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Old 03-05-2010, 08:50 PM   #1951
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Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
The Shimo is the same car, but with the components you would probably upgrade to in the original build. One thing is different however; Kyosho has come up with new new designed shockies, and this would hopefully fix the matter of all the leaking shockies that is usually a feature of Kyosho. The Shimo also has universal rear driveshafts; something that I wouldn't have upgraded to if I had built a standard RRR, but there are probably different opinions about this. I would stay with the old dogbones at the rear though.

All in all; the Shimo is just an upgraded RRR.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

I have an evo 2 wc it has universals in the rear. I've never had one of my shocks leak on my evo or evo 2
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:31 PM   #1952
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Lars or others...

Does the Shimo come standard with the softest springs (light blue) or the middle blue?

On the exploded diagram of the Shimo it shows the light blue code, but in the manual it shows the medium blue.
Our Shimo came with 1.6 mm light blue springs; identical to MTX4 standard springs. But you're right; the parts list in the manual show blue 1.7 mm springs.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:51 PM   #1953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
The Shimo is the same car, but with the components you would probably upgrade to in the original build. One thing is different however; Kyosho has come up with new new designed shockies, and this would hopefully fix the matter of all the leaking shockies that is usually a feature of Kyosho. The Shimo also has universal rear driveshafts; something that I wouldn't have upgraded to if I had built a standard RRR, but there are probably different opinions about this. I would stay with the old dogbones at the rear though.

All in all; the Shimo is just an upgraded RRR.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
My shocks never leak.

Novarossi: I actually checked.. My Shimo came with Lt Blue springs
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:36 AM   #1954
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Look here for a great deal....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...s-o-penty.html

email, [email protected] or contact through pm
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:43 AM   #1955
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Default Leaky Shocks

A few years back I had the first gen RRR wc edition and my shocks never leaked either . Too bad it was stolen or I'd still be running it!
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:48 AM   #1956
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I apreciated a lot EVO2
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:27 PM   #1957
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Look here for a great deal....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...s-o-penty.html

email, [email protected] or contact through pm
Complete parts list with package:

3 Racing Parts:
1. V3R-014 Front Graphite Upper bumper
2. V3R-014A Front Graphite Upper bumper (silver)
3. V3R 023 Rear graphite Shock Tower
4. V3R-010 Titanium Turnbuckle Set
5. V3R-030 Side Stiffener
6. V3R-027 Graphite Battery Base Holder
7. V3R 020 Rear Bulkhead Cover (aluminum)
8. V3R-035 Titanium Suspension Pin Set
9. V1E-012A Titanium Front Bulkhead Shaft
10. V3R-013 Front Graphite Shock Stay
11. V3R-007 Front bulkhead Cover (aluminum)
12. V3R-009 Titanium Flange Ball 5.8 (8 piece set)
13. V3R-026 Radio Tray Middle Mount (aluminum)
14. V3R-025 Aluminum Pulley (23 teeth)
15. V3R-011 Delrin Screw Cap 10mm (8 piece set)
16. V3R-036 Titanium Flange Ball 6.8mm (4 piece set)
17. V3R-008 Titanium Ball stud 4.8mm (9 piece set)
19. KV-016 One Way Supr Gear Hub

Kyosho Parts List

1. VZ222-600 frt lwr suspension shaft X 2
2. VS031-300 linkage set
3. FM360-800 2nd shoe set X 2
4. VZ084S-1300 Front stabilizer set (soft)
5. W0143-450 Aluminum Coller X 2
6. FmW11-1700 Clutch Shoe Red
7. VZ234-700 Drive Belt 180 X 3
8. VZ233-900 Drive Belt 384
9. VZ232-700 Drive Belt 189
10. VZ237-1000 Drive Belt 387 (for 24 tooth pulley)
11. VZ114-56-750 2nd Spur Gear 56T
12. VZ115-20-500 1st gear 20T
13. VZ217-1.4-300 Rear stabilizer bar (1.4mm)
14. VZ012-900 Diff gear set (aluminum)
15. VZ221-400 5mm post (2 piece set)
16. Z210-700 Rear suspension arm set X 3
17. VZ201-600 Front knuckle arm X 2
18. VZ209-600 Rear Bulkhead X 3
19. VZ220-300 Brake disk X 2
20. W5106-450 Shock equalizer parts X 2
21. 92985-400 Hard brake pads X 2
22. VZ217-2.0-300 Rear stabilizer bar (2.0mm)
23. FMW10-1200 clutch shoe grey
24. VZ214-17-500 1st gear 17T
25. BS107-550 Bevel shaft
26. VZ116-28 2nd gear 28T
27. W6007-400 Shock diaphragm (white/8 pcs)
28. VZ217-1.8-300 Rear stabilizer bar 1.8mm
29. FM359-1300 1st housing (aluminimum with one-way bearing)
30. VZ113-60-400 1st spur gear 60T
31. LA43-300 5.8mm Ball End
32. VZ206-600 Front suspension arm set X 3
33. W0142-450 Aluminum coller (2mm)
34. VZ095-600 3D clutch disk
36. VZ201-1-600 Front knuckle arms 1 deg kingpin X 2
37. VZ201-2-600 Front knuckle arms 2 deg kingpin X 2
38. W5107 o-ring set (shocks) X 3
39. VZ091-1200 3D Clutch weights
40. VZ205-600 Front bulkhead X 2
41. VZ213-800 small part set
42. VZ202-600 rear hubs X 2
43. w6006-400 hc diaphragm (black/8 pcs)
44. VZ29-300 Brake shaft set (aluminum) X 2
45. 92696-300 brake pad set X 2
46. VZW052-1500 Carbon Front shock stay
47. FM328-2-600 Washers (M3X12mm)
48. VZ114-55-750 2nd spur gear 55T
49. VZ079-600 front cup joint (for one-way)
50. VZ087-300 muffler stays
51. VZ113-59-400 1st spur gear 59T X 2
52. 920150-01-300 sponge packing for fuel tank
53. VZ213-1200 light weight clutch bell
54. VZ217-2.3-300 rear stabilizer bar 2.3mm
55. V-One front urethane foam bumper

Open Parts Bags / Misc. Items

1. Adjustable blade front sway bar
2. used drive shaft rear X 2 (one broken but drive shaft ok)
3. complete light weight 3D clutch assembly gears mounted for quick change
4. misc. screws/bit/ bolts
5. misc. pulleys (plastic and aluminum)
6. standard clutch bell
7. used fuel tank

Anything with a "X 2" or "X 3" behind the item means there are either 2 or 3 bags. Plus you are getting the RTR V1RRR that is race proven with servos and a CRF WASP engine as well as an X5 back up engine and RD logix pipe. All in all.....one hell of a deal.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:49 PM   #1958
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relly nice car
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:02 AM   #1959
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Guys,

how important do you consider a tire truer ? So far have been running with tires out of the box, but I know it's not optimal. A truer is a must for the best performance ?
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:55 AM   #1960
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Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Guys,

how important do you consider a tire truer ? So far have been running with tires out of the box, but I know it's not optimal. A truer is a must for the best performance ?
Ideally, yes. Ever notice that your rears wear faster than your fronts? You really don't want your rears smaller than your fronts for a number of reasons. Overdrive, rollout and split are three terms you want to become very familiar with.

Here are some threads on the subject:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...main-runs.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...it-theory.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...ive-split.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...es-1-10-a.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...re-truing.html

And here is a great article on how to true tires:

http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=25&page=4

Here is a gear ratio calculator that you'll need as well, but you need to modify the numbers for the RRR, as this is for a 720:

http://nitrokb.netne.net/720/front%2...rive%20720.xls

I'm sure you'll have more questions. The above is just a start.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:23 AM   #1961
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Allright, thank you very much. I just bought a truer (3Racing).

Will learn this stuff.

Many thanks again!!
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:10 PM   #1962
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Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Allright, thank you very much. I just bought a truer (3Racing).

Will learn this stuff.

Many thanks again!!
Good choice; you bought yourself a great tire truer. The automatic 3Racing tire truer even allows you to cone the tires if you should want to.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:51 PM   #1963
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Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
Good choice; you bought yourself a great tire truer. The automatic 3Racing tire truer even allows you to cone the tires if you should want to.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
1 degree all around is a great starting point if your setup already puts camber in them, it sort of pre-cambers the tire for the race.
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:42 PM   #1964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Ideally, yes. Ever notice that your rears wear faster than your fronts? You really don't want your rears smaller than your fronts for a number of reasons. Overdrive, rollout and split are three terms you want to become very familiar with.

Here are some threads on the subject:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...main-runs.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...it-theory.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...ive-split.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...es-1-10-a.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...re-truing.html

And here is a great article on how to true tires:

http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=25&page=4

Here is a gear ratio calculator that you'll need as well, but you need to modify the numbers for the RRR, as this is for a 720:

http://nitrokb.netne.net/720/front%2...rive%20720.xls

I'm sure you'll have more questions. The above is just a start.

Hope this helps.
This will probably confuse the issue, but the Shimo actually has a lower front rollout than rear according to my calculations. All other belt driven cars that I have done this to has a higher front rollout; both 1/8th and 1/10th scale. The calculator that I use can be downloaded from http://chickentrading.com/viewtopic....593&p=765#p765 .

It is unfortunately a requirement to register before it can be accessed; sorry about that.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:50 PM   #1965
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This moment still is easy to drive & fast GP car !
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