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Old 11-03-2009, 11:56 PM   #1696
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i just looke dat the evo2 manual and it uses dogbones :S

so all i need is the cups - VZ013
and evo 2 bones - VS023
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:31 AM   #1697
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yeah, and evo2 WC uses rear universals
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:28 AM   #1698
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Yep, you can use either the axles and dogbones, or the universals.
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:39 AM   #1699
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ta, ill order them

rrr cups - VZ013
evo 2 bones - VS023

OR

evo2 cvds, VSW006

i dont get how it will let me run 0 offset?

are the cups 2mm longer? or the bones longer? which pushes them out a extra 2mm?


thanks.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:12 AM   #1700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
ta, ill order them

rrr cups - VZ013
evo 2 bones - VS023

OR

evo2 cvds, VSW006

i dont get how it will let me run 0 offset?

are the cups 2mm longer? or the bones longer? which pushes them out a extra 2mm?


thanks.

The dogbones are 2mm longer. You unscrew the pillow balls 2mm and you will have to lengthen the camber links. Basically all you are doing is making the rear of the car wider, so you put wheels on that don't stick out as far.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:24 AM   #1701
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thanks mate.

dunno if i should get cvds or dogbones.. dogbones ($6), cups (6$) - $12 total or cvds, which are $35..

anything else i need to convert? screws? shims?
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:11 AM   #1702
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just did a search.. can either get part VSW007 - which driveshaft are 2mm longer

or use a 2mm washer/shim between the hex and wheel.
The difference between the washer and the dogbone is that your roll center changes if you unscrew the pivot balls. Kyosho released a new set of rear uprights that made it an even bigger change, They must have done it for a reason.

I run 2mm and 0mm depending on the track and day. I think the 2mm's give the car a more planted feel and the 0mm's give the car more rotation.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:35 PM   #1703
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Default Team Solar 4mm Kyosho V-One RRR chassis

Team Solar have been in contact to tell us about their new special 4mm chassis plate for the Kyosho V-One RRR 1/10th scale car. Made from US 4mm 7075-T6 aluminium it has been strategically CNC machined to lower the centre of gravity while retaining stiffness in the appropriate areas and then hard anodized for extra durability. Also fits the Kyosho V-One SR.

I saw this article on red-rc. They have them for sale on Ebay. I bought one! It's counter sunk so the CG will remain low but will give you that added stiffness. Could be a good tuning variation.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:06 PM   #1704
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The difference between the washer and the dogbone is that your roll center changes if you unscrew the pivot balls. Kyosho released a new set of rear uprights that made it an even bigger change, They must have done it for a reason.

I run 2mm and 0mm depending on the track and day. I think the 2mm's give the car a more planted feel and the 0mm's give the car more rotation.
What new rear upright?
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:21 AM   #1705
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cant see a difference either :S

only difference i can see is the dogbone/cvds and the pillow screws (different part number).. but im guessing i can use the ones i already got?

ill be getting the dogbones ($6 for bones, $6 for cups).. comapred to $35.. after searching the thread.. alot of people are saying dogbones are better than cvds..

is there any other beneficial upgrade while im at it?

im still running the laydown throttle servo.. thinking of changing the top plate to the evo (since the bottom is the same), but i might aswell do it all at once and convert it to a evo.2 instead
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:26 AM   #1706
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What new rear upright?
No.VZ262

New rear hub moves the fulcrum of the 9mm balls 2mm further out. Also ideal for use on the RRR EVO2.
*Spare part for V-ONE SR

Released on Kyoshos new products website back in May

So is that saying that the balls are 2mm farther in the hub, making the car a total of 4mm wider or is that to say that these negate the 2mm difference? I haven't seen these for sale anywhere except hongkong so I haven't tried them yet.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:28 AM   #1707
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cant see a difference either :S

only difference i can see is the dogbone/cvds and the pillow screws (different part number).. but im guessing i can use the ones i already got?

ill be getting the dogbones ($6 for bones, $6 for cups).. comapred to $35.. after searching the thread.. alot of people are saying dogbones are better than cvds..

is there any other beneficial upgrade while im at it?

im still running the laydown throttle servo.. thinking of changing the top plate to the evo (since the bottom is the same), but i might aswell do it all at once and convert it to a evo.2 instead
Get the cup, and the evo2 (fw05 dogbones I believe) bones and then get the evo bones for another $6. Then you can use both 2mm and 0mm tires with little expense. I use both depending on which I like while I'm testing at a track.

the top deck changed, but it really didn't change enough for the amount of money they want for it. it does compliment the evo2 chassis well though because they both have more flex in the front.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:46 AM   #1708
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what would happen if i run 0mm tires on the 196mm rear (without the evo2 bones?

handle like shit?
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:12 AM   #1709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
what would happen if i run 0mm tires on the 196mm rear (without the evo2 bones?

handle like shit?
Run 196mm frt 199mm rear the dogbones in the rear help free up the rear.With 0 offsets.Whats up Scott you coming my way for the US open right.Its Bobby Watson.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:57 AM   #1710
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Default 2d clutch

hey Scott, when you run the four weights, what spring do you use and whats your setting for it Thanks Peter
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