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Old 09-12-2009, 01:46 PM   #1561
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the ti 2 speed shaft has been known to cause a lot of gremlins that people can't explain, they go away from it and all is well. some can run one for years.


locman, you're engine isn't tuned properly or your linkage is getting caught. be sure to run a return spring, that will help the carb shut from WOT and help you stay safe.

you could be looking at an air leak as well, usually a rich idling engine will rev up high if it goes lean from an air leak because of the tank, pressure line or various other things.
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Old 09-13-2009, 02:25 PM   #1562
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guys i had never any problems witht he mesh, what i did on mine was to shim the 2 speed clutch as there was to much play so that could b the issue even though i can't really understand why.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:25 PM   #1563
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Default Stripped 2nd spur again!

Ok Guys, now i've tried everything....

New chassis, new bulkheads, new bearing including clutch bell bearings, new 2 speed, new one-way, new spurs, new alu pinions, used older version 2 speed shaft, mesh was set as tight as possible without binding the gears (spinning freely, no clicking).....yet I stipped 2nd spur again.

Now I'm out of ideas, the only left to try is to mesh the gears tight enough so that they are clicking (noisy). I tried this out after the race for 15 mins and nothing broke, but boy the gears were noisy and everyone at the track are highly advising me against keeping the gears so tight as they feel the gears will melt.

Appreciate any further ideas from anyone.

Thanks!
Mike
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:37 PM   #1564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Ok Guys, now i've tried everything....

New chassis, new bulkheads, new bearing including clutch bell bearings, new 2 speed, new one-way, new spurs, new alu pinions, used older version 2 speed shaft, mesh was set as tight as possible without binding the gears (spinning freely, no clicking).....yet I stipped 2nd spur again.

Now I'm out of ideas, the only left to try is to mesh the gears tight enough so that they are clicking (noisy). I tried this out after the race for 15 mins and nothing broke, but boy the gears were noisy and everyone at the track are highly advising me against keeping the gears so tight as they feel the gears will melt.

Appreciate any further ideas from anyone.

Thanks!
Mike
I dont run this car but does the 2speed have the straight adjustment screws that push the shoes closer to the bell for smoother shifting?
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:47 PM   #1565
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I dont run this car but does the 2speed have the straight adjustment screws that push the shoes closer to the bell for smoother shifting?
It has two setcrews for this adjustment, if I understand your question correctly + it has two hex crews to adjust when it will engage.

Thx
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:55 PM   #1566
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Quote:
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It has two setcrews for this adjustment, if I understand your question correctly + it has two hex crews to adjust when it will engage.

Thx
I think he is speaking of the 2 set screws that go straight in and push on balls that push on the shaft, when you tighten these in you will see a gap grow between the clutch shoes. you will want to open the shoes so there is as little space between the clutch shoes and the clutch bell, this will make your shift smoother and thus keep the gear safe.

Sean
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:58 PM   #1567
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Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Ok Guys, now i've tried everything....

New chassis, new bulkheads, new bearing including clutch bell bearings, new 2 speed, new one-way, new spurs, new alu pinions, used older version 2 speed shaft, mesh was set as tight as possible without binding the gears (spinning freely, no clicking).....yet I stipped 2nd spur again.

Now I'm out of ideas, the only left to try is to mesh the gears tight enough so that they are clicking (noisy). I tried this out after the race for 15 mins and nothing broke, but boy the gears were noisy and everyone at the track are highly advising me against keeping the gears so tight as they feel the gears will melt.

Appreciate any further ideas from anyone.

Thanks!
Mike

my mesh binds slightly with new gears, it spins but it is noisy at first. they will wear in, you almost can't see a gap in my gears. sounds like you are close to the fine line of too little and too much.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:34 PM   #1568
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my mesh binds slightly with new gears, it spins but it is noisy at first. they will wear in, you almost can't see a gap in my gears. sounds like you are close to the fine line of too little and too much.
Im with Brian,

You need to make sure there is no gap between the spurs and pinions.... It is a time consuming procedure to get right when you are first learning.

You need to mesh the 2nd gear mesh first with no 1st gear spur on. Once this is set then put the 1`st gear spur back on and check the mesh of first. Lots of trial and error and you will have the gears tight but without binding and without making too much nice.

I feel your pain and went through the exact same thing you are. I changed everything including cars and had the same issue until i learnt to mesh the gears right.

Make sure your engine is straight in the car also and not at an angle. Are you using the 1 peice engine mount? It might help make meshing easier.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:53 PM   #1569
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I have heard of people stripping gears from having too much throw in their throttle servo pulling the engine.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:57 PM   #1570
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I have heard of people stripping gears from having too much throw in their throttle servo pulling the engine.


This is a very good point, if the end point is not set right the servo will be pulling on the engine and thus messing the mesh.

Good post!
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:26 PM   #1571
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Im with Brian,

You need to make sure there is no gap between the spurs and pinions.... It is a time consuming procedure to get right when you are first learning.

You need to mesh the 2nd gear mesh first with no 1st gear spur on. Once this is set then put the 1`st gear spur back on and check the mesh of first. Lots of trial and error and you will have the gears tight but without binding and without making too much nice.

I feel your pain and went through the exact same thing you are. I changed everything including cars and had the same issue until i learnt to mesh the gears right.

Make sure your engine is straight in the car also and not at an angle. Are you using the 1 peice engine mount? It might help make meshing easier.
Yes, i'm using the kyosho one-piece engine mount. I must admit though, in order to get the mesh tighter, I feel that I have to try to angle the engine, otherwise, the mesh is too large. Next race, i'll try to run with noisy/tight gear mesh as I've done in practice and i'll see if it'll last.. it is my last resort.

The end point adjustment on throttle servo is perfect, the engine does not move, there is no flex in chassis.

It is possible that my 2 speed is engaging too fierce due to large gap between the 2 speed and the spur, I'll have to double check this...
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:30 PM   #1572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Yes, i'm using the kyosho one-piece engine mount. I must admit though, in order to get the mesh tighter, I feel that I have to try to angle the engine, otherwise, the mesh is too large. Next race, i'll try to run with noisy/tight gear mesh as I've done in practice and i'll see if it'll last.. it is my last resort.

The end point adjustment on throttle servo is perfect, the engine does not move, there is no flex in chassis.

It is possible that my 2 speed is engaging too fierce due to large gap between the 2 speed and the spur, I'll have to double check this...
Did you mention you are running the bad ass JP Eagle which is a crazy power house engine!!!
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:58 AM   #1573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Ok Guys, now i've tried everything....

New chassis, new bulkheads, new bearing including clutch bell bearings, new 2 speed, new one-way, new spurs, new alu pinions, used older version 2 speed shaft, mesh was set as tight as possible without binding the gears (spinning freely, no clicking).....yet I stipped 2nd spur again.

Now I'm out of ideas, the only left to try is to mesh the gears tight enough so that they are clicking (noisy). I tried this out after the race for 15 mins and nothing broke, but boy the gears were noisy and everyone at the track are highly advising me against keeping the gears so tight as they feel the gears will melt.

Appreciate any further ideas from anyone.

Thanks!
Mike
Check your motor mount it might be bent. I saw one like that at the nationals from one of the racers. Also, what gears are you running? It was explained to me to keep the gear ratio equal between the first and second. For example: 16/61 22/55=77. 17/60 22/55=77 Along with all the other stuff that has been mentioned about this topic. I've ran the same gears for muliply races.
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:29 AM   #1574
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Default Shock Oil

I've reached the point on my car that I think it's time for a complete pull down and rebuild. I have some questions about:

  1. Shock oil
    1. How do the weights match up to electric touring car shock oil weights. IE is 200 in kyosho speak 20 weight in team losi shock oil?
  2. Diff oil
    1. What is the best method of cleaning diff oil out of the diffs,
    2. should i clean the diff oil out of the diffs?
  3. Bearings
    1. What is the best practice for bearings? Should i lube them?
  4. When should i change my 2speed clutch shoes?
  5. When should i change my clutch bell?
Thanks in advance .
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:01 AM   #1575
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
I've reached the point on my car that I think it's time for a complete pull down and rebuild. I have some questions about:

  1. Shock oil
    1. How do the weights match up to electric touring car shock oil weights. IE is 200 in kyosho speak 20 weight in team losi shock oil?
  2. Diff oil
    1. What is the best method of cleaning diff oil out of the diffs,
    2. should i clean the diff oil out of the diffs?
  3. Bearings
    1. What is the best practice for bearings? Should i lube them?
  4. When should i change my 2speed clutch shoes?
  5. When should i change my clutch bell?
Thanks in advance .
Tory, I beleive you might be correct with the shock oil comparison. I would suggest going 600 kyosho oil front and rear. For the diffs I normaly just take a clean rage to it and wipe all the old grease out then refill. I recommend going with 20k kyosho for a good starting weight. For bearings I would clean with some type of nitro cleaner then relube with bearing oil. If the bearing doesn't spin freely after cleaning I would replace. Try to make this a after every race ritual. I clean bearings after every race. They've lasted me a whole season, plus! With the 2-speed if its starts being inconsistant repalce it. I recommend always having a new spare one built and ready in case it starts to malfunction. If you just think its time for a new one then replace everything to be sure it's good. Same thing with the clutch as with the bearing. You should check after each race. Clean the bearings and check the shoe and spring. I normaly wipe the bell down and check to see if there is a residue glaze from the shoe. This will cause the clutch to slip. Also, check the shoe for excessive wear. Compare to a new shoe if looks real worn change it. Hope this helps!
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