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Old 09-10-2009, 06:29 PM   #1546
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maybe the copper one will be better for low traction tracks?
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:30 PM   #1547
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maybe the copper one will be better for low traction tracks?
maybe?
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:46 PM   #1548
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i am telling that because it will be leave some flex in the main chassis.
what do you believe?
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:19 PM   #1549
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
Which one do you need a square one or the pin one? I have a box going to AU early next week i can stick in there for you.
hey its the square one, but thats alright, i dont need it in a hurry i was just after a part number because i knew it wasnt a standard kit part and couldnt find it in manual.

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hey mate the part number is fm511 you get 3 pulleys they come from the evolva hope that helps
thanks, yes that is the pulley i need, now i know what to get for a replacement.


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In my combined Evo I cut off rear top deck mount like on pics, add some o-ring between plate and tank. Tank should NOT touch main chassis, if need more place,
just a little cut off some material from VZ211.

hmm might have to try this as just put my lipo in and there is a good 10-15mm of clearance above it, and wouldn't mind dropping the CG.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:39 PM   #1550
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
i am telling that because it will be leave some flex in the main chassis.
what do you believe?
I would think it might add a touch of flex as copper is much softer than brass.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:18 PM   #1551
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Originally Posted by mcsquish View Post
Mike Here is everything I checked:
-replaced the plastic chassis brace (I replaced it with an aluminum one)
-make sure you aren't using too long of a screw in the rear chassis brace. You will think it's tight, but it may be hitting the bearing.
-make sure the motor is not moving. Again using too long of a screw will cause issues.
-replace the clutch bearings. It may be a bad bearing causing the clutch bell to move away from the spur.
-make sure there isn't too much slop in the 2-speed. It may be shifting so hard that it is causing the issue.
-I had issues with using the Kyosho TI 2-speed shaft (others have not) with it flexing. I now run the YBSlow, it is made from good quality Titanium.
-replace the rear bulkheads, the bearings that the 2-speed shaft over time can open up the plastic and have a little movement.
-I set my mesh tighter than I used to. I set it with just the 2nd gear on and just loose enough it isn't grinding (the gears will wear in) then check it again with both spurs installed. If the mesh is too tight on 1st gear i will leave one engine screw just loose enough I can pivot the engine and loosen the mesh. I also usually will remove the pipe so I'm not fighting that.

It ended up being that I needed to replace the rear bulkheads. The first time I replaced them I didn't have any new ones and got a set of "lightly" used ones from a friend (big mistake). The 2-speed shaft bearings had opened the holes just a tiny bit to allow movement.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need other ideas, I know this was a very frustrating problem.
OK Guys. here's the story:

Appreciate all the advice, what I've done:
1) I changed the rear bulkheads, however, I investigated the old bulkheads are there is no evidence of slop, none that I can see anyway.
2) engine mount screws are good, not too long, have had that problem before.
3) One-way bearing is new, so no problems there.
4) I'm not running in my engine, not too rich at all.
5) changed the main 2 speed shaft and the 2 speed, no slop noted
6) clutch bell bearing are good, spin freely and no evidence of wear.
7) put new pinions and spurs...oouufff
8) chassis? don't want to have to change that...no evidence of tweak
7) chassis brace? why should I change to aluminum? more rigidity? don't have one.

I have a feeling that I improperly installed the 2 speed shaft (main shaft), there are set screws for the brake hub and 2 speed holder, there was a little play (left/right) movement with the spurs, perhaps this is the reason? and oh ya, as I was busting gears, I had to re-tighten the 2 speed holder...never happened before, don't know what could have caused the holder to get loose all the time, perhaps the play between the spurs?

Has anyone else ever installed the main shaft with a little play between the spurs?

Thanks Guys!
Looking forward to your responses...
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:23 PM   #1552
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for everyone that use the km upper plate with the nt1 tank.does it worth it?does it make any difference in the car?i want a honest answer.
not something:i have hear that,i have hear the other.

and something more.there is room to mount the servo like the rrr?
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:34 PM   #1553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
OK Guys. here's the story:

Appreciate all the advice, what I've done:
1) I changed the rear bulkheads, however, I investigated the old bulkheads are there is no evidence of slop, none that I can see anyway.
2) engine mount screws are good, not too long, have had that problem before.
3) One-way bearing is new, so no problems there.
4) I'm not running in my engine, not too rich at all.
5) changed the main 2 speed shaft and the 2 speed, no slop noted
6) clutch bell bearing are good, spin freely and no evidence of wear.
7) put new pinions and spurs...oouufff
8) chassis? don't want to have to change that...no evidence of tweak
7) chassis brace? why should I change to aluminum? more rigidity? don't have one.

I have a feeling that I improperly installed the 2 speed shaft (main shaft), there are set screws for the brake hub and 2 speed holder, there was a little play (left/right) movement with the spurs, perhaps this is the reason? and oh ya, as I was busting gears, I had to re-tighten the 2 speed holder...never happened before, don't know what could have caused the holder to get loose all the time, perhaps the play between the spurs?

Has anyone else ever installed the main shaft with a little play between the spurs?

Thanks Guys!
Looking forward to your responses...
Have you meshed your gears tight?

I stripped around 50 2nd gears over mulitple cars before I found the mesh was the issue.

As for the aluminium brace I dont think you need it. What you can try is counter sinking the holes in the plastic one and using countersunk screws. This will help the brace lock in to position and not allow any movement.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:39 PM   #1554
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Originally Posted by barg View Post
Have you meshed your gears tight?

I stripped around 50 2nd gears over mulitple cars before I found the mesh was the issue.

As for the aluminium brace I dont think you need it. What you can try is counter sinking the holes in the plastic one and using countersunk screws. This will help the brace lock in to position and not allow any movement.
Yes, the issue is how to find the proper mesh? From what I read here, the mesh should be as tight as possible without the gears binding. I find to put the mesh tighter, one must slightly tilt the engine on the gear side to tighten the mesh, do you guys do this? If the engine is perfectly perpendicular with the chassis, the mesh is too large.

Any advice?

Almost forgot to ask, 2ns spur gear for EVO2 (VZ114-55C)..can it be used with the older version 2 speed? or must it be used only with the new 2-speed?

Thx!
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:56 AM   #1555
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Yes! u could use the evo2 spur gear with older rrr. they are basically the same, just that the evo2 2nd spur gear has steel lining.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:49 PM   #1556
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
by correct, he means that your gear mesh should be so tight that it sounds like its binding slightly when you spin it by hand. also take 1st spur gear off and be sure that the mesh is the same on the inside 2nd gear and look down from the top to be sure they are square.

my car always has a slight binding sound when the gears are new, they will wear in but they are not actually binding because they spin freely. you will know what I mean when you try it.
If the gears click when turning, is this acceptable? or too tight? would you happen to know what are the potential drawbacks for a mesh that is too tight? can I strip this way as well?

Thx
Mike
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:50 PM   #1557
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Originally Posted by barg View Post
Have you meshed your gears tight?

I stripped around 50 2nd gears over mulitple cars before I found the mesh was the issue.

As for the aluminium brace I dont think you need it. What you can try is counter sinking the holes in the plastic one and using countersunk screws. This will help the brace lock in to position and not allow any movement.
What do you mean by tight...gears click when turning by hand?
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:13 PM   #1558
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having the mesh to tight will put stress on the drive train, which could wear out the clutch and harm the motor
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:41 PM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsquish View Post
Mike Here is everything I checked:
-replaced the plastic chassis brace (I replaced it with an aluminum one)
-make sure you aren't using too long of a screw in the rear chassis brace. You will think it's tight, but it may be hitting the bearing.
-make sure the motor is not moving. Again using too long of a screw will cause issues.
-replace the clutch bearings. It may be a bad bearing causing the clutch bell to move away from the spur.
-make sure there isn't too much slop in the 2-speed. It may be shifting so hard that it is causing the issue.
-I had issues with using the Kyosho TI 2-speed shaft (others have not) with it flexing. I now run the YBSlow, it is made from good quality Titanium.
-replace the rear bulkheads, the bearings that the 2-speed shaft over time can open up the plastic and have a little movement.
-I set my mesh tighter than I used to. I set it with just the 2nd gear on and just loose enough it isn't grinding (the gears will wear in) then check it again with both spurs installed. If the mesh is too tight on 1st gear i will leave one engine screw just loose enough I can pivot the engine and loosen the mesh. I also usually will remove the pipe so I'm not fighting that.

It ended up being that I needed to replace the rear bulkheads. The first time I replaced them I didn't have any new ones and got a set of "lightly" used ones from a friend (big mistake). The 2-speed shaft bearings had opened the holes just a tiny bit to allow movement.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need other ideas, I know this was a very frustrating problem.
Hey Mcsquish!
Can you expand on the problems you were having with the Kyosho TI 2 speed shaft? Were you busting 2nd gear spurs? Perhaps this is my problem, you can't be the only one with the problem..perhaps I should go back to the original RRR 2 speed shaft with pinholes....what do you think? is the older version shaft more rigid?
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:51 AM   #1560
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first thank u again for your help but i do not want to b a pain but the wheels still well not turn unless i punch the throttle then it moves but if i give it a little r half throttle noting all so it cuts off some times when its idling and one minute its a smooth idle then it rams high like i gave it gas then it goes back to smooth i have finished my motor break in is there something i am doing wrong but i can say she do sound good
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