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Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2

Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2

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Old 09-10-2009, 04:46 AM
  #1531  
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
hey adrian

look at the pic, all i did was take off the receiver with the two screws and cover the whole lot with the ballon, and putting a few holes in for the ariel and screws.
hey thanks for specially taking a pic of it.. now i have a better idea of it
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:12 AM
  #1532  
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Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Guys!

Who can help me out!!!
I've been busting 2nd spur gears like crazy...what's the secret to meshing?
Instructions stipulate to use paper between the gears for correct meshing, but it seems that you have to have the pinion and spur as tight as possible to ensure that they don't strip.

It is weird, as one ensures that the meshing is extremely tight, they bind, which could cause many other problems.

Does anyone have any experience with this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Mike Havlena

Mike Here is everything I checked:
-replaced the plastic chassis brace (I replaced it with an aluminum one)
-make sure you aren't using too long of a screw in the rear chassis brace. You will think it's tight, but it may be hitting the bearing.
-make sure the motor is not moving. Again using too long of a screw will cause issues.
-replace the clutch bearings. It may be a bad bearing causing the clutch bell to move away from the spur.
-make sure there isn't too much slop in the 2-speed. It may be shifting so hard that it is causing the issue.
-I had issues with using the Kyosho TI 2-speed shaft (others have not) with it flexing. I now run the YBSlow, it is made from good quality Titanium.
-replace the rear bulkheads, the bearings that the 2-speed shaft over time can open up the plastic and have a little movement.
-I set my mesh tighter than I used to. I set it with just the 2nd gear on and just loose enough it isn't grinding (the gears will wear in) then check it again with both spurs installed. If the mesh is too tight on 1st gear i will leave one engine screw just loose enough I can pivot the engine and loosen the mesh. I also usually will remove the pipe so I'm not fighting that.

It ended up being that I needed to replace the rear bulkheads. The first time I replaced them I didn't have any new ones and got a set of "lightly" used ones from a friend (big mistake). The 2-speed shaft bearings had opened the holes just a tiny bit to allow movement.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need other ideas, I know this was a very frustrating problem.
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:23 AM
  #1533  
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mcsquish, its amazing how such a little thing can cause so many annoying problems.

does anyone one where i can get a replacement pulley, its for the upgraded alu brace that goes on the end of the large belt motor end, pulley has the square holder rather than the pin.

thanks
Brad
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:31 AM
  #1534  
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hey mate the part number is fm511 you get 3 pulleys they come from the evolva hope that helps
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:26 AM
  #1535  
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Guys anybody tried the KM Racing V-one RRR EVO II upper desk for low CG http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...efcb876c933603 also do you need other parts for this?
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:54 AM
  #1536  
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
mcsquish, its amazing how such a little thing can cause so many annoying problems.

does anyone one where i can get a replacement pulley, its for the upgraded alu brace that goes on the end of the large belt motor end, pulley has the square holder rather than the pin.

thanks
Brad
Which one do you need a square one or the pin one? I have a box going to AU early next week i can stick in there for you.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Guys anybody tried the KM Racing V-one RRR EVO II upper desk for low CG http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...efcb876c933603 also do you need other parts for this?
Hi!

IMHO there is nothing for low CG then two small o-ring ;-)
It should provide more flex then stock top deck.

In my combined Evo I cut off rear top deck mount like on pics, add some o-ring between plate and tank. Tank should NOT touch main chassis, if need more place,
just a little cut off some material from VZ211.



Regards!
m.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-rear_vz211_mod.jpg  
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

IMHO there is nothing for low CG then two small o-ring ;-)
It should provide more flex then stock top deck.

In my combined Evo I cut off rear top deck mount like on pics, add some o-ring between plate and tank. Tank should NOT touch main chassis, if need more place,
just a little cut off some material from VZ211.



Regards!
m.
I did this about 1.5 years ago when I went to a lipo battery. I lowered my tank about 2mm and if I was a bit more motivated to do a bit of grinding on the chassis I could get another few mm's.
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:04 PM
  #1539  
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
You can take two of the stock 2.5mm and glue them together to go to 5mm. I have been running a double tower like that for 2.5yrs without breaking it....yet.
thanks Scott.i have see it in some fhotos.it's a good idea.what glue do you used?ca?
and last,did you noticed any difference in the rear traction?
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
thanks Scott.i have see it in some fhotos.it's a good idea.what glue do you used?ca?
and last,did you noticed any difference in the rear traction?
I did this from day one so I can't compare to running the thinner rear tower. I used a glue called E6000 that comes in a tube. It is available in the USA at Home Depot. I put the glue on and then used a vice to hold them together while the glue dried overnight.
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Guys anybody tried the KM Racing V-one RRR EVO II upper desk for low CG http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...efcb876c933603 also do you need other parts for this?
i have the km top deck, its pretty nice.. you need the xray tank
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
I did this about 1.5 years ago when I went to a lipo battery. I lowered my tank about 2mm and if I was a bit more motivated to do a bit of grinding on the chassis I could get another few mm's.
Here comes the dremel

I have a LiPo ready for operation which i guess its lighter, by the way would it really aid the few mm, thinking about it it should as the tank filled up is quite heavy.

Will check it out

So the KM is needed just to be able to fit an XRay tank ?? What so special about Xray tanks ???
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Here comes the dremel

I have a LiPo ready for operation which i guess its lighter, by the way would it really aid the few mm, thinking about it it should as the tank filled up is quite heavy.

Will check it out

So the KM is needed just to be able to fit an XRay tank ?? What so special about Xray tanks ???
AFter you do all this, don't forget the YBSLOW brass battery tray.

http://www.ybslowinc.com/products.php?category=2
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:15 PM
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yes you can buy that ybslow tray,
but km has their own.for 15$.
just be careful which upper deck you will chose.
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
yes you can buy that ybslow tray,
but km has their own.for 15$.
just be careful which upper deck you will chose.
Copper is quite soft, but brass is a much stronger metal as well as much higher in resistance to corrosion.
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