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Old 09-01-2009, 01:32 PM   #1486
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LAM3SAUCE, so far the only things I have of the evo2 on my pre-evo2 is the chassis (didn't have much choice in that upgrade if you know what I mean.....) wich I think gives a noticable addition in steering. I do have some of the new 2nd spurs, but haven't put one on yet. Other than that I am running a "mutt" (some orginal through evo2 parts). One addition I just added was the Ybslow two speed shaft, and HOLY CRAP is it light! I haven't done any real running yet to see if I start blowing gears like we do with other TI shafts, but I don't think I will and I'll be testing it at the Nats as soon as I get out of work........
My car has v-one-s parts on it. I don't believe anything except the chassis was a "real" upgrade for the new car but if your bearings and plastics are dogged out and you don't have to spend a ton of money.. its not a bad idea to have a new kit.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:26 PM   #1487
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ThankYou guys, so its the new evo2 chassis i am going for! one more thing!!
so as i wanted to know but now i managed to get the head nub thingy off the cylinder to see how many shims i have!, i see 2 shims currently in my engine right now, ive been running 20%!... now if i want to run 30% how many shims TOTAL do i need to put onto my engine! sorry for this question popping up again but today i FINALLY got it off , well let me know guys, ThankYou!
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:08 AM   #1488
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1, normal for split
2, softer will generate more roll which will generate traction, you can stand the rears up to make them slightly stiffer. roll center is more important, move the rear lower pins down for more bite and the front uppers down for more bite.
3, I use 500 or 600cst only, cold, dusty, double section on the straight, whatever
4, you need more camber, i true my tires with 1 degree negative to start and allow them to wear that way, each tire has different settings but i am in the 2 degree front area and 3.5+ in the rear. try to get the tires cut with a 2mm split, it's important not to run them from the box.
5, caster all the way forward will give you the best turn-in (shims in back) so that should be the best for a tight track.
So if i understood you well re shocks / roll center, when you said "move the rear lower pins down" are you refering to the hinge pins in the lower rear arms?
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:31 AM   #1489
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he is referring that you can lower roll center position out of the 4 available ones that it has in the rear, and yes it would be where the pins are.
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:47 AM   #1490
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Great will try it out!

Re 2D Clutch i felt that its not quite good for a tight technical track since it needs the engine to get spooled quite high, should i install another 2 shoes and convert it to a 4D or shall i buy a better clutch?

What do you recommend?

Thanks
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:33 AM   #1491
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im using currently the kyosho clutch that came with the kits, the one with the blue flywheel, but with a lightweight clutch bell, and i couldn't be any happier with that. works really well when tuned right

theres a lot of new ufo type designs and others which i have seen but havent really tested, so can't comment on them.
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:41 PM   #1492
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Default rrr evo wc

ok guys need help can not figure out how to get this engine together stuck at the 3d clutch set up when i put it together if i titan it up the clutch bell well not spin freely so all the stuff i got was used also this is my first time doing a pilot shaft and this tip of sat up

all so i was wondering if any one have extra parts r know were i can get all the screws for this car if someone has the screws are exteriors the would like to sell pm me ,got 3 cars on a good deal but the guy could not find the screw kits help
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Old 09-03-2009, 07:54 PM   #1493
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Originally Posted by locman40 View Post
ok guys need help can not figure out how to get this engine together stuck at the 3d clutch set up when i put it together if i titan it up the clutch bell well not spin freely so all the stuff i got was used also this is my first time doing a pilot shaft and this tip of sat up

all so i was wondering if any one have extra parts r know were i can get all the screws for this car if someone has the screws are exteriors the would like to sell pm me ,got 3 cars on a good deal but the guy could not find the screw kits help
if i'm correct u need a couple of shims under the clutch bell for it to spin freely that should help..
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:04 AM   #1494
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Default Trueing Kyosho tires or my evo wc!?

I have Kyosho's tires in my evo wc! i am wondering what degree and etc... i should true my tires too?! please give a good dimension that is compatible with the car! i am sorry i dont know much about truing tires but i was told i need to!
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Old 09-05-2009, 05:52 AM   #1495
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Originally Posted by LAM3SAUCE View Post
I have Kyosho's tires in my evo wc! i am wondering what degree and etc... i should true my tires too?! please give a good dimension that is compatible with the car! i am sorry i dont know much about truing tires but i was told i need to!
Which track are you going to run the car at?
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Old 09-05-2009, 02:46 PM   #1496
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Which track are you going to run the car at?
haha hey scott as you know it crystal park!!
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:35 PM   #1497
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Originally Posted by LAM3SAUCE View Post
haha hey scott as you know it crystal park!!
For Crystal Park true your rears down to 62mm and your fronts to 60mm. This is a big larger than what you would want for racing, but the car will work fairly well and the tires will last a bit longer as long as you don't hit anything that chunks them.
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:54 PM   #1498
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having a bit of trouble,

on my local track(asphalt, tight, low traction) im struggling to get or keep the rear planted, im running

Front

2 deg camber
-1 deg toe out
soft sway bar
locked diff (spool)
droop -1 with droop gauge
3rd roll center position
suspension bottom position
standard spring
500 weight oil
198mm


Rear
3 deg camber
3 deg toe in
diff oil could be 50,000 not sure.
no sway bar
droop 3 or 4 with droop gauge
suspension bottom position
3rd roll center position
standard spring
500 weight oil
200mm

any advice would be great.
oh and i am running a lola body.

thanks

Brad
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:10 PM   #1499
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
having a bit of trouble,

on my local track(asphalt, tight, low traction) im struggling to get or keep the rear planted, im running

Front

2 deg camber
-1 deg toe out
soft sway bar
locked diff (spool)
droop -1 with droop gauge
3rd roll center position
suspension bottom position
standard spring
500 weight oil
198mm


Rear
3 deg camber
3 deg toe in
diff oil could be 50,000 not sure.
no sway bar
droop 3 or 4 with droop gauge
suspension bottom position
3rd roll center position
standard spring
500 weight oil
200mm

any advice would be great.
oh and i am running a lola body.

thanks

Brad
go down to 10,000 in the rear diff. If that doesn't help continue to bring your rear roll center down one position at a time. Also widen your front out to 199mm. That should help you out.
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Old 09-07-2009, 07:44 PM   #1500
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go down to 10,000 in the rear diff. If that doesn't help continue to bring your rear roll center down one position at a time. Also widen your front out to 199mm. That should help you out.
agreed, 10k in the rear is a starting point for extremely low traction surfaces. this weekend at nationals in toledo I started at 30k, went up to 50k and back to 30k because it made the car easier to drive and didn't seem to improve the lap times although everything made the car stuck with that much traction.

also, in regards to the head shim question. nobody really uses 30% but if you want to, the rule of thumb is about 0.65mm of deck height, this must be measured from the top of the piston at TDC to the top of the head button. the best way to do this is to take some solder that is bigger than 0.65, and then bend it in a slight L shape only like 5mm will do, stick it in and then rotate the engine through the cycle and then pull it out and measure how crushed the solder got. each engine will be different though, if 20% is working well for you now, you can most likely put one more 0.20mm shim and it may be fine if you are too lazy to measure it.
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