not getting started on the right foot with this hobby.....
#1
not getting started on the right foot with this hobby.....
hey guys you all have helped me get this thing back together but today was the STARTING DAY......beautiful day here in Cincy. about 60 degrees went outside and put the ignitor on hit the bump box and nothing.....ok.......put a little fuel in the carb directly......starts .....idles high then dies.......thought maybe Id flooded it with the fuel in the carb.......took out the glow plug the I thought lets shake the excess out so I hit the bump box to expell some fuel.......IM AN IDIOT! RIGHT IN THE EYES! ......PACNIC......screaming ......trying to get my way to the sink as thoughts of being blind shook my soul!
Anyhow.....finally my composure regained.......Ive put it away for today.
How can I completely start over on my slide carb tuning I dont know if the guy I bought it from ever had it tuned right and I need a bench mark to start.......my god I wish I would have gone electric at this point but Im sure the nitro will be great once it gets running proper.........
I SO WISH I COULD GET TOGETHER WITH SOMEONE LOCALLY TO HELP GUIDE ME!
Anyhow.....finally my composure regained.......Ive put it away for today.
How can I completely start over on my slide carb tuning I dont know if the guy I bought it from ever had it tuned right and I need a bench mark to start.......my god I wish I would have gone electric at this point but Im sure the nitro will be great once it gets running proper.........
I SO WISH I COULD GET TOGETHER WITH SOMEONE LOCALLY TO HELP GUIDE ME!
#3
you know Ive thought of that and I dont want to seem rude, or stupid but everytime Ive gone in there they are vague with any questions I have and ALWAYS want to sell me more stuff......Its like I know you have to stay in business but CMON......a nice shiny blue shaft would look sweet but I DONT NEED IT! So for now I dont give them much credit, at least in the helping me department.
#4
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I found this article and have saved it for my refresher...might help.
By the way, I figured I was the only one that took a shot to the face thankful for glasses in my case.
Here is a quick summary of an article by Josh Cyrul on tuning nitro engines for racing. It involves 3 basic steps: 1) Clearing the engine, 2) tuning the bottom end, and 3) tuning the top end.
I. Clearing the Engine
These 4 steps will clear the engine of debris in preparation for race tuning.
Raise idle to 1/4 turn. This will help prevent engine from stalling. This is the idle screw and not the low-end needle.
Get engine temperature up to 150 degrees.
Richen top end by a full turn.
Holding carburetor wide open, continue richening top end until engine nearly stalls. This flushes out dirt, residue, or after-run oil from the carb and engine.
II. Begin Tuning the Bottom End
First tune the bottom end.
Listen to the idle.
If idle slows and engine stalls, lean out the bottom-end needle.
But if the idle speeds up, richen out the bottom-end needle.
Set engine to idle for at least 1 minute before engines starts to stall.
Once idle is consistent for 1 minute, lower idle screw setting as much as possible until engine stalls. Then open up idle screw setting by 1/8 of a turn.
Engine should now idle consistently for at least 45+ seconds.
III. Begin Tuning the Top End
Open to full throttle for no more than 2-3 seconds, then return to idle.
Listen to engine and lean it out (top-end needle) until you hear a nice clean sound.
Open the carb to full throttle for 2-3 seconds.
Close the carb for 2-3 seconds.
Open the carb to full throttle for 2-3 seconds.
Engine should rev nice and clean during steps 3 to 5. If engine hesitates, it is too lean. If lean, richen the top-end needle.
By the way, I figured I was the only one that took a shot to the face thankful for glasses in my case.
Here is a quick summary of an article by Josh Cyrul on tuning nitro engines for racing. It involves 3 basic steps: 1) Clearing the engine, 2) tuning the bottom end, and 3) tuning the top end.
I. Clearing the Engine
These 4 steps will clear the engine of debris in preparation for race tuning.
Raise idle to 1/4 turn. This will help prevent engine from stalling. This is the idle screw and not the low-end needle.
Get engine temperature up to 150 degrees.
Richen top end by a full turn.
Holding carburetor wide open, continue richening top end until engine nearly stalls. This flushes out dirt, residue, or after-run oil from the carb and engine.
II. Begin Tuning the Bottom End
First tune the bottom end.
Listen to the idle.
If idle slows and engine stalls, lean out the bottom-end needle.
But if the idle speeds up, richen out the bottom-end needle.
Set engine to idle for at least 1 minute before engines starts to stall.
Once idle is consistent for 1 minute, lower idle screw setting as much as possible until engine stalls. Then open up idle screw setting by 1/8 of a turn.
Engine should now idle consistently for at least 45+ seconds.
III. Begin Tuning the Top End
Open to full throttle for no more than 2-3 seconds, then return to idle.
Listen to engine and lean it out (top-end needle) until you hear a nice clean sound.
Open the carb to full throttle for 2-3 seconds.
Close the carb for 2-3 seconds.
Open the carb to full throttle for 2-3 seconds.
Engine should rev nice and clean during steps 3 to 5. If engine hesitates, it is too lean. If lean, richen the top-end needle.
#5
hey guys you all have helped me get this thing back together but today was the STARTING DAY......beautiful day here in Cincy. about 60 degrees went outside and put the ignitor on hit the bump box and nothing.....ok.......put a little fuel in the carb directly......starts .....idles high then dies.......thought maybe Id flooded it with the fuel in the carb.......took out the glow plug the I thought lets shake the excess out so I hit the bump box to expell some fuel.......IM AN IDIOT! RIGHT IN THE EYES! ......PACNIC......screaming ......trying to get my way to the sink as thoughts of being blind shook my soul!
Anyhow.....finally my composure regained.......Ive put it away for today.
How can I completely start over on my slide carb tuning I dont know if the guy I bought it from ever had it tuned right and I need a bench mark to start.......my god I wish I would have gone electric at this point but Im sure the nitro will be great once it gets running proper.........
I SO WISH I COULD GET TOGETHER WITH SOMEONE LOCALLY TO HELP GUIDE ME!
Anyhow.....finally my composure regained.......Ive put it away for today.
How can I completely start over on my slide carb tuning I dont know if the guy I bought it from ever had it tuned right and I need a bench mark to start.......my god I wish I would have gone electric at this point but Im sure the nitro will be great once it gets running proper.........
I SO WISH I COULD GET TOGETHER WITH SOMEONE LOCALLY TO HELP GUIDE ME!
#6
Car is Nitro TC3 and Engine is OS Max .12 TZ with rear exhaust......I think rear exhaust. but the manifold is facing the FRONT of the car......I found the manual for this engine and carb online and it says all of the factory settings except the throttle stop screw. Thanks again you guys your some real help!
#8
My first day starting up the engine I thought I had flooded it as well. All the articles written about engine starting make you think that that is a common occurance. Actually I've never seen a flooded engine.
Stick to the basics: Fuel, Spark.
For the fuel, I use a method that some people warn you against but it works for me. I push on the engine with my right hand (no booster attached) and I cover the exhaust opening with my left hand. While doing this you can usually see the air bubbles clearing out of your fuel line. Do this just for a few seconds.
For the spark, I attach a booster plug that has a visual guage on top so I can see that battery is not dead nor is the plug wire broken. I typically start the engine with the radio off and manually twist the throttle servo. If you are old enough to have started a non-fuel injected 1:1 car then you know by touch the right throttle position to get the engine to catch.
Don't give up! Once you feel the revs and hear the engine sing you'll forget about the battery with wheels.
Stick to the basics: Fuel, Spark.
For the fuel, I use a method that some people warn you against but it works for me. I push on the engine with my right hand (no booster attached) and I cover the exhaust opening with my left hand. While doing this you can usually see the air bubbles clearing out of your fuel line. Do this just for a few seconds.
For the spark, I attach a booster plug that has a visual guage on top so I can see that battery is not dead nor is the plug wire broken. I typically start the engine with the radio off and manually twist the throttle servo. If you are old enough to have started a non-fuel injected 1:1 car then you know by touch the right throttle position to get the engine to catch.
Don't give up! Once you feel the revs and hear the engine sing you'll forget about the battery with wheels.
#9
Suspended
you know Ive thought of that and I dont want to seem rude, or stupid but everytime Ive gone in there they are vague with any questions I have and ALWAYS want to sell me more stuff......Its like I know you have to stay in business but CMON......a nice shiny blue shaft would look sweet but I DONT NEED IT! So for now I dont give them much credit, at least in the helping me department.
Honestly, (I'm not saying I totally agree with it, but it's the way all businesses work, even the hobby biz) since you bought the car used (or somewhere else) realistically they don't owe you much in the way of helping - especially since you didn't buy, and you're not buying. All they're possibly selling you now is some fuel, and that doesn't keep them in business or pay for the time it takes to answer your questions. Whereas if you'd bought your car from them, one way or another, they'd be obligated to help you sort your problems and answer your questions.
Not trying to pick on you here, but I'm trying to give you food for thought on what the hobby shop guys are thinking and why they might not act the friendliest.
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
http://www.tsrcar.com/
Check out the location and stop by on Test & Tune. Someone there can help get you up and running. I believe Test & Tune day is Saturday, April 12th.
Check out the location and stop by on Test & Tune. Someone there can help get you up and running. I believe Test & Tune day is Saturday, April 12th.
#11
Actually RocketRob I HAVE SPENT close to $250 at the store on RADIO, STARTER BOX, GLOW PLUG, ignitors, Bodies, paint, tape.....the list goes on.....anyway I dont wanna sound like a crybaby on the hobby stores and that is totally NOT WHAT the thread was started for. I have found the manual on towerhobbies website on how the engine comes STOCK. (again online) I just feel that if we are going to get NEW people into the hobby they need some guidance, and if the local stores are not apt to give good advice, therefore allowing you to RUN the car, IN TURN BREAKING PARTS, they would be better off......And actually I have found an AWESOME SHOP even more locally that I seem to click with pretty well so MY business will go there.
I am 30 years old and maybe Im a bit old for the hobby, but I know when I talk to this guy at the auto parts store as in 1/1 Cars and I need performance parts or replacement parts he gives me accurate details as to what I NEED to get it goin. All I would LOVE TO SEE is a local hobby shop take a nite and give NEWBIES ADVISE, tuning help, letting us know which hop ups are junk and which are almost necessity.
Im a Mortgage Broker by trade and I do what is called a FIRST TIME HOMEBUYER SEMINAR. I go in give a 1 hour presentation with a realtor and leave the OPTION open to fill out an application with my company. DO I CLOSE EVERYONE that attends? NO, DO I CLOSE 10%, sometimes. But the ones I do close KEEP THE LIGHTS ON AND KEEP THEM COMING BACK FOR REFIS, etc.
I just feel this is an EXCELLENT marketing opportunity for the LHS.
As far as MY LOCAL CLUB, I LOVE THIS IDEA AND HOPE THAT I CAN ATTEND a test and tune AS WELL AS GET INVOLVED IN THE CLUB.
I am 30 years old and maybe Im a bit old for the hobby, but I know when I talk to this guy at the auto parts store as in 1/1 Cars and I need performance parts or replacement parts he gives me accurate details as to what I NEED to get it goin. All I would LOVE TO SEE is a local hobby shop take a nite and give NEWBIES ADVISE, tuning help, letting us know which hop ups are junk and which are almost necessity.
Im a Mortgage Broker by trade and I do what is called a FIRST TIME HOMEBUYER SEMINAR. I go in give a 1 hour presentation with a realtor and leave the OPTION open to fill out an application with my company. DO I CLOSE EVERYONE that attends? NO, DO I CLOSE 10%, sometimes. But the ones I do close KEEP THE LIGHTS ON AND KEEP THEM COMING BACK FOR REFIS, etc.
I just feel this is an EXCELLENT marketing opportunity for the LHS.
As far as MY LOCAL CLUB, I LOVE THIS IDEA AND HOPE THAT I CAN ATTEND a test and tune AS WELL AS GET INVOLVED IN THE CLUB.
#12
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Going to the loac club race will do you a ton of good. Most likely, there will be someone there to give you a hand, especially if they see you're new. I'm sure someone there has run a TC3 at some point and may be able to get you some pointers. Just be a little patient. As mentioned, once you do get it running, you'll be addicted. Oh, and don't worry about nearly blinding yourself. I saw a seasoned racer do the same thing trying to help me get my motor broken in last year, so it can happen to the best of us!
As for the whole hobby shop thing, that is a whole different topic that's been covered (and will be covered) a few times. I'm glad my shop is a bit more helpful.
As for the whole hobby shop thing, that is a whole different topic that's been covered (and will be covered) a few times. I'm glad my shop is a bit more helpful.
#13
that is true, no one start with the right foot on this hobby, I remember when I started in 2001 with a HPI RS3 RTR, I purchase every upgrade, transmission, pipe and header, suspenssion,everithing to turn the car on a Racer 2 , installed all and start the brake in jajaja it won't start and I was 2 days checking tha problem was the carnb needle close complete. Tak time to check the car and hang in the hobby stores, go to the local racing events to see what's giong on that the way I learn the little I know, dont give up
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Starter box on your first car? I thought it was required to get a pull start and enjoy the pain of the blisters trying to break it in? Oh, and don't worry about the fuel in your eye, that will only happen once. Many might not say it, but I think it's a right of passage into the hobby or something. Not that I ever did that, no sir, i'm way too smart to do that.
Oh yeah, and my first car was a HPI RS4 RTR and it was a piece of junk. I put a 2-speed on it and it was still a turtle. Ah, the good ole' days...
On a serious note, don't give up. I had tons of problems with my RS4 and I was ready to throw it in the trash and walk away. But, I bought a used NTC3 from a friend and after that, I was hooked. Once you get it running and get used to driving it, make a few laps on a track without hitting anything, you will love it. I got no help from the local hobby shops, the only help I got was at the track and a very patient friend.
Oh yeah, and my first car was a HPI RS4 RTR and it was a piece of junk. I put a 2-speed on it and it was still a turtle. Ah, the good ole' days...
On a serious note, don't give up. I had tons of problems with my RS4 and I was ready to throw it in the trash and walk away. But, I bought a used NTC3 from a friend and after that, I was hooked. Once you get it running and get used to driving it, make a few laps on a track without hitting anything, you will love it. I got no help from the local hobby shops, the only help I got was at the track and a very patient friend.