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Old 02-25-2008, 09:09 AM   #16
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no i am running the gold springs though
From what i've seen and heard, gold springs + drilling the shoe to make it lighter makes one hell of a difference. If you check out the setup sheets of all the associated racers, you'll see all of them has done this.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:55 AM   #17
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From what i've seen and heard, gold springs + drilling the shoe to make it lighter makes one hell of a difference. If you check out the setup sheets of all the associated racers, you'll see all of them has done this.
i will give that a shot today after i clean the car up from yesterday

anybody have anyidea on hole size?
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:13 PM   #18
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i will give that a shot today after i clean the car up from yesterday

anybody have anyidea on hole size?
I remember 2 different sizes for the different amount of weight you wanted to remove. If I can find the thread, i'll post it.
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:15 PM   #19
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I remember 2 different sizes for the different amount of weight you wanted to remove. If I can find the thread, i'll post it.
please do i tried looking but came up with nothing
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:18 PM   #20
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please do i tried looking but came up with nothing

here's the quote:
Start by keeping what you have, I'm not sure how big of a differance the 3-shoe would make over the 2-shoe, especially if your going to go to aluminum shoes. Drill your teflon shoes and see how you like them. I started by putting a 3/32 hole thru the big end of each shoe, then progressed to a 1/8 hole, then added another 3/32 hole between the 1/8 hole and the hole for the flywheel pin. I was very happy with the performance of these super light shoes with copper springs. Keep in mind that I had a very light drivetrain, all of the FT parts (LW clutch bellhsg/LW 2-spd bellhsg/LW 2-speed 1-way), plus the TiR shafts.
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:31 PM   #21
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thanks just drilled the holes gonna give in a test run in a little while
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:36 PM   #22
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thanks just drilled the holes gonna give in a test run in a little while
Let me know how it works out, i've been planning to do this, but i'm waiting on parts to get in before i start tearing the car down.
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:17 PM   #23
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much better i was having trouble yesterday getting out of the hole in the corners but from what i can tell the engine is nice and spooled now when it kicks in
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:38 PM   #24
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glad it helped you out...i'm just waiting on parts now.
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:00 PM   #25
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anybody know where to find a 3 shoe clutch for a ntc3
Found this, hope this helps.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=7697
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:04 AM   #26
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If anyone could help would be appreciated. I am lookin for a replacement clutch for the NTC3 to replace the stock clutch. I have been lookin all over. Haven't found anything yet. After talkin to the guys at my local track. It seems the biggest weakness on stock NTC3 is the clutch. Also any other tips for setting it up for racein will help. Already got the list of parts I need to convert it to NPstart. And foam wheels. Just have to research about wheels.

Thx in advance for the help.
You can use the K-Factory UFO version 1 push clutch that's designed for the TM G4S... Then use the clutch bell that K-Factory makes for the NTC3 or you can use the old push/centax clutch that K-Factory makes for the car ... All things are possible if you try hard enough... Here's some links that will help you and everyone that has the NTC3 that wants to upgrade to a better clutch and better performance.

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1215&pageNum=2
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/prolis...09190223-83962

The last link has 8 pages of hop-ups for the NTC3 and most are much better then stock... Hope the info and links help...

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