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Old 11-20-2008, 10:36 PM   #91
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The .18 should be the outlaw class for this scale. I think there would only be a slight increase in wear using a .18 instead of a .12
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:55 AM   #92
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If one of us older guys that still have our old 235mm car (Serpent/Mugen) wanted to run, would we be allowed to run in this class?
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:01 AM   #93
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I wouldn't know for sure how to answer that, but after what the one Father/son team did at the nationals with thier attitude, I would say NO!

But that is my oppinion.

They made such an issue about the car that those that had the 220mm cars couldn't run it without adding so much weight. At that point, I would say that the cars could not be considered "equal" on the track.

Keep the 220mm cars with a .12 3 or 5 port and a wieght of 1725grams. That way, if someone with a sedan wants to run in the class with a 5 port, let them. Lets not start adding larger engines, as much fun as that seems, keep the cost down for the time being. If the class does explode, and some want to "step it up", by all means, go for it then, but if the class is going to get off the ground, lets not "tinker" with it just yet. again, just my oppinion

The 235 class, what happened to it? Why?
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:19 AM   #94
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You usually can get a OS TZ .18 for less money than you can a roar legal .12 And with the money you save you can have it modified to farther enhance your car performance. And with all the restrictions put on the 220mm so it could run against the 235mm cars I feel that the 220mm cars should have their own seperate class.
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:25 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz View Post
I wouldn't know for sure how to answer that, but after what the one Father/son team did at the nationals with thier attitude, I would say NO!

But that is my oppinion.

They made such an issue about the car that those that had the 220mm cars couldn't run it without adding so much weight. At that point, I would say that the cars could not be considered "equal" on the track.

Keep the 220mm cars with a .12 3 or 5 port and a wieght of 1725grams. That way, if someone with a sedan wants to run in the class with a 5 port, let them. Lets not start adding larger engines, as much fun as that seems, keep the cost down for the time being. If the class does explode, and some want to "step it up", by all means, go for it then, but if the class is going to get off the ground, lets not "tinker" with it just yet. again, just my oppinion

The 235 class, what happened to it? Why?
To answer your question about 235mm, it was a triple edged sword. First, the class became a "money war" with engines, hop up parts, and custom-made parts to make the cars lighter and faster. Second, when the prices of 1/8th scale cars dropped a few years ago due to the increasing competition from company's like Powerracing, 235mm 4wd cars were more expensive than running 1/8th scale, so many just switched. Third, when many made the switch, ROAR decided to kill the class due to ever decreasing racers of the class (and some of the 1/8th scale members of said governing body wanting to do away with the class anyway). It was a fun class in both 2wd and 4wd versions (yes, there were two separate classes, touring car for 2wd and lola body for 4wd) and was just a tad more expense than touring car and way less expensive than 1/8th scale before the "money war".

As far as running the two together, it was done before when the 200mm outlaw class came about. Yes, you could run your touring car with a Lola body with the 235mm 4wd Lola bodies cars. The outlaw 200mm had to maintain the 1725g min weight rule and 235mm had to maintain their minimum weight rule. So, you did not have to add weight to the 200mm car. However, you were allowed to run a 5-port .12 with the 200mm due to 235mm 4wd were allowed to run 3-port to 7-port .15 engines. The no adding weight and allowing 5-ports to the 200mm was to equalize the playing field for the 5-port to 7-port engines for the bigger car. And, with equal drivers, it was still competitive. However, when you have a Josh Cyrul/Ralph Burch-type driving the outlaw 200mm against the 235mm, it was no contest, the outlaw 200mm wins.
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Old 11-24-2008, 02:59 PM   #96
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Interesting. But isn't the 220mm going to have an advantage against a 200mm outlaw by virtue of the wider tires front and rear? There's no way to make that equal, as there aren't that many 5 port .12s and a good 3 port would beat it, especially in a 220mm.

With the rules now, you end up with 3 different cars running outlaw (200mm, 220mm, 235mm) without a real way to level the playing field if any and/or all of them show up for a race. Unless you do away with one of the cars (and you could argue that 235mm is dead anyway), it becomes a matter of weight to level the field.

No matter how you cut it, getting the class to grow is going to be a challenge. You could get 1/8 drivers to switch, but that's a big outlay of cash for a new car, motor, pipe, etc if all they ran was 1/8 (and yes they could sell their stuff and recoup some of the cost, but still). You also lose a 1/8 driver at your local race. A 1/10 driver could simply get the conversion kit and run, even if it meant adding weight, for much less, but again, you lose a 1/10 driver at the local race. Now, if you have a lot of racers, it's not a problem. But, if you have 20 racers, 8 want to run 1/10, 5 want to run 220mm, and 7 want to run 1/8, you have a problem.
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:55 PM   #97
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I would love to see this class take off!! I bought the knack conversion for my mugen and hope i can bring some interest to it at the track i race at. This class reminds me of 1/12th scale electric. They run the same motors as 1/10th scale electric but on a better handling car with faster corner speeds..
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:26 AM   #98
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I got to race my Mtx4r with 220mm kit fitted for the first time yesterday and was pleasantly surprised with the amount of speed that could be generated through the corners & sweepers!!!
We only had 3 with the 220mm kit so we entered in with the 1/8ths!
Well, weren't the 1/8th drivers surprised when our little 220mm MTX4s were quicker everywhere but the main straight, and there wasn't a huge difference there either!!!
With a bit of tweaking these things will be even faster!
I found that starting with the tourer setup, even though it had too much steering, the car was easy to drive fast once i got used to the change.
Best thing is the 220mm is very forgiving if you make an error or give it too much gas.
One comment from a friend of mine who had a drive, was to say that the tourer should have been 220mm from the very beginning!!!!
After my first race day with it and finishing 4th in the 1/8th class, i have to agree!!!!!
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:07 AM   #99
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New KNACK Front body post plate arrived !

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?man...sort=2a&page=2
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:46 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b View Post
I got to race my Mtx4r with 220mm kit fitted for the first time yesterday and was pleasantly surprised with the amount of speed that could be generated through the corners & sweepers!!!
We only had 3 with the 220mm kit so we entered in with the 1/8ths!
Well, weren't the 1/8th drivers surprised when our little 220mm MTX4s were quicker everywhere but the main straight, and there wasn't a huge difference there either!!!
With a bit of tweaking these things will be even faster!
I found that starting with the tourer setup, even though it had too much steering, the car was easy to drive fast once i got used to the change.
Best thing is the 220mm is very forgiving if you make an error or give it too much gas.
One comment from a friend of mine who had a drive, was to say that the tourer should have been 220mm from the very beginning!!!!
After my first race day with it and finishing 4th in the 1/8th class, i have to agree!!!!!
That sounds great!!I have mine just about ready but have to wait a couple months for the weather to get better...

Quick question for you. What is the screw on the back for? It limits something. The reason i ask is because if i push the car down it pops out of the slot and then gets stuck. Did i build it wrong or something?

Also, what are the hubs for? rear or front?
thanks
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:20 PM   #101
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I don't know what the HUBS are for, I didn't get those in my kit I guess, but the screw that rides in the slot in the rear is for tuning. Depending on where you set it, it will help or hurt the turning going into the corner.

When I ran mine at Ft. Myers during the Nationals, the car was planted and very fast. From the timing line to the end of the back straight, it was full throttle, all the way! I would like to see this class grow here in Florida, but who knows. I have my kit with tires for sale, but if someone else gets one in the area that wants to race, I will be hanging onto it.
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:55 AM   #102
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I think it's a great idea myself. I don't care about classes or rules or roar or what any other sanctioning body has to say. I just want something new for my friends and family to try without breaking the bank. I live with enough rules and governing bodies as it is. Obviously the number of guys who just wanna have fun with their cars vastly outnumbers the track racers, so maybe this is the group the manufacturer is targeting? I don't have an onroad track within 100miles of me, so parking lots have to do, and anything we can do to make them more fun (faster) is allowed. Besides all that, why is it called outlaw class if there are still so many rules? I never understood that concept...So for those that want monster power without spending 1/2agrand+ on a .12, throw in that 200$ 18tz, throw on the wide tires, and GO GO GO!
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:04 AM   #103
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Mine is only the building away, NT1 with a lot of extras, well I got a little carried away with Knack, weight savings etc

Futaba LP servo's etc, and finaly decided to save some money and get a big bang so have ordered the 18TZ and the Speed L60 pipe kit.

Can't wait to have it all done
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:52 PM   #104
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who sells the bodies to fit the 220mm chassis?
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:55 PM   #105
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who sells the bodies to fit the 220mm chassis?
I do! here: http://kamikazercracing.com/proddeta...=KNACKLOLABODY
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