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Old 11-18-2008, 06:36 PM   #76
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I built the car and ran it. I realy enjoyed it too, but I was the only one that ran it around here. I think people got a little scared when they see how fast it was. At Ft. Myers I had it FLYING around the track, and it was very fun and easy to drive. I thought that If I built it, others would too...

If you are looking for one, for an NT1 with a pile of tires,, check out the for sale section......
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:15 AM   #77
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Default Knack

I converted my nt1 with the Knack kit = sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet but watch the screws and threads in the rear uprights

Does anyone know if someone else than Zac/Kawahara has tires coming out?

I think this is what 1:10 needs, cool and super fast with same driving style as 1:8 which has become waaaay to expensive for me now with two kids.
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:25 AM   #78
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[QUOTE=Gerner;5068853]
Does anyone know if someone else than Zac/Kawahara has tires coming out?
QUOTE]
GQ make the tires too
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:23 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz View Post
I built the car and ran it. I realy enjoyed it too, but I was the only one that ran it around here. I think people got a little scared when they see how fast it was. At Ft. Myers I had it FLYING around the track, and it was very fun and easy to drive. I thought that If I built it, others would too...

If you are looking for one, for an NT1 with a pile of tires,, check out the for sale section......
.................Try running it Outlaw with a modified .18 OS TZ talk about fast!!!
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Old 11-20-2008, 10:13 AM   #80
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Default DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-20-2008, 10:19 AM   #81
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Madbeats you have 2 nice looking cars!! Which one has the .18 in it?? And do you have any pictures of the cars with the bodies on?? I had my OS TZ .18 in a R-40 at first even with wide tires it was very twitchy!! But when I put it in my new V-1RRR with the K-factory conversion to 220mm the car was not only fast but handled too.
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Old 11-20-2008, 10:29 AM   #82
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Wink I dont have 18s ,only run 12s

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Originally Posted by nitrohead5300 View Post
Madbeats you have 2 nice looking cars!! Which one has the .18 in it?? And do you have any pictures of the cars with the bodies on?? I had my OS TZ .18 in a R-40 at first even with wide tires it was very twitchy!! But when I put it in my new V-1RRR with the K-factory conversion to 220mm the car was not only fast but handled too.
Sorry nitrohead
I dont have 18s ,only run 12s
As for the Bodies i await for my boy shop to hand them over.
Hopefully in the New Year...
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Old 11-20-2008, 11:46 AM   #83
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How do your cars handle?? Mine is rock solid. Man those cars look good.
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Old 11-20-2008, 12:44 PM   #84
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Has it been determined what the official minimum weight will be for this class? Will it be the 200mm weight minimum for the outlaw class, the 235mm weight minimum, or something different? Adding almost 300g would definitely make this less fun...

It will be interesting to see what direction this class goes, if it does. The sad truth of the matter is onroad on a whole seems to be in decline. Whether adding a new class will bring people in or canibalize the classes we have (1/10, 1/8, IGT) is another story.
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:10 PM   #85
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Well, I can say that with the testing that I have done, the car with the kit and body will add about 80grams of weight to the car. A wieght of 1800 grams would be perfect for the car, but to make the 2000 grams with the air resistance, you might as well forget it. That is what happened at the Nationals this year at Fort Myers. I believe I was the only one that had my car at the 2000gram weight limit running the 220mm setup and had the car flying, but I had to drop the gearing to 15/20 60/55 from 17/22 59/54 on the NT1. I tried 3 different Maxpower L engines to see which one would would be best, but it proved to me too much for a .12.


If you run a .12 engine, the wieght limit should be in my oppinion left alone at 1725. I don't think anybody will get the car to that, but if they do, more power to them. ()

I don't feel that by adding a .18 or .15 engine to the car will be helpful to the class, unless you change the fuel tank too. The class will have a hard enough time now to get up and running now, but if you do want to run a .18 engine, that might be the way to go if ROAR decided to run a 2000gram wieght limit. Will it will fit in the car?
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Old 11-20-2008, 02:33 PM   #86
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Default Front carbon

Hey Madbeats.

Where did you get the front carbon piece for the body mounts?

My Knack NT1 kit did not have it, they attach directly to the bumber.
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Old 11-20-2008, 03:41 PM   #87
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Thumbs up Front Body Mount Plate Set

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Hey Madbeats.

Where did you get the front carbon piece for the body mounts?

My Knack NT1 kit did not have it, they attach directly to the bumper.
Man I got it from the Pro-Shop Futaba.
Just email them with the part number
also provide your Name and Address so the y can calculate shipping cost.
N4210 Front Body Mount Plate Set (NT-1) 2400 yen 25 usd
Email [email protected]
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Old 11-20-2008, 03:45 PM   #88
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I think the OS 18TZ is the same small block as a .12, so I'm pretty sure that would work.

It's going to take a few rules and some tinkering if this class is going to take off, and even then there's still the issue of will it help or hurt. Let's say you keep the 2000g weight and the .12 engine like you ran at the Nats. Will it be that much faster, or will it somewhat defeat the purpose? You could run that weight and slap in the TZ, (adding a bit more cost) and you could have an option from 1/8. Do you then lose 1/8 scale racers? If you get the weight to something reasonable a .12 can pull around, do you then lose 1/10 drivers? I'm pretty sure whichever way you go, you're not going to get too many people buying kits just to run this class, so it's going to come down to people running 2 or more classes (which some do) or dropping either established class to run this.

Don't let me sound like I'm hating or anything. I've seen one run at 301 and be THIS close to TQing in the 1/8 class. They look fast and fun, and I just may pick up a kit and put it on my backup car for giggles. I even floated the idea of a spec class at the track, and the same line of reasoning I used for the class having a hard time getting started applied. I wish the class the best and may even try it, but if it comes between that and 1/10 sedan, well, you get the idea. And I'm sure a majority of your racers may face the same thing.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:49 PM   #89
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What a few people are thinking about doing here that I have talked to is drop from the 1/8th scale and run the 220mm cars because when running the 1/8th scale cars, it has a lot more cost involved with the amount of parts that the cars "eat" (wear out...belts & pullies)... that cost alone will make this class a little more appealing to those 1/8th racers and it won't be a huge cost for the 1/10th guys to enter it either. But the 1/8th guys will be at an advantage of setup knowledge with the car because you are making a mini 1/8th scale. The speed with a .12 is a little more friendly and when tire wear was up with the 1/10th and 1/8th cars, I had very little wear with the 220mm car. I bought 2 bodies and ran over 2 gallons through the car and the body is still good. Most 1/8th racers don't get that much running. The car is soo much easier to drive than the 1/10th scale sedan car and easier to recover than the 1/8th when you get it out of shape.

If I had my choice, I wouldn't ever run a sedan again if the class took off. It is just too much fun.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:52 PM   #90
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But when you put a high power/torque 18 in the car, you reintroduce the issue of wearing things out like in the 1/8th. But I would like to say that you will give the option to run the car like an 1/8th scale on more tracks that are not 1/8th friendly... It has its good points and it bad ones.
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