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Old 05-30-2008, 01:25 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by 00VIP001 View Post
Shepherd's website has some setups you can try

http://www.team-shepherd.com/en/inde...d=24&Itemid=48
thank for the info. How do you like the car out of the box?
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Old 05-30-2008, 02:16 AM   #107
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Out of the box I mainly use the standard setup, I just change oil, 500 in the front and 800 in the rear, I always use 3 of toe in the rear. I have try and in some track it works better to make some angle in the front upper wishbone, bottom in the front and up in the rear.
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:41 AM   #108
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Out of the box I mainly use the standard setup, I just change oil, 500 in the front and 800 in the rear, I always use 3 of toe in the rear. I have try and in some track it works better to make some angle in the front upper wishbone, bottom in the front and up in the rear.
yeah but it said use 4 degree of toe out in the front do you do that? thats alot I never went beyond 1.5. Just wondering is that due to no trackion and in the stats we have tracks with alot of tracktion at the big races.
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:29 AM   #109
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It all depends on the track. 4 degrees is WAYY too much. 1-2 degrees is just right. You just have to play around and see which way you're fastest around the track.

As for the car, as I said before it is pretty much easy to set up right out of the box. The only thing I found wrong is the steering linkages have too much slop right out of the box, so I swapped for mugen ones. And also the rear swaybar mount needs a little grinding so the swaybar can move freely and not bind up. Otherwise, it is a very good kit.
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:50 PM   #110
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yeah but it said use 4 degree of toe out in the front do you do that? thats alot I never went beyond 1.5. Just wondering is that due to no trackion and in the stats we have tracks with alot of tracktion at the big races.
We have never used more then 2degree's total toe out for the front end of the car. That is alot of toe out for most tracks you can run more just how the car works for you is what is important. Do not forget the tire wear as well!
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Old 06-01-2008, 11:17 AM   #111
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I just finished building my first 1/8 on-road car and I must say,what a betauty.The only thing I dislike is all the play on the steering.What steering ball cups do you guys run?I am curious if anybody has tried the Werks motors?Are they any good?I cant wait to run the car.
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Old 06-01-2008, 11:42 AM   #112
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I swapped mine for mugan linkages (the plastics.)


Jerry, do you know if anyone is going to make an aluminum middle radio deck mount to replace the plastic one???

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:45 PM   #113
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I do not know at this time. I have spoke with Shepherd and they are not sure what they want to do. The aluminum will also make the car more rigid and that may be why they are holding back. Maybe YBSlow will make one at this point. Give Brad a call and check it out. I do not know for sure anyone now though. Sorry.
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Old 06-01-2008, 11:51 PM   #114
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Hey guys I run the novarossi base motors like the jp, and 35plus I wanted to know which clutch spring are you using jp,msr,stock,orion? and how much you tight the nut, book said 1.2 also the gap?
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Old 06-02-2008, 05:40 PM   #115
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Congrats to Shepherd driver Kurt Lechel for his TQ in the 2nd leg of the Midwest Series in Chicago!
His Velox was dialed! Corner speed was very impressive.
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:57 AM   #116
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Yes great job Kurt!!! Keep up the good work buddy!!!
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:16 AM   #117
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Ron, thank you for the kind words. Jerry, no problem, thank you for everything. Couldnt do this without your help. Will fax my setup to you later today. Want to also thank IDM. Motors, tires and clutch was awesome all weekend.
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Old 06-09-2008, 07:44 AM   #118
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I am actually considering to buy, but i want to know if the front and the rear blue alloy parts' would have any "platstic options"
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Old 06-09-2008, 10:12 AM   #119
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why would you want to swap out the aluminum pieces for plastic???
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Old 06-09-2008, 05:35 PM   #120
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I just imagine if those front and rear end got hit and tweaked(they are metal alloy), replacing the alloy parts are more and constantly expensive than "plastic". And when plastic was hit hard, they were mostly broken, not deformed. When we see the plastic bulkheads broken, the car may still can run, but the alloy deformed, it affects the car runability more.
My 2 cents.
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