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Old 12-18-2007, 03:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Serpent: 1.95
Kyosho: 2.05
Xray: 2.05
MUGEN: 2.15
Magic: 2.55
so tom should try and fit a serpent drive train then?
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:00 PM   #17
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Guys when you talk gear ratios in 1:1 cars and you talk lower or taller gears the higher the number the lower the ratio is. So what that means is a 4.11:1 is a lower gear ratio to a 3.7:1. Just seeing if you arent getting confussed when you talk about lower or higher internal ratio's. The other thing that makes me wonder is when the 4 first came out i rear a review that stated it was the the fastest accelerating car on the market in this persons opinion. And the figures that were posted above would suggest that the G4 could be faster but the others would be slightly slower.

Tom when i was at the nationals in the semi there was not another car that out accelerated mine, so personlly i would just leave it alone they are quite fast enough the way they are.......not sure if the CRF is effecting you with that K word on the head!!!!
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:13 PM   #18
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Guys when you talk gear ratios in 1:1 cars and you talk lower or taller gears the higher the number the lower the ratio is. So what that means is a 4.11:1 is a lower gear ratio to a 3.7:1. Just seeing if you arent getting confussed when you talk about lower or higher internal ratio's. The other thing that makes me wonder is when the 4 first came out i rear a review that stated it was the the fastest accelerating car on the market in this persons opinion. And the figures that were posted above would suggest that the G4 could be faster but the others would be slightly slower.

Tom when i was at the nationals in the semi there was not another car that out accelerated mine, so personlly i would just leave it alone they are quite fast enough the way they are.......not sure if the CRF is effecting you with that K word on the head!!!!
I totally agree. Some people have said the MTX-4 is all accelaration and not enough top end compared to the MTX3. But personally I would leave as is and work on clutch engagement. and rotation mass. I was never keen on the punch of the CRF but it has tons of top end. But it's still a great mill

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Old 12-18-2007, 07:50 PM   #19
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I totally agree. Some people have the MTX-4 has is all accelaration and not enough top end compared to the MTX3. But personally I would leave as and work on clutch engagement. and rotation mass. I was never keen on the punch of the CRF but it has tons of top end. But it's still a great mill

yeah i have no real complaints with the 4 except the gear stripping, i only thought about this as a challenge for myself to see what else i can modify on my car
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:54 PM   #20
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I cant remember the last time i stripped a gear in my kyosho
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:13 PM   #21
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I cant remember the last time i stripped a gear in my kyosho

thats cause you have an O.S. lol J/K...

There is no prob with the mugens internal ratio It's so close that it won't be noticable plus mugen provides pinions and spurs to get the necessary final drive ratio


Another thing to consider is when you start going too small on the first pinion the wear rate increases....
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:19 PM   #22
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Engine has nothing to do with gear stripping. my os at our local track moorebank which held the 2001 worlds is as fast as any other engine there .. i just cant drive as good hehe
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:43 PM   #23
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i wonder what fukudas drive ratio was at the worlds that he won makes me wanna to say hmmm
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:46 PM   #24
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yeh that would be good to know because he had crazy bottom end and huge top speed.

There is no need to change the cars ratio, the mugen pro drivers seam to run the stock setups and you dont see them changing there parts with other manufactureres or running bling hop ups.

they make the car work stock!
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:00 PM   #25
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Hi i was wondering if any xray owners can tell me if the NT1 has the same front and rear diff bearing sizes as the MTX4?

if so, would the drivetrain from the NT1, (ie rear diff, brake disk pulley, front and rear side pullies, front oneway, as well as front side and rear belts)
fit the MTX4R?

if so this would allow the MTX4 to have the lower internal ratio the Xray has as well as a lower rotating mass due to the xrays smaller rear diff

my main concern is the bearing sizes for the diffs, are they the same as the mugen (which is 12X18)
No, NT1 front diff bearing is 10x16 while MTX4 is 12x18.

Once I try to put direct fit 12x18 bearing into NT1 front bulkhead, and the space is too big for 12x18 bearing. Perhaps if you can find thick alluminium foil ( 0.5mm thick ) to fill in the gap, then it should be okay.

ooops.... I think you want the other way around, NT1 stuffs into MTX4, right ? I think it's even worse. The belt length won't match, the rear diff length won't match, and many others don't macth items.


BTW, why you want to do that ?

Box standard MTX4 gear ratio is already tall ( high acceleration ), and NT1 owners ( in my home track ) are replacing their 2nd pinion gear 1T bigger to match MTX4 top speed.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:04 PM   #26
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yeh that would be good to know because he had crazy bottom end and huge top speed.

There is no need to change the cars ratio, the mugen pro drivers seam to run the stock setups and you dont see them changing there parts with other manufactureres or running bling hop ups.

they make the car work stock!
Must be his 3rd hidden gears j/k

Must be his engine ( ultra good, team driver only ).
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:27 PM   #27
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The rotating mass of the MTX4 is not much if any higher that the other makes of cars.

One of the biggest contributing factors to slow acceleration and "drag" on the car is drive belts.

By having the belts to tight you add a lot of drag on the drive train. It is actually surprising on how much less tension the belts can have without slipping.
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Old 12-19-2007, 03:59 AM   #28
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The rotating mass of the MTX4 is not much if any higher that the other makes of cars.

One of the biggest contributing factors to slow acceleration and "drag" on the car is drive belts.

By having the belts to tight you add a lot of drag on the drive train. It is actually surprising on how much less tension the belts can have without slipping.

so true, a fellow racers car (MRgsr's) v1RRR has a ultra smooth drive train compared to my mugen. i have rubber belts and rubber sealed bearings, whilst he has metal sheilds, it's suprising how free it is.

i might ditch this drive modification idea and just drive the car. It works fine, and handles well.
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