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Old 01-28-2008, 10:11 AM   #76
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Rich, I can not find on the ROAR web to down load the sanction paper work, where is it located to down load, please.

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Old 01-28-2008, 10:39 AM   #77
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Rich, I can not find on the ROAR web to down load the sanction paper work, where is it located to down load, please.

Billy
Billy,
Check your e-mail I sent you a pdf.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:27 PM   #78
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This question may be better asked on the main MTX-4 thread but is it a given that everyone runs an offset in tire diameters for 1/10th nitro?

I only started racing last season so I'm still somewhat new but I was just keeping all four tires the same diameter though I noticed that I had to do a lot of adjustments from the stock Mugen setup to not constantly have my rear end slide out.

Scott, are you the same Scott that has posted quite a bit on the MTX-4 thread? I saw posts from a Scott Fisher all about early experiences with the MTX-4 and they mentioned a significant offset (1.5mm or so)...
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:44 PM   #79
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Tire Diameter Split- This is not specific to the MTX-4, so please check with Mugen for the 'best' split. If you make the front tires smaller than the rears, say 59mmF/61mmR, the car will have more steering... the front tires will not engage until the rears break loose. This will make the car turn better, but on a loose track you might have a car that is difficult to drive.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:50 PM   #80
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Ahhh, OK. So if I was happy with my steering at the January Silver Bowl event then I might want to stick with equal diameters it sounds like.

Maybe in April I'll try out an offset and see how it feels but otherwise stick with what I have.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:56 PM   #81
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BTW, offset normally refers to the offset of the wheel, not the diameter. Mugen, Kyosho, and Serpent all have different offsets. Offset is where the centerline of the wheel (when viewed from behind or front) is in relation to where the wheel is mounted. If I am not mistaken, Mugen is a +1mm or +1.5mm offset (someone correct me if I am wrong), while Kyosho is +2mm offset.
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:02 PM   #82
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Oops, but you knew I was talking about diameters and your advise applied to diameter differences, right? I went back and read Scott's notes again and "split" was the word I was looking for...

EDIT: On second glance, he mentions that the 24-tooth pulley requires that you run a 2.5mm split to have zero overdrive. Doesn't that mean that if I'm using the 24-tooth pulley and I've got the same diameter tires, I'm actually getting into an underdrive/overdrive situation without even intending to?
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:24 PM   #83
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Here is my IGT in detail:

Tires: Medial Pro IAS Tarmac 60 shore front, 45 shore rear (car had a slight push)

Diffs: Front 35,000 GS Oil, Rear 5,000 GS Oil

Camber: -1 front, -2 Rear

Toe: +0.5 each side front, -2 rear toe block and -0.5 rear Fioroni Uprights

Anti-Squat: 2

Shock Position: middle hole on tower, outer hole on arms (front and rear)

Shock Piston: Fioroni dual action front and rear, groove side up

Shock Oil: 1,000 GS

Shock Springs: I used some springs I got from Taiwan…they are for Revo, they are progressive, and much stiffer than the black springs. I have been told Kyosho is making option springs. The front springs are stiffer than the rear springs, so any combo of stiff rear and stiffer front is a good start.

Rear Arm Position: inner upper hole on hub, middle hole on tower

Rear Upright position: upper hole (I think this is the normal position)

Droop: With the car sitting on 20mm blocks (Husy blocks) 7.5mm rear (measured at the lowest point of the rear uprights), 8mm front (measured at the lowest point of the front c-hubs)

Ride Height: 10mm rear (measured at the rear of the chassis), 5mm front (measured right behind the front arms)

Engine: Radical .21 Torque

Clutch: Fioroni Twin Turbo black shoes with optional stiff springs

Clutchbell gears: 15/19

Front a/b blocks: I think the front upper arm is in the lower hole on the tower and the matching position for the lower arm.

Steering plate: middle hole (I used Fioroni’s 7.5 plate)

Brakes: No pads used with Fioroni’s ferodo brake disc

Wheelbase: long, but I would have liked to have tried the short.

Sway Bars: Kyosho silver, 2.5mm thick I think F/R

Body: Aston Martin

Servos: Airtronics 358 steering, 737 throttle

My car (which I had borrowed) had the helical cut gears, which may or may not be geared for truggy. No e-clips on the car. The 2 speed is set to shift early (after it would not shift at all in the first qual).

Team VTX gold aluminum and titanium hardware throughout for weight reduction, carbon fiber side guards for weight reduction and good looks!

I made sure the drivetrain spins free and all suspension parts are bind free
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:26 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Arboleda View Post
Oops, but you knew I was talking about diameters and your advise applied to diameter differences, right? I went back and read Scott's notes again and "split" was the word I was looking for...

EDIT: On second glance, he mentions that the 24-tooth pulley requires that you run a 2.5mm split to have zero overdrive. Doesn't that mean that if I'm using the 24-tooth pulley and I've got the same diameter tires, I'm actually getting into an underdrive/overdrive situation without even intending to?
Yes I was referring to diameter.

Yes you have an underdrive situation (I think underdrive). Contact Robbie at Mugen, he'll tell you how to setup that car for Vegas.
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:18 PM   #85
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I am the same Scott that has posted quite a bit in the MTX4 forums. I raced for Mugen before I was with Kyosho. I thought the split was 2mm in order to have an even drive. Whatever I said in the forum was probably correct. I just don't remember. I do remember I normally ran a 1.5mm split which gave me a little extra on power steering. I always used the 24 tooth pulley. I only know of one guy that ran the 25 tooth pulley while racing on foam tires. The 25 tooth pulley was really made for racing on rubber tires. I also would suggest trying a front spool instead of a one-way. Especially with the level of traction the way it has been I think a spool will give you better results.

As Garen has said, Robbie can probably give you a good starting point as he is usually fast and has raced on this track several times. He was always good about that kind of stuff and I spent many phone calls with him discussing car setup when I was starting out. Let him know that if anything is different, it is only that the grip is a little bit less than he is used to. I have compensated by adding a touch more rear toe, lighter rear swaybar, lighter diff oil. I also ran the same shore tire front and rear whereas most of us normally ran harder rear tires.
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:37 PM   #86
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Thanks Scott and Garen... Your knowledge is helpful and I'll also talk to Robbie...
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Old 01-29-2008, 05:57 PM   #87
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We want to keep this class fun. We made room for this class at the last race and we welcome all of you back. We are aware that RC Pro and perhaps ROAR are working on rules, but until then, we’ll keep this as essentially a run what you brung class. We also don’t want to get into teching just yet as it will only create more problems than it will solve. Keep in mind we don’t have 20 or 30+ racers in this class yet, so let’s not argue this to death.

Therefore, we are going to keep the rules simple and basic.

Any 1/8th based buggy chassis (even the car Craig ran is ok)

Any engine .28 or smaller

Any tire

Sedan type body



This seemed to be ok at the last race, and at least for the time being, it will have to work. None of the cars at the last race were box stock, and foam tires did not seem to be an advantage. Come on out and have fun.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:32 PM   #88
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Any tire, or any rubber tire. I thought the previous rules had said any rubber tire. Please clarify that Rich.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:36 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
Any tire, or any rubber tire. I thought the previous rules had said any rubber tire. Please clarify that Rich.
ANY tire means any tire. Rubber or foam.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:51 PM   #90
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Sorry to read that.
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