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Old 06-08-2003, 03:12 PM   #1
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Default RD Logics Pipes

I am going to get an RD ligic pipe for my NTC3. What difference is thier between the Turbo version and regular version? Do i need to have a turbo motor to use the turbo pipe? Currently i have a Mugen MR12 non turbo engine.
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Old 06-08-2003, 04:10 PM   #2
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The Turbo version is "shaped" differently from the "regular" version. The turbo one is not race legal. However the Regular one is. You do not need to have a Turbo engine to run the turbo pipe.
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Old 06-08-2003, 05:55 PM   #3
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I have been running my ntc3 with the RD regular pipe and MR-12 and couldnt be happier. I easily out accelerated a Sirio (which is reputed to have the most HP out of all legal engines) on both short and long straights, and also was faster than mt-12's its varients as well as some RB's, OS's etc... also the enginge is really easy to tune with that pipe and i can 6-7 minutes a tank while almost every other car had a pit window that was around a minute shorter (the track is really fast so you use alot of throttle, thus gas as well)

just make sure you take your time installing it (dont lose any springs!) and also use a .15 big block gasket to install it, or else it will leak.

good luck! you wont be dispointed!
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Old 06-08-2003, 06:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
I have been running my ntc3 with the RD regular pipe and MR-12 and couldnt be happier. I easily out accelerated a Sirio (which is reputed to have the most HP out of all legal engines) on both short and long straights, and also was faster than mt-12's its varients as well as some RB's, OS's etc... also the enginge is really easy to tune with that pipe and i can 6-7 minutes a tank while almost every other car had a pit window that was around a minute shorter (the track is really fast so you use alot of throttle, thus gas as well)

just make sure you take your time installing it (dont lose any springs!) and also use a .15 big block gasket to install it, or else it will leak.

good luck! you wont be dispointed!
stormperson,

does it make it cooler? I have been having a hard time keeping it cool. I have been riching it out a little at a time but its making changes but VERY slowly. At one time i was at about 275 but now its around 250. i have richened it about a quarter turn.

oh, i also have an MR12 enegine. I know this varies, but how many turn do you have your high and low needle and what temp do you average when you are running?

Last edited by alucard13; 06-08-2003 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 06-08-2003, 06:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
The Turbo version is "shaped" differently from the "regular" version. The turbo one is not race legal. However the Regular one is. You do not need to have a Turbo engine to run the turbo pipe.
According to Rd Logics the turbo version IS race legal. http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_179.htm

My question is will the turbo version do me any better than the regular version? I would like to justify the extra 10 bucks.
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Old 06-08-2003, 06:51 PM   #6
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If your running on a short track and have a non modded motor, the standard pipe will be better. The Turbo pipe is Roar legal but is suited better to modded engines on large high speed tracks.
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Old 06-08-2003, 07:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcpilot
If your running on a short track and have a non modded motor, the standard pipe will be better. The Turbo pipe is Roar legal but is suited better to modded engines on large high speed tracks.
Awesome! thanx for the help
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Old 06-09-2003, 09:18 AM   #8
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alucard- I have a temp gun, howevet it never goes near my engine, i just use to check track temp so i can use the correct compound rubber tires for my electric sedan, lol.

NEVER USE TUNE AND ENGINE TO TEMP! its a really bad idea, your engine will run like crap. today's high end engines dont have to run at 200degrees. mine probalby runs around 250ish (i do a spit test every once and a while to make sure i am somewhere in the ballpark). just make sure it sounds right and preforms correctly. if you are bogging down in a certain throttle range then adust it so it doesnt. tune to preformance (this isnt a HPI FE engine, it wont mind running a little hot), if you are a little concered about wear richen the low end a little, but dont go overboard.

i have no clue what i am running for needles right now, lol. i just tune to where it works, lol.

also i might not be ROAR legal, but if you are worried about temp, cut out more stuff in the body, the entire left side of my winshield is cut out and i also cut out the driver's side window. if you want more cooling get a aftermarket big-ass engine head by crazynutracing.com or someone, however it doesnt give you and excuse to run lean, just allows you to run cooler at normal racing settings.
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Old 06-09-2003, 09:24 AM   #9
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If you want to cut more of your body out for cooling I beleive the ROAR specs are this.

1. You can have a hole in the windshield cut out but can not be nore than 2 inches in diameter.

2. Both front side windows may be cut out.

3. The back window may be compleyely cut out.

If my memory is right, these are the specs you can go by for cutting venting into your body and still be ROAR legal.

I am running the rdlogics one piece turbo pipe on my MTX 3 and ther are 2 versions, one is ROAR legal and the other is not for sedan racing. It is the size of the stinger that id different, the inner diameter that is.
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Old 06-09-2003, 10:38 AM   #10
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ya, i think those are correct, although i havent race in a ROAR nitro sedan race in some time.

however i wouldnt be too worried about temp, and i dont think too many tracks mind if your windsheild opening is larger, since opening up the back and side windows doesnt do much compaired to the front where most of the air goes through, the larger back just allows and easier and less turbulent exit.
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Old 06-09-2003, 12:06 PM   #11
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When I purchased mine, I was told that the "Turbo" version worked best with 5 port or modified 3 port engines. The "Standard" was for stock 3 port engines.

Three issues with this pipe that are really bothersome to me (I still run it because it's so much better than the AE pipes, but these 3 issues really bug me)

1. The stinger is really vunerable to bending. My stinger is now about 1/3 it's original length due to 3 separate impacts. Not hard ones, but enough to do some damage.
2. The header diameter at the exhaust gasket is too big. I use Novarossi exhaust gaskets, and the pipe does not seal correctly.
3. No matter how I mount the pipe, and how I bend the wire, the header hits the fuel tank at the outlet hole, melting the protective outer plastic shield.

I wish RD Logics would address these issues, it would make it an absolute home run if they did.

-Jeff
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Old 06-09-2003, 12:20 PM   #12
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Jeff- use a .15 big block gasket to seal it, for some reason they designed it for that instead of a normal .12. I had the same problem about the header hitting the fuel intake, however after a few race days it went away, why i dont know, but i guess it got bent slightly or something.
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Old 06-09-2003, 12:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
alucard- I have a temp gun, howevet it never goes near my engine, i just use to check track temp so i can use the correct compound rubber tires for my electric sedan, lol.

NEVER USE TUNE AND ENGINE TO TEMP! its a really bad idea, your engine will run like crap. today's high end engines dont have to run at 200degrees. mine probalby runs around 250ish (i do a spit test every once and a while to make sure i am somewhere in the ballpark). just make sure it sounds right and preforms correctly. if you are bogging down in a certain throttle range then adust it so it doesnt. tune to preformance (this isnt a HPI FE engine, it wont mind running a little hot), if you are a little concered about wear richen the low end a little, but dont go overboard.

i have no clue what i am running for needles right now, lol. i just tune to where it works, lol.

also i might not be ROAR legal, but if you are worried about temp, cut out more stuff in the body, the entire left side of my winshield is cut out and i also cut out the driver's side window. if you want more cooling get a aftermarket big-ass engine head by crazynutracing.com or someone, however it doesnt give you and excuse to run lean, just allows you to run cooler at normal racing settings.
stormperson,
thanx for the help. Someone told me that the temp guns and even the onboard temp guages can't be trusted. someone told me about the spit test and then i read somewhere that the spit test shouldn't be used. But i guess that issue can be compared to tuning. ask 20 people how to tune and you'll get 30 answers..lol! The engine runs great except for it losing RPM at full throttle then dying. i richened it out and it seemed to solve the prob, but now its back. it may be my fuel line. i have a fuel filter on it and maybe it starving for fuel at WOT. I ordered the pipe so hopefully it should be here before i leave on friday so i can get it all put together.

thanx for the tips everyone
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Old 06-09-2003, 12:37 PM   #14
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When I started 1/8 on-road 20 yrs ago both Ron Paris and Art Carbonel showed me how to tune a motor by the spit test and I`ve used it ever since. You can take 10 different temp measuring devices and no 2 will read exactly the same,but unless your on top of a mountain the spit will always be the same.
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Old 06-09-2003, 01:09 PM   #15
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Just 30 different answers? normally i get more! lol but ya, i know exactly what you mean, i am no Ron Paris or Steve ODonell, infact i am more of a carpet guy, but i can get an engine to run pretty much as well as its going to for a season. just use some common sense in tuning and as long as you are in the ballpark you should be fine.

but from your description you were probably running too lean on the top end enough to raise your temp, i had that same problem but on the middle and low end (i played with the mid end, which i shouldnt of, lol) now its fine though.
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