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Old 05-13-2010, 07:43 AM   #736
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Hey Hobo:
At 251mm the steering was out of control for my liking. I would go to 252mm and just make sure that both side are symetrical once both sides are fully assembled with knuckles etc.

You can measure from the inside chassis (where the front plate goes) hole to the outside of the pivot ball opening for the symetry on both sides. Assure that the pivot ball cups-10M screws are ar tight as possible without binding the up/down free movement of the knuckle before measuring. Keep playing with both sides lower ball only, until you reach the 252mm.

This is just my opinion.
with your track width set to 252mm what is the distance between the end of the lower control arm and the inside of the front steering knuckle in mm. For instance 5.5- 3.5mm
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Old 05-13-2010, 05:48 PM   #737
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with your track width set to 252mm what is the distance between the end of the lower control arm and the inside of the front steering knuckle in mm. For instance 5.5- 3.5mm
Does it really matter? Chances are his distance maybe different to yours.

You have to remember that the scrub set will change the width as well.
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Old 05-13-2010, 05:49 PM   #738
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Originally Posted by HoboShop View Post
with your track width set to 252mm what is the distance between the end of the lower control arm and the inside of the front steering knuckle in mm. For instance 5.5- 3.5mm
I personally wouldn't use this method of measuring the symetry of the both sides ...but ok. I am not going to get into a discussion about this with you.

Approximately 2.6mm. Remember I measure my 252mm using the Red Box Tires rim offset.

Good luck.
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Last edited by Paulie Bee; 05-14-2010 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:44 PM   #739
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Does it really matter? Chances are his distance maybe different to yours.

You have to remember that the scrub set will change the width as well.
Correct and 100% correct....

Good luck guys.

Paulie
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:03 AM   #740
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Default Evo in UK

Finally got the Evo to handle well now, doing quicker times than with my 966!!!

One question, the car was found to be well under weight at the 2nd BRCA meeting...where would anyone suggest that the extra weight is best placed, and how attached if neccesary?

If anyone wants my set-up then I'll be happy to pass it on. Used it at Mendip and Wombwell and it worked very well at both. Lowish grip 15-20c temperature.

Mike

p.s. Thanks Paulie, your assistance has been invaluable.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:27 AM   #741
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My car is a little light as well. I run the stainless battery tray and it puts me at 2560 with 73-66 redbox tires & 909 lightweight body.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:27 PM   #742
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Finally got the Evo to handle well now, doing quicker times than with my 966!!!

One question, the car was found to be well under weight at the 2nd BRCA meeting...where would anyone suggest that the extra weight is best placed, and how attached if neccesary?

If anyone wants my set-up then I'll be happy to pass it on. Used it at Mendip and Wombwell and it worked very well at both. Lowish grip 15-20c temperature.

Mike

p.s. Thanks Paulie, your assistance has been invaluable.
My pleasure. It took a few posts and p.m.'s but I'm glad you are enjoying your new ride. As traction begings to come up throughout the season contact me for more....
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:32 PM   #743
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My car is a little light as well. I run the stainless battery tray and it puts me at 2560 with 73-66 redbox tires & 909 lightweight body.
Hey Jason,
Sounds like you've got it!

Richie at Brooklyn Hobbies has different brass battery weight trays available as well for the M3 Evo.

Enjoy!

Paulie
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Last edited by Paulie Bee; 05-18-2010 at 04:11 AM.
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Old 05-18-2010, 04:21 AM   #744
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Whats up guy. I am a second year racer and need some help with my set up. My steering is extremely sensitive.I need to know how to take some of the steering out. For me the car is hard to control at high speeds. When I bump steer I tend to over do it. Can some one help me with this issue.
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:12 AM   #745
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Whats up guy. I am a second year racer and need some help with my set up. My steering is extremely sensitive.I need to know how to take some of the steering out. For me the car is hard to control at high speeds. When I bump steer I tend to over do it. Can some one help me with this issue.
Widen your front track width a bit
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:37 AM   #746
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Hey guys what do you guysthink about the sirio cl7 r (abc) onroad motor? I can get on for $399.00 w/ pipe and manifold from rcmushroom. Is it a good buy how does the performance compare to the sirio cl7t sti ( aac)? Also how does the power of the cl7r (abc) stack up aganist 35+21,flash,xl9 tq, and rb c9-c10 of the world? Can somebody that has run the cl7r (abc) chime in.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:55 PM   #747
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Widen your front track width a bit
I don't know a lot about setting this car up so some of my questions may sound stupid.
Do I do this at the pivot balls or is there another way?
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:05 PM   #748
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@ Allspeed: There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers, don't worry.
Front and rear width are set by the pivot balls, you are right.

@ Paulie, your advises have been a very good help and I am so pleased to inform you that I got a very good start of the season ending up 4th and 3rd respectively in the Nats races 1 and 2 here in Holland in the Nomac Cup, surprisingly (for myself) ending up at 1st place overall with 4 races to go ... Paulie, have you tried to mount the adjustable 07 rear stabi at the rear with the optional upper arms that are included with the kit? Actually I have ... and it works! The only doubt that I have is that the turn buckles have to be set longer and they are more under an angle. Any advise on this point?

Also I would like to air out, to those who want to hear it, and also to those who donít want to hear it , that I am so very pleased with the handling of the car, easy adjustments, and easy maintenance, I love it. As I said earlier, it is amazing that after the impressive 07, Kyosho came with this new M3 Evo platform, it is a masterpiece of engineering.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:38 PM   #749
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@ Allspeed: There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers, don't worry.
Front and rear width are set by the pivot balls, you are right.

@ Paulie, your advises have been a very good help and I am so pleased to inform you that I got a very good start of the season ending up 4th and 3rd respectively in the Nats races 1 and 2 here in Holland in the Nomac Cup, surprisingly (for myself) ending up at 1st place overall with 4 races to go ... Paulie, have you tried to mount the adjustable 07 rear stabi at the rear with the optional upper arms that are included with the kit? Actually I have ... and it works! The only doubt that I have is that the turn buckles have to be set longer and they are more under an angle. Any advise on this point?

Also I would like to air out, to those who want to hear it, and also to those who don’t want to hear it , that I am so very pleased with the handling of the car, easy adjustments, and easy maintenance, I love it. As I said earlier, it is amazing that after the impressive 07, Kyosho came with this new M3 Evo platform, it is a masterpiece of engineering.
Hello again Richard:
Glad to hear the good news. All those emails payed-off I guess. Nice job.

I have used the adjustable with both the M3 and the new Evo. My suggestion with the rear linkage is that you try not to go past 45 degrees when the car is at rest fully assembled. If you look at the profile of the car at the rear, note the angle of the rear sway bar after you've fully finished the set up including of course rear tweak. If it is more than 45 degrees then you will lose much of the efectiveness. Shorten the linkages as much as possible. There will always be some angle so don't go crazy with this. The further down the angle of the bar in relationship to the chassis the more effective the result of the intended purpose of the bar, be it adjustable or the stock fixed bar.

I'm not sure if I explained myself but I tried my best. Try it!
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Last edited by Paulie Bee; 05-18-2010 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Spelling was not not my favorite subject
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:54 PM   #750
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Originally Posted by HoboShop View Post
Hey guys what do you guysthink about the sirio cl7 r (abc) onroad motor? I can get on for $399.00 w/ pipe and manifold from rcmushroom. Is it a good buy how does the performance compare to the sirio cl7t sti ( aac)? Also how does the power of the cl7r (abc) stack up aganist 35+21,flash,xl9 tq, and rb c9-c10 of the world? Can somebody that has run the cl7r (abc) chime in.
READ YOUR PM
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