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Old 06-15-2009, 12:38 PM   #541
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thanks Rick, I was thinking of getting M3, just wanted to know what parts I can save from my older Evolva.
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Old 06-15-2009, 01:33 PM   #542
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Originally Posted by Rich Browne View Post
I enjoyed our chat. Look forward to meeting you at the RAMS

Rich
Hey likewise Rich. Too bad the RAMS schedule is a lot shorter during the Summer. I still need to get the Servo Saver Nut ground down...will work on that soon and hopefully it will aid in my clearance issue. Thanks for the tips! Here are a few snapshots of the new M3 with almost everything Empire (minus The Grip, gotta order it) Tearing down the engine and pipe for a rebuild and will be ready to roll. Think I can join Team "EPmire"?
BTW, the Empire parts fit very well. Oh and I wanted to ask about the Alloy Front Sway Bar Mount: How come you guys decided to remove the upper Bump Stops that limit the up travel in the suspension?


I did not install the Empire Front Body Mount yet.



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Old 06-15-2009, 07:28 PM   #543
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... Oh and I wanted to ask about the Alloy Front Sway Bar Mount: How come you guys decided to remove the upper Bump Stops that limit the up travel in the suspension?
The suspension is very well engineered no need for down stops - we stopped using that adjustment in '03.

Nice looking car. Well done.

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Old 06-17-2009, 06:36 PM   #544
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Guys,
i'm getting rid of all my Evolva/M3 parts. I'll be listing more stuff daily. Sold the car, so all the parts have to go.

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/motosp...rmrsZ1QQ_fromZ

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Old 06-18-2009, 12:57 PM   #545
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Could not find this in english.

Anyone know where I could find the stock setup sheet (not blank) for the M3?

Also, I'm trying to find Titanium Turnbuckle Links for all-around...especially for the steering.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:35 PM   #546
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Could not find this in english.

Anyone know where I could find the stock setup sheet (not blank) for the M3?

Also, I'm trying to find Titanium Turnbuckle Links for all-around...especially for the steering.
Kimbrow's 301 set-up/M3
Attached Files
File Type: pdf M3Kimbrow.pdf (134.9 KB, 175 views)
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:34 PM   #547
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Kimbrow's 301 set-up/M3
Right on Rich! I'll give that a try.

I just rebuilt a Cordoba and was reading up on breaking-in methods.
Which method do you guys use as your "breaking-in method"?
I read this one earlier, what do guys think about this method?
Sounds dangerous and something only the Factory Driver's can afford to use

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
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Last edited by jt415gz; 06-20-2009 at 03:30 PM. Reason: corrected
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Old 06-19-2009, 10:21 PM   #548
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That's a good break-in procedure.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:47 AM   #549
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That's a good break-in procedure.
Interesting - should I add some Castor oil mixed with 25% Nitro, 11% Lubrication, Byron's 2 during break-in? If so, how much should I add?
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:32 AM   #550
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I don't add any additional oil for break-in. When the engine is this rich, it's getting plenty of oil.
In fact, I'll be breaking in a couple engines this afternoon with Byrons Gen2.
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Old 06-20-2009, 03:38 PM   #551
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rjr - have fun with the break-in because I am leaning towards this method...will be a learning experience for me. I might actually go as far as to use a Hudy Break-In Bench since it is equipped with a propeller for load, cooling efficiency and save my chassis some bearing life

let us know how your break-ins goes...
I'd like to hear about it!
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:55 PM   #552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt415gz View Post
rjr - have fun with the break-in because I am leaning towards this method...will be a learning experience for me. I might actually go as far as to use a Hudy Break-In Bench since it is equipped with a propeller for load, cooling efficiency and save my chassis some bearing life

let us know how your break-ins goes...
I'd like to hear about it!
To Both RJR and JT:
I can vouch for Josh's method of breaking in engines. I agree with Rich, This is a good method if done carefully and patiently. It "works-in" the piston ans sleeve under a controlled environment. I have been breaking in my engines this way for a while now. I spoke to Josh about this process and he said it works for both AAC and ABC motors alike.
A few important observations before breaking in the motors that I have aquired and used in addition/combination to this proceedure. The motors have been faster, more consistent, and last longer:
1-Use a break in bench for the first 2-3 bottles.
2-add 7 oz of castor oil to the first bottle, 5 oz to the second bottle, 3 oz to the third bottle, 0 oz fourth bottle.....
3-Add a .10 shim to the underhead before you start the engine for the first time until you finish the fifth-sixth bottle then return to stock shimming.
4-Wrap the colling head (on the bench) in aluminum foil to maintain heat in the engine (good temperature for break in is 180-200 F) the entire time. Remenber that a propeller is blowing on the engine which will tend to reduce the temperature. You don't want that. You want to maintain a consistent 200 degrees.
5-EVEN BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE, GET THE MOTOR'S CRANK CASE UP TO 200 DEGREES with a heat gun) this will expand the new sleeve and reduce any stress on the newly "married" piston and sleeve. This will also reduce the possibilities of the piston developing micro-scratches due to it being forced into the "tight" sleeve without heat and "lubrication". Sorry for the inuendos but its true.
6-bring the piston down between cool-downs. This allows the sleeve to recontract.
7- If the motor doesn't want to keep at the 200 degree point while running it wide-open, (because it is very rich), keep the heat gun on it pointed around the exhaust outlet right on the crank case forcing the heat to remain present.
8- Always keep measuring the temperature throughout the process

The key is to get plenty of consistent heat (around 200 degrees) into the engine with plenty of lubrication throughout this process on the bench and later on the track.

Enjoy the break-in!

Any question please don't hesitate...

Paulie B
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:48 PM   #553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulie Bee View Post
To Both RJR and JT:
I can vouch for Josh's method of breaking in engines. I agree with Rich, This is a good method if done carefully and patiently. It "works-in" the piston ans sleeve under a controlled environment. I have been breaking in my engines this way for a while now. I spoke to Josh about this process and he said it works for both AAC and ABC motors alike.
A few important observations before breaking in the motors that I have aquired and used in addition/combination to this proceedure. The motors have been faster, more consistent, and last longer:
1-Use a break in bench for the first 2-3 bottles.
2-add 7 oz of castor oil to the first bottle, 5 oz to the second bottle, 3 oz to the third bottle, 0 oz fourth bottle.....
3-Add a .10 shim to the underhead before you start the engine for the first time until you finish the fifth-sixth bottle then return to stock shimming.
4-Wrap the colling head (on the bench) in aluminum foil to maintain heat in the engine (good temperature for break in is 180-200 F) the entire time. Remenber that a propeller is blowing on the engine which will tend to reduce the temperature. You don't want that. You want to maintain a consistent 200 degrees.
5-EVEN BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE, GET THE MOTOR'S CRANK CASE UP TO 200 DEGREES with a heat gun) this will expand the new sleeve and reduce any stress on the newly "married" piston and sleeve. This will also reduce the possibilities of the piston developing micro-scratches due to it being forced into the "tight" sleeve without heat and "lubrication". Sorry for the inuendos but its true.
6-bring the piston down between cool-downs. This allows the sleeve to recontract.
7- If the motor doesn't want to keep at the 200 degree point while running it wide-open, (because it is very rich), keep the heat gun on it pointed around the exhaust outlet right on the crank case forcing the heat to remain present.
8- Always keep measuring the temperature throughout the process

The key is to get plenty of consistent heat (around 200 degrees) into the engine with plenty of lubrication throughout this process on the bench and later on the track.

Enjoy the break-in!

Any question please don't hesitate...

Paulie B
I enjoyed your post - very detailed.

I do have some questions.

Q1) When you mention bottles...are you saying like a 500cc or greater fuel bottle?

Q2) 2-3 bottles on the bench...and then continue breaking-in in the car?

Q3) So is this the complete process of yours excluding all of Josh Cyrul's tutorial...or do I use a combination of both (yours and Josh Cyrul's) mixed together?

I just need to be sure thanks!
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:05 PM   #554
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Default adjusting ride height

For the M3 chassis-

Where exactly do you guys place the ride height gauge (i have hudy) to measure the front and rear so you can still view the graduation marks, because if you noticed the sides and rear of the chassis has tappered/narrower thicknesses...? I wanna measure the lowest part of the chassis.

Also do you guys measure only from the centerline front and back or do you measure left and right sides in front and left and right in the rear?

...for some reason even when adjusting the shock collars equally I still get a slight ride height difference in front... left side would read 6.75 and right 6.5 and 6.5 is where i want it set...

* mind you that the front sway bars and rear anti-roll bar are removed and I am pressing down on the front and rear then releasing on the chassis, then allowing it to settle before each readjustment/measurement

thanks for any tips.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:37 PM   #555
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if i am not wrong the real height is 1mm lower than that you read in the gauge.
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