Jspeed

Don't mean any disrespect at all.....

I’m friends with Tommy too and I don’t think it’s at all possible that he ran a bunch of practice tanks, 4 qualifiers and his Main on only one set of foams all weekend long.

A racer that wants to win the A Main finds the exact tire diameter that provides the “over drive” ratio & ride height needed to win against the other racers that are doing the same thing.

Maybe Tommy or another A Main driver could chime in and honestly dispel any myths about how many sets of foams it takes to win a race at a FORGASS or any other National event so we can finally move away from this foams vs. rubber in “GT” racing for once and for all.

Jspeed

Paulie and I are friends on & off the track, if he's running fast I'm happy for him, after all don't we do this all to have fun with friends?

Now you know there is a guy that races with us that has even asked you why you didn't "take him out" at Homestead, remember?

Thats the same guy that tried his best to take my car out last weekend during the Main. That kind of attitude doesn't promote fun in our sport, it promotes violence at races and it should be controled before is gets worse.

Nobody is gonna break my new toy on purpose and walk away happy about it.

bigemike

iTrader: (36)

how did we go from discussing the newer chassis that are available to a rubber vs foam discussion. Stay on target, lol

Anyways we don't have much support around here for ofna, so I am going to stick with my new kyosho. I really like the vette body anyways, half the reason to get the car.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I am sure the COST for the hobbyshop for the IGT2 is more then $370....you have a GREAT DEAL...if I can get IGT2 for $370, I would not even compare DM1-spec....just because of the $$$$ different.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

In order to race as the SPEC class...I need to get those stock RTR engine, which is easily another $150 or so.
I do agree the Dm1-spec is a better parts/built car, but then after it all adds up, its more like a bigger scale TC car...

Andy who?...I know you are browsing, when can I get that IGT2 from you for next season MWS..? LOL

Andy who?

How much do you pay for a set (4tires)?

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

Jeff,
Please don't take this the wrong way...
But
What did you do on Race #8, Heat #2 to turn a 17.7 on the last lap? Out of 147 laps you only turned
1 lap at 17.7,
14 laps ranging from 18.2 to 18.9,
and the rest 19+ range

Even TQ Paul couldn't get under 18...

was there some hanky panky going on the 17.7 lap.....?

kmichael

iTrader: (4)

LOL

Jspeed

Vad,

No “hanky panky” Bro, I think all of the “GT” cars could have gone faster at Fort Meyers with more time to try different things and getting used to the flow more.

I’ve run the track a lot on VRC and there are fast ways to get around it. On the game I’ve run 26 laps with a Shepherd Speed set-up that has gone 11.4 seconds.

The chicane in front of the driver’s stand is section where you can lower lap times, but your car must be able to take it at full speed without letting up. Not easy to do, a lot of cars have gotten destroyed trying to pull off that move there over the years.

You can make a lot of time on the entry to the infield and the final section approaching the start/finish line if you line it up just right.

The fastest laps always seem to be the last one at “The Fort” because I’m just concentrating on going as straight as possible to the finish line and not worrying about “setting the car up” for the chicane.

The most important thing always remember about racing at “The Fort” is if you loose respect for it, it will bite you.

It’s not called “the most destructive track on earth” by VRC for nothing.

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

Jeff,
It's all good, I was just ribbing you. The main thing is you are the winner.

wwoodruff

Hey jspeed it's not unethical to set pricing lower than a manufacturers map, suggested retail, or what ever you want to call it. Its an attempt to insure that pricing is not used as a marketing tool. Of course dealers do not have a choice if they have to buy from the manufacturer. The dealer will simply be cut off from buying if they disregard the map!

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

We here we can use foam or rubber but we op. to use rubber which is more consitant and manage to put down fast laps with the rubber VS. the foam, yes the foam is far better for a TQ run(if you don't chunk the tire) but the rubber has a good racers feel to it, you could drive hard to put a fast pace and burn up tire like a foam or drive the race pace and save your tire for the long run, butI like the fact that I can do whatever pace I need to go when rubber tires are involve our PMT tires we use put up a good pace vs. the foam and managed a 17.5 for a fast lap and constanly stay under the 19 second window.

Jspeed

MAP means = Minimum Advertised Pricing. That means that if you as a “dealer” purchase something there is a required minimum that price that a “dealer’ can advertise that item for, according to the manufacture.

This is an “ethical” price point made by manufacturers set to keep “dealers” from “whoreing out" their products and hurting their other “dealers” that have “over-head” to deal with.

If a “dealer” purchases an item for $1 dollar and the MAP is $1.30, that allows the “dealer” to make at least 30 cents profit or 30% earning on the sale of that item.

MSRP means = Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Pricing. That means that is the “full retail” price for an item. “Dealers” often discount off the MSRP pricing as a common form of “ethical business practice”. That also includes any sales, for example “30% Off Sale Today”. That means the pricing of the sale is 30% off full retail or MSRP.

If a dealer buys an item for X amount of dollars and sells it for 1 dollar over cost, its way below MAP level and it hurts the “dealers” trying to pay for their store & feed employees as well as their families.

I hope that helps you understand what business ethics are all about.

garen

iTrader: (7)

I don't wish to get involved with a debate on tires, but I will post some facts which are based on my experience.

At our last race, I had both foam and rubber tires at my disposal. I tried both in practice, and both worked well, the foams being a little faster overall. I used foam tires in 3 rounds of qualifying, and I lent this same set of tires to another driver for him to use in his qualifier. For the main event, I switched to a brand new set of rubber tires, mainly because everyone else was on rubber. My car was a bit slower, maybe a couple tenths a lap, on the rubber tires, but drove very well and I had fun either way.

Now, here are the facts. My car was no less consistent on foams than on rubber. My foam tires have over 45 minutes run time (1/2 day practice, 4 quals 5 minutes each + 5 minute warmups) and my rubber tires I used in the main have about 35 minutes run time (30 minutes main + warm up). My rubber tires are pretty well shot, at least the left sides are. My foam tires are no where near shot and have plenty of life in them. As far as this one race goes, the foam tires outlasted the rubber tires, were as consistent of not more consistent than the rubber tires, and my lap times a bit faster too. Maybe I got lucky and did not chunk a tire, as I tend not to crash too much but I did have some bumping and rubbing, but comparing the rubber to foam, the foams were a better value and more cost effective. In fact they are the perfect size for use at the next race.

I am not trying to shove foam tires down anyone's throat or selling anything here, just stating facts. I always thought that rubber tires would outlast foams, but on this track, which is a tire eater, I found the opposite to be true. Also, the foam tires I used, which retail for about $50/set, come in 2 compounds only, which made things easier and cheaper for me. I'll try to take some pictures of both sets of tires and post them here.

Fastforward

iTrader: (5)

Hey Jspeed, it sounds like you have quite a bit of experiance with diffrent shore rating tires. Would you mind sharing your insight as to what tire works best in what track temperture range. This would help some of who have less experiance with the diffrent shore ratings and what they are best suited for.

Thanks in advance