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Old 07-21-2011, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by briankstan
well I'm biased but the mini-z's are awesome. I've been racing them for over 6 years. Based on the ever increasing prices of them though, they are more then just proud of them.
Brian, I have nothing against the Mini-z, I just wish Kyosho would learn to multitask better and not just focus on one aspect of RC.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Raman
Brian, I have nothing against the Mini-z, I just wish Kyosho would learn to multitask better and not just focus on one aspect of RC.
I agree, I have just as much fun racing my IGT..
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrodash
I would recommend a full carbon fiber kit from Max Velocity racing it will Lighten the car significantly it will also stand the steering and throttle servos up which help eliminate extra moving parts that could fail and take some of the risk of side impact away.Its will also stand the front shocks up this will give you more tuning options. A aluminum front lower pin holder will be good also. If the DM1 take a hit on the front wheels the lower pin holder breaks sometimes.
ok didn't know about the carbon fiber. putting in savox servos the ones in the car suck lol.ordered steel bake disc and pads from nitro house too.thanks for the info.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
If you have the brakes solved, you need to get an aluminum holder for the lower front arms. Might also get the upper rear bracket, the one close to the exhaust header, as it does heat up the plastic. These can be found from Max Velocity, King Headz, YBSlow (see IGT Hobbies as he normally has all in stock). You might also look at the Max Velocity front and rear shock mount, King Headz chassis and Max Velocity stand up servo mount.

BUT this class should be fun, so all you really need is the first item. All the rest as you want or need.
thanks for the info i'll order the alum arm holders. i was told 10mm ride hight 1000 diff fluid in front shocks 100 rear with the red springs all around. do they make other pistons for the shocks?
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by s.l.c.
Mugen MBX-6 eco

I want to know. How much for this body shell. Thank you.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:07 PM
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Set-Ferrari-GT


$48.99
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:20 PM
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ok guys i looked at max v so are all thoase parts legal by mid west rules? cus i can't seem to find those rules so i can read them.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by *1speedy
Thank's Sir....
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by speedracer1200
ok guys i looked at max v so are all thoase parts legal by mid west rules? cus i can't seem to find those rules so i can read them.
Not the carbon chassis.

I have the shock mounts - Ft and Rear, stand up servo, front steering mount on the car. Have the "Ackermen Arm" and the center brake plate sill in the parts bin. but they may make it some time.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
Not the carbon chassis.

I have the shock mounts - Ft and Rear, stand up servo, front steering mount on the car. Have the "Ackermen Arm" and the center brake plate sill in the parts bin. but they may make it some time.
Not sure if the chassis is legal but it runs very well I have been running it for close to two race seasons and I haven't had any problems at all it can take a beating and it gives me a little extra on the top end. I like it.
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Old 07-21-2011, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrodash
Not sure if the chassis is legal but it runs very well I have been running it for close to two race seasons and I haven't had any problems at all it can take a beating and it gives me a little extra on the top end. I like it.
Almost all the groups other than open run what ya brung class has stated an aluminum chassis.

I'd agree that the lighter chassis would help acceleration and top speed, but that is why they were specing the metal chassis.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
Almost all the groups other than open run what ya brung class has stated an aluminum chassis.

I'd agree that the lighter chassis would help acceleration and top speed, but that is why they were specing the metal chassis.
ok so most every thing but the bottom plate thats cool can do saves me like 3 of them. but gotta have one cus its cool. it,s a spec. class i know and want to promote it its just i am the type to find all the loop holes and i want them all closed and resolved is all.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:05 PM
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Easy on the "loop holes"
Most spec. rules are in place to save folks money.
Sometimes they fail because when you "spec out"
peeps tend to seek out the best motors,packs,parts,ect....
I took on this class thinking it was a cheap way to use up
my old buggy stuff.It's starting to turn into a $$ class.
High dollar tires,parts,engines is not the way to take it.
Keep it FUN

Set rules to keep it cheap
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:53 PM
  #7019  
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost
Easy on the "loop holes"
Most spec. rules are in place to save folks money.
Sometimes they fail because when you "spec out"
peeps tend to seek out the best motors,packs,parts,ect....
I took on this class thinking it was a cheap way to use up
my old buggy stuff.It's starting to turn into a $$ class.
High dollar tires,parts,engines is not the way to take it.
Keep it FUN

Set rules to keep it cheap
i understand the keep it cheap and simple cus i can be the guy that has the funds to have all the best stuff . thats why i'm finding out what the rules allow so we know how far to allow the parts to go thanks.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:43 PM
  #7020  
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Originally Posted by j.d.roost
Easy on the "loop holes"
Most spec. rules are in place to save folks money.
Sometimes they fail because when you "spec out"
peeps tend to seek out the best motors,packs,parts,ect....
I took on this class thinking it was a cheap way to use up
my old buggy stuff.It's starting to turn into a $$ class.
High dollar tires,parts,engines is not the way to take it.
Keep it FUN

Set rules to keep it cheap
I like keeping it cheap most of the time but sometimes the higher end products that perform better and allow your GT to handles and perform at its full potential requires you to speed some money. I noticed that people that go the cheapest route possible end up buying those same cheap products over and over because they lack quality and durability that most of the time in this hobby you have to pay for. Bottom line you get what you pay for so cheap is not always best way
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