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Old 03-30-2004, 10:57 AM   #841
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Quote:
Cool.... Mine is all silver Hey, I notice that you don't use the alum hex wheel and rear belt tensioner. Go get 'em !!! Those are the most important optional parts for G4.
Thanks.... Does the wheel hexs have to Team Magic or can I use any brands?? But the tensioner I was going to use the stock one. But I'll order one of those too......
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:12 AM   #842
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Daniz24- This one???? http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...97&cat=&page=1


Thanks.....
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Old 03-30-2004, 12:24 PM   #843
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think he probably meant this,the link you put on is for a mugen

http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=403&page=1
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Old 03-30-2004, 12:40 PM   #844
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Whoops........thanks Jas1!!
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Old 03-30-2004, 05:12 PM   #845
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Quote:
Originally posted by jas1
think he probably meant this,the link you put on is for a mugen

http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=403&page=1
Yup, that's the one.
And for the alu hex : K1418 G4 Alu Clamp Hex Whl Hub (4)
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:27 PM   #846
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Default Get the "Radio Control Car Action"

Just got my new "Radio Control Car Action" today. And on page 140 "How to Prep Your Nitro Tourer with Joel Johnson". We have Joel giving his advice racing your nitro with his hopped up G4....... He's a Trinity Driver, correct???
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:12 PM   #847
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Default Tweaked chassis

Hey, I just found something out on my G4. After about 20 or 30 tanks, I have noticed a bit of tweak in my stock chassis. I could literally take the wheels off and rock it back and forth on a flat surface. I just installed a aluminum middle mount and aluminum transponder kit. That totally fixed my tweaked chassis. Plus its stiffer. I can't wait to get it on the track now.

I always had a bit of a problem with the rear wheels getting loose when I brake hard. Hopefully this will improve it.
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:36 PM   #848
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Aluminum Transponder Kit??? Haven't seen that one. Cool so it sounds like some more hop ups to add.
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:43 PM   #849
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nitropimp
Aluminum Transponder Kit??? Haven't seen that one. Cool so it sounds like some more hop ups to add.
Hmmm, maybe it's aluminum servo mount. Rear carbon shock tower is also a good hop up parts...
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:45 PM   #850
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Yeah my bad k1427

Aluminum servo mount.
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:23 PM   #851
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nitropimp.... I'll have to check that out... Good post. What new things did he add to his G4 and any setup tips??? Josh Cyrul also was in RC Car Action last year and had a few things to say about the G4...

RC_Alan
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Old 04-01-2004, 07:17 AM   #852
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Jas1,

hiya, how did tibby went last wekend ?
Do you have any data on FTD, car types and engine used in the open final ?

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:54 AM   #853
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Whee my G4 just arrived from RCNUT, I am so stoked I am gonna get one of those engines from him,

wooties
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Old 04-01-2004, 09:03 AM   #854
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My G4 will probably arrive in a week or so too
What engines do you recommend guys / gals? My sponsor wants me to run mostly LRP and Picco engines and what do you think of them?
I have a JP Nova engine since last year in my boxes somewhere that i used in my V-One RR last year, will probably run that engine in training sessions

What options is a must have then? I'm thinking of buying the alum. servosaver for less wear
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Old 04-01-2004, 02:12 PM   #855
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Default RC Car Action Tips from Joel...

Sorry guyís about the late post but my computer keeps crashing.

Rc_Alan basically what Joel said was:

1. Polish the Hinge Pins and Pivot Balls. Use a dremel and some polishing compound and buff those babyís out.


2. Make sure suspension arm is free from binds. To test your assembly for binding, remove the shocks and see if the suspension arms fall under their own weight. If they donít, youíve got some freeing up to do. And then he tells you how to free up binds ie..hinge pins..

3. Smoother belts. This was one I never heard. Soak all your drive belts in WD-40 24 to 48 hours before a race. Free spinning drive train is the key to speed.

4. Drive cup wear prevention. Basically what he says is to put some grease in the pins of the CVDís or Uniís

5. This is good one especially on the G4. Change the Chasis Phillips head screws to a 4-40 Hex head screws.

6. Save weight with aluminum hardware. I.e. Aluminum screws on servoís, aluminum hop ups etcÖ

7. Low CG Servo Mounting. Basically mount the servo as low as possible by putting it under the radio tray-NOT on the top. Donít let it hit the chasis because this could lead to servo failure.

8. Lower the engine. Use Low CG motor mounts.

9. Sand the edges of graphite parts and put CA glue over the edge. Iíve heard of this tip from other proís.

10. This is going to hard to describe. I use zip ties on my other Nitro cars but this is pretty cool. Maybe I can take pic (I donít have scanner) with my camera to show you guys this. But basically use two long Zip ties and go from the gas tank through the engine ending at the back underneath the rear body post mount.

11. Use an electric car motor pinion gear for your brake adjustments.

12. Less fuel line, have the same volume. This tip was interesting Iím old school have tons fuel tubing for fuel pressure. But Joel saying use a volume increasing canister or a big fuel filter and gut it.

13. Set your endpoints on your radio properly. Can damage your servoís with servo bind.

14. Servo Linkage setup. Keep your linkage perpendicular to the servo arm as much as possible.

15. Fuel proof your on/off switch. Use a switch cover.

that's all folks.......
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