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Old 03-17-2004, 02:42 PM   #751
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cars running 3 belts dont run 100% free compared to shaft drive cars, you didnt say whether you have just built the car or not, if it is new then the will be a little tight, and will free up after your first couple of runs. if you are concerned, remove the side belt, and rotate front wheels then back and just make sure there is nothing binding, also make sure the side belt tensioner is not to tight. hope this helps
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Old 03-17-2004, 02:47 PM   #752
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thanks, yeah, this is my 1st 3 belt car and i haven't run it yet (its still snowing) so thats probably why it isn't as free as i'm used to.
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Old 03-17-2004, 02:58 PM   #753
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I'm using stock belts and I think mine are adjusted ok. If I give my G4 a gentle push on a flat floor, It goes about six feet before it stops rolling.
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:07 PM   #754
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Really, b/c mine is not even close to that, although i have yet to run my g4 and break in my belts
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:10 PM   #755
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I weighed the chassis and this is what I got:


Stock 111grams


4mm Kfactory 146 grams


Just to let you know, I opened a c class kit for parts, so if anyone needs stock parts, I have them all.
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Old 03-17-2004, 05:23 PM   #756
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Quote:
Originally posted by bballer
jas1, when i'm rolling the car with the stock belts should it be pretty tight and it doesn't go far at all or have i done something wrong? thanks
I have run a V1R with the G4 KFactory belts. They are tight initially but will break in quickly.

Statically a 3 belt car has more friction than a shaft car, but once the clutch drops the way the friction of the drivetrain works changes.
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Old 03-17-2004, 06:40 PM   #757
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Quote:
Originally posted by bballer
Really, b/c mine is not even close to that, although i have yet to run my g4 and break in my belts

Yeah, well your belts will be tight, as they should be before the initial run. However I would recommend removing the side belt and see if your roll test improves significantly. If it does, your belt tensioner may need some adjusting, like mine did.

Not necessarily up or down, but the little roller thing may be rubbing against your side plate.
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Old 03-17-2004, 06:44 PM   #758
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i've ran the kfactory side belt......

until the "break-in" the belt pulls out sometimes....
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Old 03-17-2004, 07:14 PM   #759
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Also one simple check... Is your brake on??? If you try to roll your car and the brake is on or the trottle linkage has your brake engaged, your car won't roll very well. My cars rolled a few feet new and rolls alittle farther now that everything has broken in. You want to use everything low friction as much as possible ie. belts and pulley's ect. You don't have to, but if you can, you should. Shaft driven cars will always roll better then belt cars, but that doesn't mean shaft driven cars are faster... It's just the nature of the design. Check your brakes first before you try the roll test...02

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Old 03-18-2004, 04:58 AM   #760
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The front belt will be broken first as it has no place to put the belt tensioner.

As a matter of friction.. sometimes you will need the car to NOT roll that free since you are kind of needed that `natural` drag brake feel to go fast around the corners.
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Old 03-18-2004, 08:45 AM   #761
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Pyramid... I understand what you're saying, but You shouldn't want any brake drag at all while driving. For cornering and rear end tire action, you would change your rear diff oil. Say from 10,000 wtg. to 30,000, 50,000 or if you're running a Lola body... a solid rear diff. If anyone is using a front oneway, you want some brake but not to much... Back to the rolling chassis, Everyone sets there cars up a little different. My setup will be different for guy B or guy C, but I should be able to drive his car and he mine with out being totally confused. Bballer, if you are finished building your car, do the roll test and measure how far it rolls with the brake off, then drive the car for 2-3 weeks and then do the roll test again and measure the difference between the first test and last one. You setup is more important then how far your car rolls, but it's still important to have as little drag on your chassis and motor as possible. Your car will be faster and your motor will temp cooler.. Also for a quicker take off and more control... Adjust your centex clutch according to your track conditions... It's nice to see everyone helping out each other here in this forum... At my lhs and my local RC track, no one has my car, I'm like the black sheep at the track. But you know what? I love the car and I'm driving better with this car then with any other car I've ever had ie. Mugen, HPI and NTC3... The tips shared here are great and are very helpful. Getting ready for the Airtronics Race at Revelation raceway this month..

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Old 03-18-2004, 09:13 AM   #762
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My parcel arrived this morning. Thank once again Border RC. The new Chassis K1475...............................

148g !!!!!.

Gonna to take the old out and weight it, oh by the way, the car at the moment is 1660g with half tank fuel ( no shell ).
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Old 03-18-2004, 09:55 AM   #763
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xtreme888, if your cars weighing in at 1660g, hope you've ordered plenty of lead weights to get back upto the 1750g weight limit.
are you doin the national series, seems tibbys only week and a half away.
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Old 03-18-2004, 05:15 PM   #764
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Hey all,

I am running a special 5% off all k factory parts in stock. And as always spend $100 and get free shipping in the US and I ship priority mail. www.rcnutshobbies.com
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Old 03-18-2004, 06:36 PM   #765
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hi xreme888,
i run the g4 with solid axle and front one way in he moment.
i am in the moment even fast like the serpent impact/835 driver
on ouer track.
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