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Old 01-25-2004, 07:05 AM   #436
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Vr6vroom: I m using Hitec 5925 but before that I was using Sanwa/Airtronics as well. What you can do is just use the normal servo Sanwa/Airtronics horn but you have to put the ball at the rear of the horn facing the servo. You also have to use the servo mounting spacer ( in my case I put the thinner one) to make the linkage almost 90 degree and not forget to shim or flaten the plastic ball linkage otherwise it will touch the servo. Also be sure to check the length of the horn if its too long it will touch the front upper deck.I m using this system with my Hitec and sanwa servos. You can also check Kmac's system ( look into How to bulletproof G4 steering linkage thread).
Hope this helps.
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Old 01-25-2004, 10:24 AM   #437
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Default servo horn

Dameetz,
I am trying to get away from the plastic horn. But if I use the ofna style aluminum ones, the offset hits the frt bulkhead. Kmac uses a alloy horn and it clears. I just want to know what to purchase using my Airtonics servo. The plastic is flimsy, and unreliable. Thanks again.
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Old 01-25-2004, 04:05 PM   #438
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Default Mazda 6 200 mm

The new Proto Mazda 6 is now available in 200mm. Anyone seen them in shops I would like to order one asap. I use on my electric, and love it.
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:25 PM   #439
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Hi guys. I've been racing electric for 5 years now and I'm going to give gas a try. I'm getting a G4 Pro and was looking at a Mugen MT12 rear exaust and slide carb, but I guess there's two type's of shaft's a Standard and ???????(I forgot what its called).


Any HELP would be appreaciated.....


Also what starter box would you guys recommend?

Thank's in advance....
Scott B
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:29 PM   #440
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Quick question re suspension setup:

The rear inside camber linkage has two mounting holes. I know that using either position changes the arc or camber angle of the tyre during suspension compression etc, but how does it affect the cars handling?

e.g. when/why would I need to use the top hole?

Cheers
Lycan
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:41 PM   #441
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Scott B.

Get the SG shaft (pilot shaft) for the G4. The MT12 is a great engine. Very easy to tune and run.

I am currently using the Ofna stainless steel box. The one with a single motor and uses two 7.2v stick packs. Works great, light weight and has a on/off switch (which the associated one doesn't).

Most any starter box will work though.
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:19 PM   #442
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Default Starter box

Quote:
Originally posted by Scott B
Hi guys. I've been racing electric for 5 years now and I'm going to give gas a try. I'm getting a G4 Pro and was looking at a Mugen MT12 rear exaust and slide carb, but I guess there's two type's of shaft's a Standard and ???????(I forgot what its called).


Any HELP would be appreaciated.....


Also what starter box would you guys recommend?

Thank's in advance....
Scott B
Team Magic's starter is the best that I have used yet, it require slight assembly, and two 7.2v packs. I use two radio shack 2000mah packs. You dont need to spend big money on them.
I use the Mugen mt 12, trouble free and it rips. the pilot shaft is what you need I think. Good luck with the G4, hopefully it will please you as it pleases us.
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:26 PM   #443
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Default rear camber link postion

Quote:
Originally posted by Lycan
Quick question re suspension setup:

The rear inside camber linkage has two mounting holes. I know that using either position changes the arc or camber angle of the tyre during suspension compression etc, but how does it affect the cars handling?

e.g. when/why would I need to use the top hole?

Cheers
Lycan
Lycan,
I beleive that if you alter the camber link to the top hole it will allow for more roll or transition of weight quicker side to side, possibly this may be used on lower traction type of tracks. I use the lower hole myself, my track has traction like running on carpet. But it doesnt ever hurt to experiment a little. The only things I have changed from a kit setup would be the springs, shock positions. I use outer holes on the tower f&r, with K magic purple springs on the rear, and K magic Aqua on the frt. The car is unstoppable. I just installed universals on the frt, tommorrow will be the test. I have the opportunity to run all year round, a local indoor asphalt track is a nice thing to have.
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:18 PM   #444
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Thanks for the info Vr6vroom. Interesting stuff. I'll give it a go on our low-med grip track. I noticed that Josh Cyrul (sp?) had made this change on his car; hence the reason for my interest

Next question

Anyone had the opporunity to use the Kawaraha negative diff in the rear of their car (G4 or V1)?
Is this the same thing as the Kyosho "Active Diff"?
If it is, it seems like the ultimate tool when it comes to adjusting the diff action/resistance. It aint cheap though and I was wondering how durable it was.

Cheers
Lycan
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:46 PM   #445
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Default kenji

my opinion kenji is beter
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Old 01-29-2004, 01:03 AM   #446
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Default Re: rear camber link postion

Quote:
Originally posted by Vr6vroom
Lycan,
I beleive that if you alter the camber link to the top hole it will allow for more roll or transition of weight quicker side to side, possibly this may be used on lower traction type of tracks. I use the lower hole myself, my track has traction like running on carpet. But it doesnt ever hurt to experiment a little. The only things I have changed from a kit setup would be the springs, shock positions. I use outer holes on the tower f&r, with K magic purple springs on the rear, and K magic Aqua on the frt. The car is unstoppable. I just installed universals on the frt, tommorrow will be the test. I have the opportunity to run all year round, a local indoor asphalt track is a nice thing to have.
Whow your lucky with a indoor track
we cannot race from september till march thats why we have to travel to other countries
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:33 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lycan
Anyone had the opporunity to use the Kawaraha negative diff in the rear of their car (G4 or V1)?
Cheers
Lycan
Try to search couple pages back... I wrote my experimence with it
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:11 AM   #448
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Has anybody ever measure the new tank capacity? I just got mine and looking from the outside it just look the same as the old one, I mean the dimension is still look the same except for the cap and colour ( mine is K Factory with the blue dot). Anyhow I will test it tommorow and see whether I can make more time in one tank.
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:26 AM   #449
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Hi dameetz

Do you have the old (Kfactory) tank handy? if you see, those tanks are in two parts (plastics). They would be using ultrasonic welding to put upper and lower part together. The blue dots (new tank), if you look closely, comes in three parts (middle parts) as you could see the additional ultrasonic welded lines. This also happened to the original Team Magic tanks. Anyhow, I never measure them myself.. let us know your findings.
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Old 01-30-2004, 02:10 PM   #450
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I measured them. The K-Factory tank is definately bigger.
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