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Old 01-03-2004, 01:03 PM   #331
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The Mugen is a nice car as well... I had one for a day... Sold it to get a G4 kit for extra parts... I notice when Josh Cyrul was driving the G4 at the Roar Nationals, he was using the graphite upgrade... You might want to do the same... Money is alitte tight, so I just put alittle JB weld on it and came back with some black touch up paint... No flex at all. Just got the Team Magic competition pipe... Very nice!!! Time to tackle some bills and pay some taxes... lol The rain just stop out here, I'm off the Track

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Old 01-03-2004, 03:01 PM   #332
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Alan,

what springs are you running? The Reflex springs from Trinity seem a little small....
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Old 01-03-2004, 08:10 PM   #333
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kansasracer, I'm now running Mugen grey springs in the rear and the stock G4 springs in the front... Shock oil is 60 rear and 40 front... I was using Mugen white springs in the rear... Didn't like it on the track I'm currently running on. One last tip.. Rear droop is 4 and the front is set at 1... Works for me... Oh, I never run more then 2 or 3 degress rear camber either... One last thing, I'm not the best driver around, but hands down... This car makes driving easy!!!

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Old 01-04-2004, 06:41 AM   #334
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I ve been running this car for about a month now. It handles very very nice. One thing I notice though, it has less steering compare to my Evo and MTX, eventhough I get full throw from the servo. I m using the metal servo saver and my steering system is very smooth. I m also using stock set up except for front one way, I replace it with diff (due to configuration of my local track, tight and tecnical). Rear diff I use 10000 mugen oil and front 30000 kyosho oil with 37 deg tyres all around. Also I saw on the RC car action magazine that Josh was using 2 deg toe in at front, whats the effect of using toe in instead of toe out at the front, will this give me more steering?
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:10 AM   #335
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Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
I ve been running this car for about a month now. It handles very very nice. One thing I notice though, it has less steering compare to .............
Less steering... does the other cars running front diff also??
We are playing in 22x46 meter tracks with 2.8m infield and the G4 can takes from corners (sweeper?) out to straight at full trhottle till the end. And yes, thats with one way.

Not sure about 2deg toe in on front as it will definitely makes the car hard to turn.. maybe misstype as a rear toe?

If you want to make the to have more steering at both on and off throttle, try use more caster, all clips (4mm) in front and use at least 15000 diff gear. Put the car facing you and turns the wheell to the left/right and notice the changes it makes to the rear end. Try to change the casters and see the different in movement of rear end.. Tips: when turning the wheels right (car facing you), it is not the rear left that gets more traction (as it looks like being pushed to the ground more), but rather the rear right that loose its traction which makes the car easier to turn. All of that is true when combining with heavier diff oil.
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:10 AM   #336
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Dameetz, Pyramid has a point when he says to use more caster to add alittle more steering. The real key to steering is your shock oil... Sound strange but true. If you're driving through a sweeper and your car pushes... You need to change your shock oil... If your car pushes wide exiting turns and during low speed turns, and you're getting the full throw in your steering... Change your shock oil. Dameetz, sounds like you're running hard springs in the front and soft in the rear... Try this, go with soft springs in the front, the softest you can find and use 40wt oil. and in the rear use a harder spring... Not super hard but one that are hard and use 60 wt. oil in the rear. The oil weight effects how the car changes direction at slow speeds and high.. before you go trying alot of different changes to your car, use a setup station and dial in your setting first, then rebuild your shocks and don't use the stock shock badders... Use OFNA's or or the one's by GS RC racing. Cost all of 3-5 dollars. Try the change in shock oil and the spring change and I'm sure your car will be driving on rails in no time. One last tip... Don't toe in the front wheels.. I read the same setup of Josh's... If you want more steering, toe out the front 1*degree only. Toe in the rear 2*degree's and your set... Write down all your setting and keep track of what you're doing and have done to your car...

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Old 01-05-2004, 08:28 AM   #337
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Thanks Rc Alan and Pyramid, I will try your advice this weekend. For the shock bladders can I use Kyosho or Mugen shock bladders, I mean will it fit? My LHS doesn't sell Ofna or GS racing parts. As for the spring, I have Mugen Purple spring which is the softest of Mugen, I will try with this spring first. Also today I drove my friend's G4 and I feel his car has more steering than mine, he told me that his setting is the same as mine (stock set up) except for rear diff oil which is 30000 and I also notice that he didn't use the dust protector sponge for the servo saver, he said he didn't put it because to get more steering throw. Do you guys do this as well?
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:32 AM   #338
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One more thing for Pyramid, yes all my cars are fitted with front diff. When you mention 15000 diff oil is this for front or rear? At the moment all my caster clips are at the rear (as per stock set up) and I thought all this while when you put the caster towards the rear it will give me more steering.

Thanks!
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:24 PM   #339
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Mugen bladders should be fine...
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:44 PM   #340
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Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
One more thing for Pyramid, yes all my cars are fitted with front diff. When you mention 15000 diff oil is this for front or rear? At the moment all my caster clips are at the rear (as per stock set up) and I thought all this while when you put the caster towards the rear it will give me more steering.

Thanks!
Hi, about the diff, is your friends G4 also using front diff? There is no significant way for not using the sponge to get more steering throw... It is there to cover the dirt entering your steering servo saver block.

15000 is for the rear with front one way configuration. How tight and technical your track is? less than 22x46m with 2.8m in field? Anyway, if the are tight and a lot of sharp corners, dont you think that one way will help you turn tighter?

In case you have time, try the stock set up with the following guidelines/changes in mind (yes, using front 1way),

Front Toe Out: -0.5 deg
Caster clips: 2mm in front (increase that until 4mm on track when you need more steering)
Ride height (measure using/in hudy setup): Front: 7, Rear: 7
Droop (measure using Hudy block): Front 3, Rear 4
Tires diameter (with -1 deg camber cut): Fr 61cm, Rr 62cm
Track widht: Fr 199, Rr 200
Rear Diff Oil: 15000 (or 10000 for easier drive)

All other not mention above, please refer to standard setup including 60w shock oil and standard silver springs. I do not know about mugen shock, but I try Associated shock and found wierd feeling/balance between front and rear due to that springs is too long. I mean, the front spring compreses to far (due to setup ride height and droop) compare to the rear. So I put standard springs back and now realize why they design them short.

In case you put up travel screws (on rear bulkhead), please remove them or just make sure they dont do anything. Furthermore, also remove all O ring in the rear axle and diff joint to make sure there are no binding in suspension movement. Check the front as well.

Last but not least, I dont know if I remember them correctly, make sure you steering linkage (servo horn to servo saver) is measures 30-30.1mm from one end of the plastic ball cup to the other end. This will make the servo horn not in the middle (slightly to the right when the car facing you) which is the correct setup to get even steering radius for turning left and right. You could double check that on Hudy setup. The steering linkage (servo saver block to steering knuckle) is somewhere within 28mm to 29.5mm measure from the bottom ball (not the end) cup to the other bottom end. Those measurement depends on which servo saver block you are using, standard or optional as they are different in widht.

I believe all cars is about balance, especially total weight on each of its tires. So if we spent more time for balancing the car, just making sure left and right is all at the exact measurement, that particular car should be drivable on every tracks. So I always try to use all oil and springs at the same rate for front and rear and try to change other think first. I guess the mugen guys will now try to complain or denfend their tank placements .. just joking

Sorry for the long reading...
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:21 PM   #341
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Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
One more thing for Pyramid, yes all my cars are fitted with front diff. When you mention 15000 diff oil is this for front or rear? At the moment all my caster clips are at the rear (as per stock set up) and I thought all this while when you put the caster towards the rear it will give me more steering.

Thanks!
Sorry forgot, more caster = more steering for both on an off throttle combined with harder rear diff. I do not dare to explain further as it will take another long reading.. please give it a try first. In general, why harder rear diff? because if not, then the engine power will be transfer to the lifted up rear tires so it would make it more difficult to turn.
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:55 PM   #342
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Hey I noticed that the G4 shocks are really short too.

I'm using the Reflex NT springs as options for my G4.

Tried the Associated for the TC3. They are just too long. They make the ride height too high.

I just got finished working on my car. I have had it for like a month and a half. Please control your laughter if you guys thinks it is so noobie of me, but I had just fixed a minor drive line problem, and this is my first pro level car. The car has always been sluggish on take off, even with the Rossi gold motor. Finally got my clutch "right", but its still slow. Had to go to Trinity's web site for further tuning of clutch. (I'm clueless when it comes to the push type clutch) My problem was that the belt tensioner was not rolling as it should have. Making the drive line stiff. I didn't see anywhere in the instructions of how to assemble that part differently. So I put some small washers in between the tensioner and the chassis stiffner. Works a heck of alot better. Can't wait to try it out on my next track day.

Just a little info for those of you who are building the G4.
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:05 PM   #343
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:03 PM   #344
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My camera isn't too good, but here goes.


http://photos.yahoo.com/aggace

Last edited by Aggdaddy; 01-06-2004 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:40 PM   #345
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aggdaddy

Just a little info for those of you who are building the G4.
Nice rides........
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