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Old 03-28-2005, 09:33 AM   #2911
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Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
No need.
I just finished the Taiwanese National Challenge Round 1 last sunday. I'm the only one running front diff. The track is very tight and technical,too. The starting I used 30k front and 10k rear but the car was not willing to enter the corner. So I pour 30k out about 50% then add some 10k. It handles better. So I think 20k front and 10k rear is not bad.FYI.
I'm running 35 front tyres and 37/40 rear tyres(the outer rear tyre is 40).

because i do not know many things....let me know what is it the 30k is it 30000?

and somethinfge else the more blocked the better steering?or the difference?
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Old 03-28-2005, 09:38 AM   #2912
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Quote:
Originally posted by apla
because i do not know many things....let me know what is it the 30k is it 30000?

and somethinfge else the more blocked the better steering?or the difference?
Yes. 1k(kilo) = 1000
more blocked more less initial steering.
Just start with 20,000 front and 10,000 rear
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Old 03-28-2005, 03:35 PM   #2913
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APLA......

i think the sway bars that come with the EVO version are the kfactory ones......

i use white bodies in order to see my car very wheel on the track, light colors are very good to keep your eyes on your car only......

it'd worth, this is why most 1/8th top racers uses the same fluorescent yellow color to paint their bodies
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Old 03-28-2005, 05:20 PM   #2914
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hi,
have anyone a pic from the new
K1477 G4 Alum. Front Solid Axle Set ??
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:25 AM   #2915
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hi guys
1. i own also a g4 and i ve already put on the 4mm k factory chassis which is very very good and the new steering system(you should also put it on!!!!!).at the time i am very pleased with the car and i would like to ask you about the centax of the k factory do you guys think worth buying it?(i have on the 3 shoe)some said that i ll see difference at acceleration because of the lighter gears?

2.is it better if i take all the wheels more out than they are at the moment

3. do anyone has the pic that shows the little dino(mongoose) that steps on a snake (serpent)??????????


thanks in advance
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Old 04-04-2005, 10:03 AM   #2916
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One of the shock bodies on my G4 Evo has stripped threads. Can someone tell me if Hot Bodies #24011 (nitro touring) shocks are a direct replacement? [COLOR=darkblue]These are the shocks I have.
http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL466...4/91825066.jpg
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Last edited by coastaltony; 04-04-2005 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:07 PM   #2917
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Coastaltony... No, they are not a direct replacement... But, as long as they 1/10 sedan shocks, they'll work... I'm using Mugen shocks on one of my G4's and stock shocks with the other except for the bladders & shock cap ball end which are mugen as well.... I've seen peeps using Tamiya shocks as well, so if you want to try something different... You can.

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Old 04-04-2005, 06:16 PM   #2918
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Cool, thanks[COLOR=blue]
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:04 PM   #2919
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Quote:
Originally posted by apla
hi guys
1. i own also a g4 and i ve already put on the 4mm k factory chassis which is very very good and the new steering system(you should also put it on!!!!!).at the time i am very pleased with the car and i would like to ask you about the centax of the k factory do you guys think worth buying it?(i have on the 3 shoe)some said that i ll see difference at acceleration because of the lighter gears?

2.is it better if i take all the wheels more out than they are at the moment

3. do anyone has the pic that shows the little dino(mongoose) that steps on a snake (serpent)??????????


thanks in advance
Centax clutch has better acceleration and also much better consistency.
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Old 04-06-2005, 08:30 AM   #2920
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Default front belt

is there any way to tight the front belt???i got the e class
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Old 04-12-2005, 04:51 AM   #2921
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Default Front Differential question.

My g4 is on the way and i know i'm not a good enough driver to use the one-way.

Is there a part # for the front diff or do i buy the same stuff as the rear diff but just add the front pulley?

Also -- does the ball diff work in the front ?

Sorry for the newby questions.
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:20 AM   #2922
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To build the front diff you would need these items :

502115 G4 DCase,CCover&Gasket
502116 G4 DJoint,P5Oring,Shim&Pin
502117 G4 Shim, BevShaft,BevGear
502118 G4 Diff Case Gasket (4)
502120 G4 Nyl Fr Pulley Set (w/scr)

Later, you can just filled the diff with V3R-005 : Solid Axis for V-One RRR from 3Racing to make a front fixed axle or you can just buy the new K1477 : G4 Alum. Front Solid Axle Set from K-Factory.

And no, I believe you can't use the rear ball diff in front.
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:29 AM   #2923
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charlesd... Driving with a front one-way is not that hard... Just be careful when setting your brakes... To much brake is not good when driving with a front one-way... What version of the G4 do you have??? The new Mongoose comes with a front one-way... The old C-class G4 comes with a front diff... Daniz24 posted some great info for you if you decide to use a front diff... Where do you plan on driving your G4, on-road course or parking lot??? If it's a on-road course with other nitro on-road drivers, see what they are using in there cars before you decide one way or the other.... Good luck

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Old 04-12-2005, 09:53 AM   #2924
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Default pic

do anyone has the pic which shows the dino(g4)who steps on the snake (serpent 710)??

thanks
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Old 04-12-2005, 10:02 AM   #2925
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Thanks for the replies.

I'll be racing at www.rcpikeriver.com . It's a small track.

I tried a one-way in my cd3. It was 5 celcius outside and track was dusty -- still not cleaned after winter. I know it's not the best of conditions but i set the brake so that it would not lock up the wheels and the car would spin out. No control in a corner. The other guy testing his car had a diff on the car -- night and day.

I know during the summer in race conditions this may change -- but i'd rather build a diff ( parts are not expensive for a g4) -- and have it on hand just incase.
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