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Old 11-14-2004, 10:55 AM   #2716
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What is the JP-blue based on, is JP a modified version of a factory motor?....which one.
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Old 11-14-2004, 06:25 PM   #2717
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The basic of the JP FX (Blue) is Novarossi NSR, but with JP's spec. Just like RB...
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Old 11-14-2004, 07:09 PM   #2718
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nops......

the JP crakcase is slightly different.......if you try a novarossi piston/sleeve set on a JP engine you 'll burn every glowplug you put there.......

and any novarossi, rex or top is faster than jp......the fx series is simply crap.....
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Old 11-14-2004, 11:41 PM   #2719
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Quote:
Originally posted by SalvadoriRacing
the JP crakcase is slightly different.......if you try a novarossi piston/sleeve set on a JP engine you 'll burn every glowplug you put there.......
Sure?

Quote:
Originally posted by SalvadoriRacing
and any novarossi, rex or top is faster than jp......the fx series is simply crap.....
Not what I've seen...
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Old 11-15-2004, 12:05 AM   #2720
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Quote:
Originally posted by SalvadoriRacing
nops......

the JP crakcase is slightly different.......if you try a novarossi piston/sleeve set on a JP engine you 'll burn every glowplug you put there.......

and any novarossi, rex or top is faster than jp......the fx series is simply crap.....
I have seen 3 different drivers of 3 different abilities with the JP-FX ... it is not crap. They were all 3 port engines and they easily kept up with my Rody and the NSR 5 ports.
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Old 11-15-2004, 09:22 AM   #2721
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Default aluminum servo saver

Bought the new G4 Evo, am I better off to upgrade to the K-factory servo saver and the sliding steering rail mounts or are the stock plastic ones OK. I want to build it right but on the other hand don't want option parts just for the sake of having option parts.
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Old 11-15-2004, 06:12 PM   #2722
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I'm using the K-Factory aluminum ones, but I get rid all of the dust cover for smoother movement.
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Old 11-15-2004, 06:17 PM   #2723
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Default steering

this steering issue has been confusing....I guess the one I have is the latest version with the new K 1481 steering. Correct me if I am wrong, but I uderstand this system does not use the original servo saver or slider system?
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Old 11-18-2004, 04:41 PM   #2724
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Default BRCA 2005 Rules

If you intend to race in the BRCA Nationals next year, the 2005 Rules Amendments for 235mm, Scale Rubber and 200mm Scale Touring classes is now available at 3hobby.com for download.

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Old 11-22-2004, 12:25 PM   #2725
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My original chassis is starting to crack, so I was wondering with costs in mind, should i get the 3racing 4mm chassis, kf 4mm for 35 more, or the kf 3mm one. which one will hold up, and if i get the 4mm will i notice a huge diff b/c of weight? thanks
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Old 11-22-2004, 01:49 PM   #2726
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Quote:
Originally posted by bballer
My original chassis is starting to crack, so I was wondering with costs in mind, should i get the 3racing 4mm chassis, kf 4mm for 35 more, or the kf 3mm one. which one will hold up, and if i get the 4mm will i notice a huge diff b/c of weight? thanks
The 4mm chassis is too hard, it will make your car harded, so it will change your weight transfer.
I think that if the chassis if softer (flexible) like the 3mm, it will give you better traction , due to more weight transfer on the car.
The 4mm is good if you want to go straight with big turns.
I will stay with the 3mm one by K-factory
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Old 11-22-2004, 01:55 PM   #2727
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with the 3mm chassis, what is a good recommendation for shock oil and the shock pistons and springs, running a front one way. One track is a lot of high speed with fairlry fast corners and the other is a tight technical track.
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Old 11-22-2004, 05:18 PM   #2728
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The 3mm are not so durable comapre the 4mm one. Last time my friend broke 2 chassis in 1 race because the front side is cracked just after small hit.
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Old 11-22-2004, 06:53 PM   #2729
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if i get a 4mm chassis, should i get two 3racing ones or 1 kfactory one? im not going to notice a difference as im not that experienced?
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Old 11-22-2004, 07:35 PM   #2730
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3Racing one's is heavier but cheaper...
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