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Old 10-11-2004, 07:30 AM   #2566
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I found the collet come from TM G4 clutch assembly set is not thick enough. Please refer to the attached picture for the comparison of TM collet and STS collet which come with STS engines.
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:33 AM   #2567
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The attached picture is TM fly wheel inserted with the stock collet. The collet totally sit inside the flywheel. Therefore, when you tighten the clutch nut, the flywheel "might not" be tightened as one assembled clutch and there is a chance for the flywheel spins freely.
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:35 AM   #2568
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This attached picture is TM flywheel inserted with STS collet. The STS collet sits tight on the flywheel. The clutch assembly tightened securely with the clutch nut.

Just want to notify all G4 racers. I don't have any bad intention.
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:37 AM   #2569
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Post IFMAR WORLDS

would anyone know if there is a G4 driver at the IFMAR worlds?
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Old 10-11-2004, 08:34 AM   #2570
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Default Re: ATTENTION! New K Factory Steering Arms SUCK!!

Quote:
Originally posted by KMac
I put the new arms on my car about a week ago and have had nothing but problems; no matter what I do the car pushes!!!

I finally put my car on a stand and cycle the steering from hard left to hard right. When I do the left suspension raises up at full lock!?!?!? WTF? So I take the arms off and compare them and lo and behold the geometry on the left is totally different than on the right!?!?!

Does anybody elses' look like this? Surely, they must, unless these are molded in a multiple cavity mold and I got a steering arm from a bad cavity.

Check this pic out:

Notice how the ball ends on the left steering arm (the one on the right in the pic) can't travel as far as on the right arm. This is what is causing the left suspension to lift!!! Also notice how much wider area "B" is than area "A", and how line "C" is tilted much more than line "D".

This SUCKS!!!!!! I can't believe anyone with the new steering arms is getting good performance.

K Factory, you owe some people some new parts!!!!!!!!

Check your front dogbones. The left suspension raised up and locked due to the dogbone is too long. Take out the shim behind the front one way joint cup.

About the steering blocks,I don't think you need so big camber or -5 downstop setting in front....it just does not look so good...

Last edited by dino.tw; 10-11-2004 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:03 AM   #2571
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1. It does it without the dog bone installed.

2. I'm not using a front oneway.

3. When making a hard left turn the suspension raising is acting like a sway bar would and I don't need a sway bar on a short, tight track.

The parts are faulty. Period. No amount of excuses or rationalizatios will make it better.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:14 AM   #2572
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Quote:
Originally posted by KMac
1. It does it without the dog bone installed.

2. I'm not using a front oneway.

3. When making a hard left turn the suspension raising is acting like a sway bar would and I don't need a sway bar on a short, tight track.

The parts are faulty. Period. No amount of excuses or rationalizatios will make it better.
Kmac_Wow, man! Nice catch, but bad for customers. The new V-One RRR hubs are similar in geometry to the new G4 hubs. Try those out. They're only $6. And the steering is incredible.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:36 AM   #2573
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i was just about to order the new steering blocks untill i saw this. Do the ones for the V-0nerrr work with the new steering system?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:08 PM   #2574
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Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
The attached picture is TM fly wheel inserted with the stock collet. The collet totally sit inside the flywheel. Therefore, when you tighten the clutch nut, the flywheel "might not" be tightened as one assembled clutch and there is a chance for the flywheel spins freely.
I had this same thing affect my car (bearing in mind i use a three shoe clutch, not a push).The clutch nut tightens on the collet before the flywheel is secure, so i bought different makes of collet to experiment , but still ended up grinding 0.5mm off the narrow end of them. I use a shim between the collet and the crankcase bearing to push the collet tight against the flywheel. This guarantees the flywheel is secure .
I am very satisfied with my little mod `cos it gives me an excuse to do a bit of grindin` in the Kitchen. Pleases the wife no-end !!
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:14 PM   #2575
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tooned G4
I am at Brooklands Jas and our last meet was almost wet enough for boats.
How narrow are pit20`s . Do they use 24mm rims ?
I have tried Ing rims (& tyres) in the dry but found the rims shattered easily from the slightest knock.I have now gone back to proline wabash as these have a nice amount of flex.
I am going to try thin inserts in 20`s next time.

Any more tips anyone ?
cant help with specific set-up for brooklands, havn't had the pleasure yet, though i'm told it looks like there will be a rubber national there next year

never had a problem with ing rims, if you want a good reliable rim try schumachers they work out alot cheaper than prolines.
for the d20 narrow wets you need 18mm wide rims (i think), schumacher and proline sell them.

thinner inserts should give more grip, with more air gap allows the tyre to warm up quicker
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:17 PM   #2576
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Quote:
Originally posted by budlightnmyhand
i was just about to order the new steering blocks untill i saw this. Do the ones for the V-0nerrr work with the new steering system?

Thanks,
Mike
The G4 was designed using the V-one RR as a guide line ... hence, same bearing sizes, same pulleys, similar belts, etc. The G4 was just a better layout and ahead of it's time.

The new V-One RRR front hub geometry is very close if not exactly the same as the New G4 hubs. I know they will work. I use them in my V-One RR Evo and FW-05R. They're the best hop-ups you can make for better steering.
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:27 PM   #2577
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Your right about us hosting a round of the national rubbers next year.This is good news for our club and also gives me a chance to see how bad my driving really is.
ps - You cant beat the `Sunny South ` (lol!)
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:06 PM   #2578
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so are the V One RRR hubs different than the V-One RR or the V-One RR Evo?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:16 PM   #2579
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Yes. The new RRR front hub is different than the old ones.
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:48 PM   #2580
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tooned G4
Your right about us hosting a round of the national rubbers next year.This is good news for our club and also gives me a chance to see how bad my driving really is.
ps - You cant beat the `Sunny South ` (lol!)
Only national rubber? What about foams?
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