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Old 09-20-2004, 11:37 AM   #2401
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Default CLUTCH SET UP

this topic has probably been addressed to, but there are so many pages to go through, could anyone help me?
I just got the G4 and I have a big race to run this weekend ( no time to experiment). Could anyone tell me the right way to set up my centax. The clutch bell and clutch shoe is a lot smaller than mugen and Kyosho, and I can't seem to get any punch out of the corners.
Help! Help!
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Old 09-20-2004, 03:32 PM   #2402
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you can't get punch b/c the clutch is slipping due to a combination of incorrect spring tension, too light fly weights and high 1st gear ratio.

Not much you can do until you get the new clutch shoe, spring and fly weights.

They are also coming out with new side/brake pulley to help the gear ratio.
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Old 09-20-2004, 04:03 PM   #2403
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The new clutch parts from Kfactory will get it done!
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Old 09-20-2004, 08:40 PM   #2404
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Default clutch

rodney: i was talking about the original clutch, it seemed to be not as strong since 2 of my customers have complained that it had melted. just wish team magic had made one like kyosho v-one clutch which i think is made out of composite. anyways, our team magic orders are arriving soon which includes the new clutch, new steering, new 3mm chassis, new steering blocks etc... do you think the new clutch is stronger than the old ones? also what springs are you using for the front and rear?
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Old 09-20-2004, 08:52 PM   #2405
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Can't tell yet on the strength of the clutch shoe. I am pretty sure it is made out of a different material than the first.

I am running diffs front and rear. I use the stock springs with the front sway bar disabled and the rear at 90 degrees. 37 shore tires all the way around.

I don't think it is the perfect setup but it is very consistent.
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:53 AM   #2406
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
jas1.. I've seen G4's with there stock steering setup drive very well. The two I have drove well for awhile... If you have the stock steering system and all is well.... I would just upgrade and get the new steering blocks for added steering. The steering upgrade/conversion was design for those who had problems with the slider setup and for those who wanted a choice. I made a few extra mods to the bulk head to clear alittle more space to add more throw as well with the new setup. So, if your stock/slider setup is not broken... You can add some more steering with the new steering blocks... Very good investment as well... I'm ordering one more set myself. I'll say this, though, my steering feels quicker with the new steering system, and my car doesn't push anymore exiting turn like it did with you slower slider steering system.... Getting ready for the club race today... Driving against Team Mugen and Team OFNA... So I'm sure Robbie Collins and Mike Swauger from Mugen and Steve Nguyen from OFNA will be there as well...

RC_Alan
RC_Alan:

Comparing the new system back to the old without your bulkhead mods is there more steering or less? And what would it be like with the orginal hubs and the new steering system

Thanks,

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Old 09-21-2004, 09:20 AM   #2407
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I was just wondering if there was a specific reason why everyone runs the harder springs in the rear? Do you also run a little thicker oil?
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:45 AM   #2408
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodneybarrett
Can't tell yet on the strength of the clutch shoe. I am pretty sure it is made out of a different material than the first.

I am running diffs front and rear. I use the stock springs with the front sway bar disabled and the rear at 90 degrees. 37 shore tires all the way around.

I don't think it is the perfect setup but it is very consistent.
rodeney:
i hope the new clutch is stronger... have you had any issues with the thrust bearing? i've already replaced 3 sets of the K Factory thrust bearings, they easily break... now i'm using the thrust bearings of Mugen Seiki and they seem to work very well. do you have high traction at your track? its funny coz i have the exact opposite set-up you have. i disabled the rear sway bars, set the fronts at 90 degrees... 1.9 front springs(shock oil=40wt) and trinity blue springs for the rear(35wt). one-way diff in fronts and rear diff with 10,000wt. i use 42 shore tires all-round. at the track we are running, it drives pretty well and easy on the corners but i think i still need more steering. anyways, i am racing this weekend at a very tight and bumpy track, any set-up advice? happy rc-ing
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:49 AM   #2409
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I think our setups are different due to the fact you are using a one-way. That can change so many things. Haven't done much experimenting with the one-way so I don't think I can be of much help.
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Old 09-21-2004, 12:26 PM   #2410
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you could try 30,000 or 50,000 oil in the rear diff, this should give more steering, i normally run rubber tyres, but when i have run on foams and used 30,000wt the car felt really good, there is also the solid rear axle but i've never tried one

budlightnmyhand - the reason why i have run harder springs on the rear, give much better steering response, and makes the car alittle more aggressive and feels though you can push the car a little harder, although i dont do it on low grip tracks the car tends to loose the the back end. if you try it you'll probably have to turn your dual rate down
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Old 09-21-2004, 12:38 PM   #2411
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Jas1, YGPM
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Old 09-22-2004, 01:14 AM   #2412
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Everyone... Question? Do any of you know if there is a 26 tooth clutch gear that will fit the G4's clutch bell??? The largest which is 25, I already have... If there is one and you know for sure... Please post name and where I can get one... Thanks.

Bundy_Bear.. If you're using the old steering setup and all is well... I would still give the new steering blocks a try.. You'll get more steering by it's design anyway. Your question, is there more steering from the old setup then the new??? To me it's about the same, it's just now more durable then before... Add the new steering blocks and you make turns and tight as a Serpent 710 and Mugen MTX3...

RC_Alan
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Old 09-22-2004, 01:35 AM   #2413
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
Everyone... Question? Do any of you know if there is a 26 tooth clutch gear that will fit the G4's clutch bell??? The largest which is 25, I already have... If there is one and you know for sure... Please post name and where I can get one... Thanks.

Bundy_Bear.. If you're using the old steering setup and all is well... I would still give the new steering blocks a try.. You'll get more steering by it's design anyway. Your question, is there more steering from the old setup then the new??? To me it's about the same, it's just now more durable then before... Add the new steering blocks and you make turns and tight as a Serpent 710 and Mugen MTX3...

RC_Alan
RC_Alan: Thank you for your response. After having my first meet with the car on Sunday i am looking at upgrading to the new steering system. I wasn't sure though if i would loose any steering though. Cleaning the current system and trying to lube those foam dust cover is a real pain in the arse. To me, just to not have to do this any more is a plus

P.S: I managed to get my car sorted from our discussions last week and the car is alot better dialed. The dill behind the controller needs more track time thought

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Old 09-22-2004, 08:29 AM   #2414
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
Everyone... Question? Do any of you know if there is a 26 tooth clutch gear that will fit the G4's clutch bell??? The largest which is 25, I already have... If there is one and you know for sure... Please post name and where I can get one... Thanks.
You can try NTC3 26T 2nd pinion gear. I believe they can fit because NTC3 and G4 use the same clutch bell part number. I haven't tried it before, give me the result
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:07 AM   #2415
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rc_alan: you must be running on a HUGE track to need a pinion like that. Wish I was that lucky.

I think daniz24 is right, the NTC3's are also .8 m and could possibly work.
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