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Old 05-28-2004, 02:51 PM   #1771
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Hi
Could anybody tell me what steering servo gives you the most clearance from the front bulkhead.
Thanks
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Old 05-28-2004, 02:54 PM   #1772
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Quote:
Originally posted by V1R racer
Hi
Could anybody tell me what steering servo gives you the most clearance from the front bulkhead.
Thanks
Futaba S9550 is your best choice
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Old 05-29-2004, 05:44 AM   #1773
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Default servo

THe s9550 is one of the few that fit without making any adjustments.
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Old 05-31-2004, 09:26 AM   #1774
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Default Race Day

Well, I ran the G4 yesterday, it ran well Tq'd over the field by a lap, but I had one Major mechanical problem. My centax disentregrated. I melted the main shoe that the bell housing rides on, ending my day early after two round of qualifying. I have heard of, and had certain problems with the centax on my previos G4, and thought that it was fixed in this kit. My end float was .002 so that was set, and the nut was set to build instructions. Well, I guess that was not right. I am looking into a 4 pin flywheel and new centax assembly. Anyone know the size differences of flywheels? I think mugen or kawahara have the same size as the G4? Let me know.
I received my GPM aluminum hubs on Thursday, and installed them. They worked out nice.

RCNUT, ygm.
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:19 AM   #1775
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Default Re: servo

Quote:
Originally posted by RCNUT
THe s9550 is one of the few that fit without making any adjustments.
May I add.. but the ONLY one that will give you more space to stuffed/organized other thing neatly.
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:03 AM   #1776
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Thanks for the replies, i ran a G4 yesterday instead of my 2 year old V1R and all ill say is im putting the V1R up for sale. This car in standard e-class form is far better than my hopped up V1R.
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Old 05-31-2004, 12:11 PM   #1777
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Default Re: Race Day

Quote:
Originally posted by Vr6vroom
Well, I ran the G4 yesterday, it ran well Tq'd over the field by a lap, but I had one Major mechanical problem. My centax disentregrated. I melted the main shoe that the bell housing rides on, ending my day early after two round of qualifying. I have heard of, and had certain problems with the centax on my previos G4, and thought that it was fixed in this kit. My end float was .002 so that was set, and the nut was set to build instructions. Well, I guess that was not right. .....................
RCNUT, ygm.
This is what Josh Cyrul said about tuning a centax
Hope it helps
AFM

"Proper assembly and set-up of the clutch is one of the most important parts of running a nitro powered vehicle. Many times people have come to me asking why their engine isnít running right or generating the power they want coming off the corners. Over 75% of the time the tune on the engine isnít the problem. They are loosing power because the clutch isnít set-up properly. Here are some building and tuning instructions in order to get your push type/centax clutch to perform like it should so you can get the most out of your nitro engine.
When you put the flywheel on the engine make sure that the flywheel wonít drag on the engine case. Some flywheels require that you place a shim behind the flywheel collet. Put on the flywheel nut making sure to tighten this nice and tight.
Next, put the clutch weights (centrifugal shoes) into the flywheel. These should be clean and with no burs this is important to proper engagement and disengagement of the clutch.
Take the clutch shoe and place it into the clutch shoe ring aligning the holes. Make sure it fits all the way down in the ring. The next thing I always do is check the clutch shoe and ringís fit on the flywheel pins. These should line up and the clutch shoe and ring should move nice and free over the flywheel pins Ė If it doesnít, clean up the holes with an x-acto blade Ė be careful not to take off to much material (and donít cut yourself!!).
Install the spring cup into the clutch shoe, making sure that this is pressed all the way down into the clutch shoe. Slide the clutch spring on and thread on the clutch spring adjuster down so that about .5mm of thread is showing. We will come back to adjusting this for proper engagement laterÖ.
Thread the pinion gears onto the clutch bell. You need to get these tight but donít over do it or you will struggle to get them off if you want to change gears later.
Now is where the clutch set-up comes into play through the rest of assembly. Hereís how I build my clutches to get the most power and drivability out of them. First, Iíll put the clutch bell on Ė WITHOUT Ė the inner bearing and assemble the rest and tighten things down (thrust bearing, thrust bearing retainer, outer bearing). Now, there should be some play in the clutch bell. I usually shim my clutches to have .3-.4mm of end play. Itís recommended if you measure this with calipers or some sort of gauge. Some people shim the clutch behind the flywheel if there is too much end play. I prefer to put shims on the thrust retainer before I put the thrust bearing on Ė this allows me to shim the clutch without taking the whole assembly off the engine.
Once the end play is set to .3-.4mm I will take the clutch bell off and install the inner bearing into the clutch bell. Now, I add shims on to the crank shaft. These are used to space the inner bearing out which pushes the clutch bell away from the shoe. This is very important!!!! The clutch bell needs to be spaced away from the clutch shoe, if it is not then the clutch will always be dragging Ė making your brakes work harder, you will have to set your engineís idle higher since the clutch is dragging the rpm down, creating lots of excess heat that makes the clutch slip and wear out pre-maturely. After adding shims and re-assembling the clutch you should have .1-.2mm of end play left.
After all that assembly is complete I will bolt the engine into my car and fire it up so I can set the clutch spring adjuster. Listen to the engine, listen for the point in which the clutch engages and the tires start to move. When using this type of clutch system you should be applying about 1/8-1/10 throttle when the clutch engages. If you rev the engine (slowly), it zings up to a hi rpm and the wheels arenít moving or itís making a slipping sound (you will know when you hear it!!) then you have the spring adjuster too tight and you need to loosen it. On the contrary, if you rev the engine and the wheels move immediately then you need to tighten the spring adjuster. The engine should have a nice crisp sound all the way through acceleration. If you are used to your clutch you will get the hang of this and be able to do it on the bench. I think the best way to learn is to throw it out on the track and drive a few laps, come in and adjust on it. This will get you used to how much to adjust, the sounds and what your adjustment feels like on the track. A good rule of thumb for clutch adjustment is: if the car moves before you see smoke from the exhaust, your clutch is engaging too soon.

I wish there were exact measurements I could tell you to build a perfect clutch every time, but the small differences in each of the parts requires you to take your time and set-up your clutch step by step".
Be patient and have fun!!!!! Good Luck!!!
Josh Cyrul
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:13 PM   #1778
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Default Re: Race Day

Quote:
Originally posted by Vr6vroom
Well, I ran the G4 yesterday, it ran well Tq'd over the field by a lap, but I had one Major mechanical problem. My centax disentregrated. I melted the main shoe that the bell housing rides on, ending my day early after two round of qualifying. I have heard of, and had certain problems with the centax on my previos G4, and thought that it was fixed in this kit. My end float was .002 so that was set, and the nut was set to build instructions. Well, I guess that was not right. I am looking into a 4 pin flywheel and new centax assembly. Anyone know the size differences of flywheels? I think mugen or kawahara have the same size as the G4? Let me know.
I received my GPM aluminum hubs on Thursday, and installed them. They worked out nice.

RCNUT, ygm.
you can use the kawahara mirco ss centax clutch...but you hve to use back the g4 clutch bell, clutch spring, spring adjuster...it can work...difference is the weight of the flywheel..performance is the same...
my clutch shoe also worn out pretty fast...tats why I'm using the ss mirco clutch...also chk your end play n clutch set up...I hve modified a kyosho red clutch which is able to fit onto the g4 centax clutch n I'm pleased with the outcome.....I'm also getting a friend to get me the material for clutch shoe so that I can get my engineer to come out with some shoe for test.
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:36 PM   #1779
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At the Nationals last year at Revelation, all the Trinity drivers were using clutch shoes machined out of Rulon (the red stuff). I got to run them at that same race and noticed a difference.

It was much better than the stock black material, with less drag and they simply grabbed harder without the clutch feeling "heavy". Unfortunately the rulon shoes seemed to wear a little faster, but that's the price of speed. Maybe worth .1-.2 seconds per lap, but that adds up at a national event.

Also, having run both the Kawahara SS clutch and the stock G4 Centax, I can tell you that performance is not the same, although they both work very well. Kawahara clutch has a much heavier flywheel and teflon shoes, those alone make it act differently.

my $.02
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Old 05-31-2004, 09:11 PM   #1780
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Quote:
Originally posted by wagnerov
At the Nationals last year at Revelation, all the Trinity drivers were using clutch shoes machined out of Rulon (the red stuff). I got to run them at that same race and noticed a difference.

It was much better than the stock black material, with less drag and they simply grabbed harder without the clutch feeling "heavy". Unfortunately the rulon shoes seemed to wear a little faster, but that's the price of speed. Maybe worth .1-.2 seconds per lap, but that adds up at a national event.

Also, having run both the Kawahara SS clutch and the stock G4 Centax, I can tell you that performance is not the same, although they both work very well. Kawahara clutch has a much heavier flywheel and teflon shoes, those alone make it act differently.

my $.02
sorry my fault....the ss feels heavier
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:19 PM   #1781
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Default Stock Pinion Gears?

Hi Guys,

Whats the pinion gears included in the kit? I don't have the car here and I need to order stuff.

Thanks

Sami
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:41 PM   #1782
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Default Pinion Gears

Don't worry found them on the manual

Its 1st Gear: 20T
and 2nd Gear: 24T

Thanks

Sami
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:43 PM   #1783
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Unhappy Alloy Servo saver binding

Hi Guys,

Having trouble with the alloy servo saver binding. I have tried about 3 of them and they all bind. I have followed the instructions by Nick from Team Magic, but it still binds . I have also changed the pins and bulkhead.

However if I try the plastic one its fine. Anyone have any suggestions? I want to run the alloy one.

Thanks

Sami
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Old 06-03-2004, 05:44 AM   #1784
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Default servo bind

Sami,
maybe this will help. Take on of the pins from the bulkhead, preferably the pin without the little guides and install it into a dremel. Now add some light oil to the bushing and pin, slide the pin into the servo saver, and run the dremel on the lowest speed possible for about a minute per hole. Oscilate the saver up and down on the pin, while the dremel is on, you should fell it getting smooth. Now do the other hole the same way. After that is finished, clean the saver, and polish the pins. Reassemble the frt bulkhead and test it out. This method worked for me, my saver falls from side to side without hesitation, and minimal slop.
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Old 06-03-2004, 03:11 PM   #1785
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Default Re: servo bind

Quote:
Originally posted by Vr6vroom
Sami,
maybe this will help. Take on of the pins from the bulkhead, preferably the pin without the little guides and install it into a dremel. Now add some light oil to the bushing and pin, slide the pin into the servo saver, and run the dremel on the lowest speed possible for about a minute per hole. Oscilate the saver up and down on the pin, while the dremel is on, you should fell it getting smooth. Now do the other hole the same way. After that is finished, clean the saver, and polish the pins. Reassemble the frt bulkhead and test it out. This method worked for me, my saver falls from side to side without hesitation, and minimal slop.
I thought there was supposed to be a little tightness in the side to side movement
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