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Old 05-14-2004, 10:18 PM   #1576
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There's no hacking to get a regular sized digital servo. Most likely you will have to shave the rear of the right front bulkhead about a millimeter or two. Everybody has to do that. Plus your brake pad might be rubbing on the brake pulley pin. That has to be shaved a bit also with a dremel.
On the steering setup. You must take your time to get this right. After everything is assembled come back to the steering. Remove your bottom front kingpins and move your bottom arms out so that you can adjust and test your steering setup. Make the rails tight for less slop. The rails have to be perfectly parallel to each other for smoothness on both sides of the servo saver. Then constantly test the smoothness for left and right turning.
There are a few other steps, but I just gave you the abbreviated method. Others may have an easier or more thorough method of getting the G4 steering right.

There are some more methods earlier in this thread and here.
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/phpBB2/index.php
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Old 05-14-2004, 10:40 PM   #1577
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I pretty much got the steering setup just right. Nice and tight and slides just right.
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Old 05-15-2004, 04:06 AM   #1578
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To get my KO 2174 (I think that's the name =) ) working in the G4 i had to warm the servohorn with a heating iron and bend it against the servo so the ballend could not hit against the bulkhead.
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Old 05-15-2004, 07:58 AM   #1579
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In reply to the evo 2, i have heard that it s a great engine at a good price. I think rcnut has them at rcnutshobbies.com
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Old 05-15-2004, 06:36 PM   #1580
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edit - keep this in the web links forum ONLY
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Last edited by TSR6; 05-16-2004 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 05-15-2004, 08:02 PM   #1581
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aggdaddy
There's no hacking to get a regular sized digital servo. Most likely you will have to shave the rear of the right front bulkhead about a millimeter or two. Everybody has to do that.
I have managed to mount my servo linkage without shaving anything from my bulk head, what I did was replace the ball end with one of those open ball end. I have also replace all the balls and ball ends that connect to the steering kunckle to the kyosho unit and the whole system is really smooth.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:03 PM   #1582
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Quote:
I have also replace all the balls and ball ends that connect to the steering kunckle to the kyosho unit and the whole system is really smooth.
Joehwee-That's a good one didn't even think of that. I also converted the rear ball ends (I hate ball ends). I was thinking I have GPM aluminum hubs for the rear but on the Kyosho V one RR and Evo there's what's called a M1RR conversion. It's basically the mugen rear hub. The reason that's it's converted it's easier and adds more rear camber. The "RRR" adapted to it. And it can be done to the G4 if wanted. As stated if I didn't have the GPM's I'd do it. Here's some of the pics of the Mugen knuckles.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:03 PM   #1583
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Well I picked up my new ride this afternoon, along with a new REX RER12, TM Fuel filter, low friction belts, and futaba 9550 from Brooklyn Hobbies today. Call it official, I am back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Upon assembling the car so far, I have noticed quite a few changes from the original kits.
First, it comes with tires, a adapter plate for your starter box.
Second, gone are the little green orings for the cups, TM added shims behind the drive cup on the backside of the inner bearing,.
Last, the steering!!!
I admit I had a little bit of cinfusion when asmebling it, rails were smooth by themselves, but after you put it together it was no good. After about a hour of scratching my heaad i had a mental lightning storm( you should have seen it), the K factory aluminum sterring post mounts have a nipple that is suppost to fit in the bulkhead as per the instruction. No matter what i ahd done this method of assembley was not working. So what I had done was flip the mounts over so the smooth side faces the bulkhead and the nipple acts as a stop. Now, you should really be here to beleive me what I am about to tell you all. The steering is like BUTTER!!!!!!!! It is so free that if you turn the chassis on its side the servo save under it own weight move the entire travel of the posts, in both directions. I was shocked. The I was so happy with these results, that I packed it up for the night. Tommorrow is a new day.
I hope this helps, and I will keep you all posted on my new findings.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:04 PM   #1584
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:18 PM   #1585
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Hey Nitropimp,

I was looking at your pictures and was wondering if you know that the large o-rings on the shocks go inside the spring collar.

There should be a thin o-ring used to seal the shock.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:37 PM   #1586
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Aggdaddy- Thanks I was wondering about that when I built the car.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:42 PM   #1587
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no problem NitroP. I didn't notice until somebody told me about that too. I also installed my rear hubs backwards according to the manual, but my car still drives good. So I haven't changed them.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:48 PM   #1588
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Aggdaddy- Let me get this cause I'm a little confused. The 502127 "O" ring is the bigger one? It's suppose to go inside the shock??? I can't get the bigger "O" ring inside. Can you take a pic to show me???


thanks,
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:49 PM   #1589
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I thought you guys might like to see the track I race at.
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:50 PM   #1590
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one more
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