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Old 05-11-2003, 11:30 AM   #1
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Default Interesting breakin method

i have always been used to the idle a couple tanks rich, then blip a couple around rich. then take it easy till the tenth tank or so. this method has worked pretty well over the engine i had. a week ago this guy bought a new S3 and he was idling it half way through the first tank then this guy comes over and says, "hey let me show you a quicker way to break it in" he full throttles the engine and continues to screw out the high end needle till it was almost falling off. so the engine was running at full throttle but it was soooo rich it sounded like it was ripping through the fuel and it was just almost pouring out of the exhaust. temperatures were around 130-140. at first i thought that cannt be right but then i thought about it and i dont know.... this guy has had a bunch of engines and they seem to run fine. what do u guys think ?

Last edited by compuatic; 05-11-2003 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:15 PM   #2
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I'm sure it works, but I still like to take a litte more time breaking in my engines. I run them a bit lean during breakin so that the piston and sleeve will break in a bit faster, but still very safe on the engine.
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:15 PM   #3
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There are about as many break-in methods as there are cars on the market. A few years ago it was sugested that you idle a few tanks before you run the car on pavement. This method was very effective, but took time (slow break-in). Times change. As manufacturing methods and materials change, so did the method of break-in. The best method I have found is to idle the car on a stand, with the wheels off the ground for about 3 or 4 minutes. Repeat 3 more times or until you have run about 2 tanks of fuel. Then you can run your vehicle on the track at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, for 4 more tanks. You can then start to lean out the engine. This method takes about an hour and a half (gradual break-in). I don't know of any manufactures that recomend running the vehicle a full throttle, running that rich. Heat is a big part of break-in, and by running that rich, I doubt the engine is broken in properly. The other method of break-in is to run your car on the track, slightly rich, for about 1 minute for the first few runs, then gradualy increasing the run times with each run.
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:22 PM   #4
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I agree with nitro dipstick. you ask 20 people how to break in an engine and you will get 30 answers. I've read in some places where it tells you to run your car like you were racing while breaking it in, but keep it rich while doing so. for my hpi rs4 rtr3 it told me to run 2 tanks very rich at idle. then 4-5 tanks going no more than mid throttle. then after that to start leaning it out for about 10 tanks. here is an interesting article about engine break in:

http://www.rc411.com/howto/enginebreak-01.html
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:27 PM   #5
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I read from one of the major engine manufactures that the best way to break in is wide open and very rich. He said he did it with a propeller (7x4) to keep the RPM down. The reason was at wide open you are on the high speed needle only, and that is how you get the best lubrication...very rich.
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:39 PM   #6
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actually the purpose of my post was not to ask how to break in an engine or which is the correct way. it was to discuss this very interesting method of wot very very rich.
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:42 PM   #7
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I have also heard of breaking in an engine on a bench with a propeller. I don't recomend this method because of load. Even when you run the engine at idle there is a load on the engine. If you break your engine in on a bench with a propeller, when you put it in the car the load will be greater and your setting will be off. This is an older method of break-in and assumes you can break-in your engine the same as in an airplane. Some engines still come with a airplane style, cast aluminum head. Cars have different loads, and use different fuels, so there are different break-in methods.
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Old 05-11-2003, 06:43 PM   #8
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While most manufactures have said idle it for a few tanks and go up front there, idling doent make much sense. when you break in a real car you want to keep the rpm's changing, not at one speed, you would think the same would hold true for rc engines.

and you do want heat, however you want to make sure its well lubed.

however in break in all you are doing is wearing out the parts basically, however you want to do it to an acceptable amount so that they are all evenly worn together.
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Old 05-11-2003, 07:48 PM   #9
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There's basically two ways to break in an engine, quick and cold, or a warm extended breakin. Reason being, if you do at lower temps (130-160) the metal doesnt expand as far, and it wears on the parts faster. There's nothing wrong with this method, and it will take about 5-6 tanks. However, I think getting it up to running temp (200+) and running it for 10-15 tanks is better. This way the metals expand more, and it essentially wears in the parts slower and more gradually. This method, I have found, leaves engines with more "pinch" at TDC for a longer period of time, so the engine ends up lasting longer. Just my $0.02.
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Old 05-11-2003, 07:59 PM   #10
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The serpent breakin bench uses the prop style for breaking in. This method has some advantages:

1. It is fast.
2. Reduced load. The biggest problem with running it in the car is putting too much load on the engine. The bearings and rod bushing should be broken in with as little stress on these items as possible.

Disadvatage. It is VERY easy to screw it up.
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Old 05-11-2003, 11:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
The serpent breakin bench uses the prop style for breaking in. This method has some advantages:

1. It is fast.
2. Reduced load. The biggest problem with running it in the car is putting too much load on the engine. The bearings and rod bushing should be broken in with as little stress on these items as possible.
I prefer to place a load on the engine after a single tank and heat-cycle with the piston @ BDC. This way, the entire drivetrain can also break-in and free up, too.
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Old 05-11-2003, 11:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
I prefer to place a load on the engine after a single tank and heat-cycle with the piston @ BDC. This way, the entire drivetrain can also break-in and free up, too.
In a new car makes sense. In my old beat up V1R it needs no more drivetrain breakin

I can break a motor in on a prop in around 15-20 minutes. Cant beat that. You can really jam the fuel thru at WOT

I define broken in when that gritty feeling goes away from TDC when you turn the motor over by hand.
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