Flame outs,,, My MT-12 is driving me nuts!11
 

hey guys i need some serious help. I bought a new MT-12 turbo a while back. broke it in perfect and ran it in a car for maybe 1/4 a gallon. no poblems. i sold the car and kept the engine in a ziplock for maybe 6 months. now a week ago i installed it in a new car. one thing i changed was the crank. i installed a new crankshaft (SG) because i had cut my original and couldnt use it with the new car. The crankshaft i got is made for the HPI novarossi engine. fits no problem... one difference is that it doesnt have a swoosh in the back of it like the original one does. now the problem is getting the engine to run right. here are the symptoms

1. i cannt get the engine to idle without the glow igniter. as soon as i take it off it will die
2. the engine will often just flame out irregardless if throttle
3. i can get the engine to stop flaming out if i lean out the midrange needle but then its running too lean
4. this is my 9th engine and have tunned tons of engines, so its not lack of tunning skill

symptoms are almost like a bad glow plug. i tried a new one (number 5) and its the same crap. i think 5 is the hottest plug made right? this is my first turbo engine and im thinking of just getting a normal button and using a trusty old MC59 plug. but then again it was running fine 6 months ago.... :flaming: :flaming:

Whose plug are you using? I've read some posts from Rody Roen (the "R" in RB) and he claims that Nova based engines work best with Nova plugs, so he recommends Rex, Novarossi or RB plugs, since they are all Novarossi plugs. Does the engine run, then the idle starts going wierd or raising up? If so, that can be an indication of an air leak somewhere. My suspicion is that the engine is running very lean. You might try cleaning the carb out really well with some nitro blast spray. I've had oil collect around the needle and in the fuel inlet after storing engines over the winter. A good cleaning works wonders for me. I load my engines up with 3 in 1 oil before storing them in ziplock bags, so they're pretty well oiled up when I take them out. Hopefully it's just something simple like that.

psycho, im using a Top plug. there are no tone changes before it cuts out. it will be idling smooth no problem then all of a sudden poof. i think ill try cleaning out the car and see what happens. i doubt thats the problem because all needles do their respective job. you never know though, ill definately clean the carb and start from scratch needle settings.

does anyone recall the stock needle settings for the MT-12?

I had the same problem with my MT12 Turbo... I finally found that buy changing buttons and going with a std plug the problem went away... and I chased the problem for weeks...

shim the head and check your o rings in the carb..they may of dryed up on you..

i have the same problem with the s3 and s1's my cure was to run the bottom lean and and keep the top rich! once you cleaned out your carby set it to these settings

bottom end: 1 1/8 from in

top end: flush with outer brass tubing

mind: have it set flush with outer carby barrel, but my s3 wont run properly at all unless i run it a little leaner than usual, remember every carby could be made different and each needle require a different setting than any other.

use this info below it is very help full.


Hot glowplug guarantees a better adjusting of the engine at low RPM while the cold glowplug gives a better performance at high RPM. If you have a cold glowplug on your engine and have difficultes to keep it regular at low RPM, we advise you to make the base speed a little higher. In case the engine goes out again, we advise you to replace the above mentioned glowplug with a cold one; these difficulties in the carburation aren't due to a bad running-in of the engine but to anomalous climatic and meteorological conditions (see high degree of humidity, altitude, low pressure, etc...).

Technical specifications of turbo glowplugs
Turbo glowplug was conceived to give to the engine higher performance and it is available in 8 versions: 4 hot and 4 cold.You find here with a description schedule that gives to the drivers the possibility to choose the suitable glowplug according to the situation he is operating.

here is a recomended novarossi turbo glow plug chart for temps and correct plugs:


Type Features Nitro % Increase
performance Outside
temperature
C.5 TC Hot with hot
filament 10-20% + 10% from 5°
to 10°
C.6 TC Hot with average
filament 10-20% + 8% from 5°
to 20°
C.7 TC Hot with cold
filament 20-30% + 6% More than
20°
C.8 TC Hot with very
cold filament 20-30% + 5% More than
20°
C.5 TF Cold with hot
filament 20-30% + 15% from 10°
to 20°
C.6 TF Cold with average
filament 20-30% + 13% More than
20°
C.7 TF Cold with cold
filament More than
20% + 12% More than
20°
C.8 TF Cold with very
cold filament More than
20% + 10% More than
30


jeremy





:D :D

the problem with getting a standard button is than no one has em in stock !!!!! i just did some retuning and i think jeremy's method might have worked. low end very lean and close the idle screw to bring down the RPMS. ghigh end pretty rich. middle slightly in from flush. the engine will idle no problem but will over heat because of the lean low end. once i run it on the track it shouldnt over heat because it wont be sitting in the lean region of the powerband. ill find out later today.

what car exactly you using??? once you get it on the track you could even richen the bottom a little! remember with the mid its only for adjusting the spray pattern of the mid carby needles and i really use it for fine tuning on the track.

Did you clean the complete carby out???

Jeremy.:D

yeah i sprayed down the carb with alcohol but didnt take it apart. anyway i ran the engine today for at least 15 tanks with good results. the first two were very painfull and required lots of tunning back and forth. after a couple more tanks i got it tuned alot better. i am not sure how that happened but the engine slowly started to cooperate. maybe it needed running becaus it was left for such a long time. maybe the carb cleaned itself in the process. more tunning and three or four tanks later i had it running pretty well. temps at around 235 which hotter than what i like but that seemed to be the temperature the engine liked. this is in a NTC3. one thing i know for sure... no more turbo engines. i still believe it is turbo related... thanks for every body's help

turbo plug?
 

why do you think it is turbo plug related my only experience with turbo plugs has been good,on the other hand changing crankshafts (as i have done) seems to be a problem as i am having trouble tuning an engine with the same probs as you seem to be having but im reluctant to tune my motor as has been said on this thread as i havent come across a nova that needs to be that lean on the bottom end that said if that is the only way to get the tune it is a compromise and doesn't seem to say much for the novas compatability for the crankshafts and the new piston&liners(s3)

when i say compatability i mean no one(from my parts) seem to know what crankshaft can be used on what motor as well if the p&s(s3) will work on the motor yeah it willfit but will it work

BT, my experience from turbo is that the engine doesnt give you a hint of whats going on. if its rich it dies, if its lean it dies with same responce, no clear distinguishment. at least this is what i seem to see.

I see what you mean about the plugs, although i said i havent had any probs i do know off people who have they were constantly chasing the tune mostly idle they replaced the plug and button & didnt look back hope you sort it out my comments on the s3 p&s to s1 seem to be unfounded and i finally got mine sorted thanks to this thread.

i more than happy to help you guys out!:D

jeremy.