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Old 07-20-2009, 01:11 PM
  #1081  
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Drew,
Have you played with the 3 pin clutch anymore?
Any thoughts?

Dale
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:28 PM
  #1082  
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If I'm the one your referring to than YES. I have stayed with .4mm shoe to bell clearance at this time. Have only had the time to try different sized drilled holes and spring tension.
At this point I would drill one set to say 3.6?(it's an English sized bit) or 3.75 mm. and another set at 4.0mm or the English equivalent.
This clutch is much smoother than the 4 pin. However as traction builds I will always have a 4 pin ready. Wham Bamm THANK YOU MAMA!
I'm running a MAX POWER XL9, 16/49 first. It is summer time here in Florida so we are running on tracks that have not seen alot of racing, but have seen alot of rain and the azzfualt temps are running a close third place to Arizona and Hell. With the MSR spring, .4mm gap and the 3.75 drilled shoes spring tension has hovered around .7 to .9 . Very drivable and not eating shoe's.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:11 PM
  #1083  
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew
If I'm the one your referring to than YES. I have stayed with .4mm shoe to bell clearance at this time. Have only had the time to try different sized drilled holes and spring tension.
At this point I would drill one set to say 3.6?(it's an English sized bit) or 3.75 mm. and another set at 4.0mm or the English equivalent.
This clutch is much smoother than the 4 pin. However as traction builds I will always have a 4 pin ready. Wham Bamm THANK YOU MAMA!
I'm running a MAX POWER XL9, 16/49 first. It is summer time here in Florida so we are running on tracks that have not seen alot of racing, but have seen alot of rain and the azzfualt temps are running a close third place to Arizona and Hell. With the MSR spring, .4mm gap and the 3.75 drilled shoes spring tension has hovered around .7 to .9 . Very drivable and not eating shoe's.

HA HA............ It ws only 117 today, but the pool was a nice 84.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:35 PM
  #1084  
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When drilling the holes, are you using the outer dimple mark to drill the hole?

Last edited by Boz; 07-20-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:36 PM
  #1085  
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew
If I'm the one your referring to than YES. I have stayed with .4mm shoe to bell clearance at this time. Have only had the time to try different sized drilled holes and spring tension.
At this point I would drill one set to say 3.6?(it's an English sized bit) or 3.75 mm. and another set at 4.0mm or the English equivalent.
This clutch is much smoother than the 4 pin. However as traction builds I will always have a 4 pin ready. Wham Bamm THANK YOU MAMA!
I'm running a MAX POWER XL9, 16/49 first. It is summer time here in Florida so we are running on tracks that have not seen alot of racing, but have seen alot of rain and the azzfualt temps are running a close third place to Arizona and Hell. With the MSR spring, .4mm gap and the 3.75 drilled shoes spring tension has hovered around .7 to .9 . Very drivable and not eating shoe's.
where are you drilling? is it in one of the mark spots? thanks
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:11 PM
  #1086  
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Flyweights Questions :

Do you guys use : ultra light weight ( 4mm holes ), light weight ( 3mm holes but original mugen seiki ), normal ( no holes, solid ) ?

My friend one time said to me : I should consider to use normal flyweights ( no holes, solid ), more punch he said. I'm currently using light weight version ( 3mm holes ), and I feel the punch is mild ( eventhough I already use ultra hard spring 1mm depth )

What do you think guys ?

Last edited by asw7576; 07-21-2009 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:51 AM
  #1087  
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Friends:

My LHS still runout of protoform 909, so my next alternative probably Blitz Lola R09.

Is BLITZ LOLA R09 body good to use ?
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:30 AM
  #1088  
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew
If I'm the one your referring to than YES. I have stayed with .4mm shoe to bell clearance at this time. Have only had the time to try different sized drilled holes and spring tension.
At this point I would drill one set to say 3.6?(it's an English sized bit) or 3.75 mm. and another set at 4.0mm or the English equivalent.
This clutch is much smoother than the 4 pin. However as traction builds I will always have a 4 pin ready. Wham Bamm THANK YOU MAMA!
I'm running a MAX POWER XL9, 16/49 first. It is summer time here in Florida so we are running on tracks that have not seen alot of racing, but have seen alot of rain and the azzfualt temps are running a close third place to Arizona and Hell. With the MSR spring, .4mm gap and the 3.75 drilled shoes spring tension has hovered around .7 to .9 . Very drivable and not eating shoe's.
Thanks for the reply, Yea, its hot and muggy here in Houston also, but not
much rain this summer. Gulf Coast raceway has re-surfaced their track and
we have been running quite a bit of practice the last two weeks preparing for
the SWS series race this coming weekend.

I also have tried the 3 pin clutch using your suggestion from your previous
posting of one 3.5 mm hole put near the end of the flyweight, msr spring, .4 mm gap, spring tension at .82. The clutch is indeed very smooth. I am running
a Murnan Flash 21 with a 16/50 First gear. However, I will more than likely run
an aggressive 4 pin clutch at the SWS series race this weekend. Our track is
tight with some fairly long short chutes. You really need the bottom end grunt
to get out of the corners. The traction on this fine grain asphalt is very good
now with just a few people running on it with no sugar water. I'm sure with a
few more cars running the track the traction will be insane.

Thanks for your help,
Dale
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:00 AM
  #1089  
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The Dimple farthest away from the hole for the flywheel pin. Drill by hand, no power tools. The flyweight will fit snug on the flywheel pin when new. Do not ream it. After the first run the flyweights will fit perfectly.
Lighter flyweight will require more engine rpm to enguage the clutch. Higher in the power band, more "punch" It will also have less stored energy behind it because it is lighter. More slip, easier to drive.
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:33 PM
  #1090  
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew
The Dimple farthest away from the hole for the flywheel pin. Drill by hand, no power tools. The flyweight will fit snug on the flywheel pin when new. Do not ream it. After the first run the flyweights will fit perfectly.
Lighter flyweight will require more engine rpm to enguage the clutch. Higher in the power band, more "punch" It will also have less stored energy behind it because it is lighter. More slip, easier to drive.
great info thanks for answering the question
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:15 AM
  #1091  
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@asw7576


Yes, go for the Blitz body. We had a major race here on my local track and the Blitz R09 set TQ against a strong field equipped with Zytec´s and P909´s.
I suggest to mount it 15mm in front of bumper.
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:25 AM
  #1092  
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Friends:

My LHS still runout of protoform 909, so my next alternative probably Blitz Lola R09.

Is BLITZ LOLA R09 body good to use ?
Who makes this body?
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:40 AM
  #1093  
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Default Toledo Setup

Hey,

Anyone have a setup for Toledo?
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:27 PM
  #1094  
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Got some p.m.'s for pic's
Yeah the pics stink, but you get the idea
Attached Thumbnails MRX-4X-07-22-09_2008-2-.jpeg   MRX-4X-07-22-09_2011.jpeg  
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:34 PM
  #1095  
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Can any one tell me the difference in handling from going to a lighter shock oil in the front, compared to staying with the same weight oil, and moving the shocks inwards one hole.
Right now I am using Mugen 600 front, 800 rear. Mugen white springs front and rear
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