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Old 05-05-2003, 01:02 AM   #1
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Default Help to tune a Collari X12

I'm trying to get my Collari X12 engine not to stall. It would stall if you try to move off after more than 10 secs of idle. When I tried to lean the low end a little more, it would overheat. I've tried using the R/B carb also but no success. So I'm putting back the Collari carb since it has worked well once before - I recall having one very good explosive session. By the way, this engine has run 15 tanks so far.

Now, I'm believeing that this is a "touch and go engine" - come into 5 secs refuel and out.

Your tuning advise is appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2003, 01:31 AM   #2
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Just a comment, but if it worked well once or as you put it "I'm putting back the Collari carb since it has worked well once before - I recall having one very good explosive session" it probably is not "a touch and go engine " especialy if you have also tried a Nova based carb. Probably has more to do with your tuning. I have seen a lot of guys run them up her in N. Cali and they are blistering. Any ideas guys on how to help this guy?
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:53 AM   #3
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all I can say to you is good luck!

...I myself had a Collari XS12 engine sent to me for a review, did all the break in etc etc. The thing was a missile whilst it would stay running (usually about 3 minutes)

What it basically boiled down to (cheesy eh?)was that once the engine reached operating temperature it would just flame out, and no amount of tuning, adjusting, or fiddling with would fix it.
It never overheated.

I tried everything, and I mean everything, different plugs, different fuel, different carb,pipe, head shim settings, clutch settings and gearing and had no luck in fixing the problem.

From what I could tell, it seemed to me like the liner expanded more than the piston when it got to proper temp (like 240f), and when this happened the engine lost almost all its compression.

I goy myself another engine , to not sound biased I wont thell you what it is (not collari) , the difference is chalk and cheese, this thing will just Idle away, doesn't get hot or flame and produces a heap of power, also very easy to tune.

Once again, good luck, and if you get it working properly let me know, I'd be interested in finding out how you fixed it!

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Old 05-05-2003, 03:34 AM   #4
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Sadly, SP Racer stated a little more reality than what I've gone thru. Though I did one good session with it, now I'm beginning to wonder if X12 would last a 30mins to 45 mins race + qualifying sessions.

PMT, can those guys you mentioned make the engine last without stalling? Perhaps there is some hope? Ill give X12 another chance after breaking in my new Nova engine.

How can one make and sell a engine like that????
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:55 AM   #5
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I have had no problems with mine. Humor me and try this for carb setting. Hi-4 low-6. Run it and let us know. JEFF
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Old 05-05-2003, 10:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sp Racer
all I can say to you is good luck!

...I myself had a Collari XS12 engine sent to me for a review, did all the break in etc etc. The thing was a missile whilst it would stay running (usually about 3 minutes)

What it basically boiled down to (cheesy eh?)was that once the engine reached operating temperature it would just flame out, and no amount of tuning, adjusting, or fiddling with would fix it.
It never overheated.

I tried everything, and I mean everything, different plugs, different fuel, different carb,pipe, head shim settings, clutch settings and gearing and had no luck in fixing the problem.

From what I could tell, it seemed to me like the liner expanded more than the piston when it got to proper temp (like 240f), and when this happened the engine lost almost all its compression.

I goy myself another engine , to not sound biased I wont thell you what it is (not collari) , the difference is chalk and cheese, this thing will just Idle away, doesn't get hot or flame and produces a heap of power, also very easy to tune.

Once again, good luck, and if you get it working properly let me know, I'd be interested in finding out how you fixed it!

Seal the back plate with RTV silicone, the top screws go through the crankcase, and if the two surfaces aren't perfect it can pull air thru the top holes. I have seen the exact same problem and fixed it. The special taper of the sleeve is part of what makes this engine so fast, only feels like low compression.
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Old 05-05-2003, 07:48 PM   #7
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Hi JCTC3,

What is Hi-4, Low-6? Is it 4 turns from close position for hi and 6 turns for low? I figured the needles may pop out, no? Sorry I didn't catch you. Once I understand this, I definitely will try it.

Hello OB42TC3,
Will try out your tips. Are you saying I should clean the heatsink, plug head, screws and assemble again to fix possible surface matching issues.

Thanks guys for the help.
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Old 05-05-2003, 08:16 PM   #8
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I live in N. Cali and have been racing me and a few other "team" drivers have been running the Picco based motors for over a season now. I am the only one with the Colari name, but the other two guys have been running their Piccos without any problems. I would be glad to help but I need a little info from you first:

1.) What plug?
2.) What fuel? What percent nitro?
3.) How many head shims?
4.) What alttitude do you live at?
5.) What are you needle setting now.
6.) Do you have the new one piece carb or the two piece screw together carb.

Let me know so I can give you a hand.


PMT what tracks do you run at in Nor-Cal? Do I know you?
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Old 05-05-2003, 09:05 PM   #9
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Yes that would be from closed position. Remember to open the slide carb when turninig in the lo speed needle to prevent damage to you spray bar. I already assumed you had the new carb, it's the one with a taperd alumiunum boss where the fuel banjo fitting and hi speed needle atach to.Jph will also be able to give you honest advice, again let us know if anything works. JEFF
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Old 05-05-2003, 09:15 PM   #10
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Readjust your clutch to match your low end needle setting. Start by adjusting your clutch so it will engage at a higher RPM then begin with 2 turns at the low end and gradualy lean it.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by JPHRacer
I live in N. Cali and have been racing me and a few other "team" drivers have been running the Picco based motors for over a season now. I am the only one with the Colari name, but the other two guys have been running their Piccos without any problems. I would be glad to help but I need a little info from you first:

1.) What plug?
2.) What fuel? What percent nitro?
3.) How many head shims?
4.) What alttitude do you live at?
5.) What are you needle setting now.
6.) Do you have the new one piece carb or the two piece screw together carb.

Let me know so I can give you a hand.


PMT what tracks do you run at in Nor-Cal? Do I know you?
1. Nova C7Tf.
2. Gammalube 25%.
3. Comes with 0.2+0.1mm. I added another 0.1mm since I see plug coil deformed.
4. Sea level.
5. high needle 3.5turns out. low needle 4 turns out.
6. I have the one piece carb.

I'm from Singapore. Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:36 PM   #12
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Well, I dont use any of the nova plugs so I cant help you on that one but if you can I would get a McCoy MC8 or MC59. The only real thing that I see worng is the fact that you added head shims. I am running just the .1mm in all my motors. In my opinion I allways run the lowest squish band possible, smallest gap between piston at TDC and the head button. If your having problems going through plugs then changing the compression ratio is not the way to do it. Go to a colder plug, but lowering the compression ration and rasing the squish band is just taking away HP. I would try running the motor with just the .1mm shim, running a MC8 plug or a colder nova plug and go from there. You might even need to richen the mixture on the top a little. We all run between 3.75-4.25 turns out on the top end. The bottom end I just tune by feel and sound. I never adhear to any specific needle settin tuning the motor by ear is the best way to find out if everything is ok.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:06 PM   #13
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Thanks guys for the advise and tips. Looks to me like there is some hope. If I can't get Mcoy plugs over here, will go coldest plug nova. I will be trying out X12 again after breaking in my Nova. Will keep all posted. Thanks again.
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Old 05-06-2003, 08:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Romeo156
Thanks guys for the advise and tips. Looks to me like there is some hope. If I can't get Mcoy plugs over here, will go coldest plug nova. I will be trying out X12 again after breaking in my Nova. Will keep all posted. Thanks again.
hello mr keong,
so u coming back to play 1/10 again, mtx3? retire yr mrx3 so soon?

alan.
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Old 05-08-2003, 01:42 AM   #15
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Hello Friend,
Yes, motivated by:
1. Friends
2. Realism of Saloon shell
3. MTX3 smoothness,beauty n performance.
4. New RM Track.

Cannot retire from MRX3. Too much thrill in the Formula one of RC! Trouble is time and balancing between the two is difficult. Now will do 1/10 for the next two weeks, then work on the collari that the guys in this forum has rendered fantastic support!

Kiong.
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