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Old 08-25-2007, 08:17 AM   #16
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thanks for all the cool infomation,...


i am confuse about the nitro percentage, for example, i was told ifmar require 1/10 nitro engine to use on 16% nitro where as 1/8 can use 25%

but my local guys here all use 25%,

so my question, to prolong engine life, which do i use? 16% or 25% ?

more power is 25% offcourse....
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:51 AM   #17
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Then in my opinion you did do something wrong or used the wrong fuel....
I agree!! I have used WOT method for about 10 years now with excellent results. I have one engine in my fleet that is over 5 years old ( rebuilt once) a still running. For fuel, I always use 15% airplane fuel with around 18% oil. All were concerned with here is making the engine run. The 15% works fine and helps get the engine up to temp. Also the extra oil helps keep break in particles in suspension and get them out of the engine. An early post said that the primary reason for break in is to heat cycle the parts. Not quite true. Primary function of break in is to cone shape the piston to "fit" the tapered cylinder bore. If after break in you piston still sticks at TDC, you not finished braking in.
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:54 AM   #18
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Please be clear, I only use airplane fuel for break in only.......when racing, I use the REAL stuff ....30% and alot less oil.
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Old 08-25-2007, 01:33 PM   #19
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These are true but try driving in a parking lot because you don't want to all out on ur engine tune so u can get around the track good
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Old 08-25-2007, 01:43 PM   #20
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I agree!! I have used WOT method for about 10 years now with excellent results. I have one engine in my fleet that is over 5 years old ( rebuilt once) a still running. For fuel, I always use 15% airplane fuel with around 18% oil. All were concerned with here is making the engine run. The 15% works fine and helps get the engine up to temp. Also the extra oil helps keep break in particles in suspension and get them out of the engine. An early post said that the primary reason for break in is to heat cycle the parts. Not quite true. Primary function of break in is to cone shape the piston to "fit" the tapered cylinder bore. If after break in you piston still sticks at TDC, you not finished braking in.
yea, but you want to "cone" the piston near operating temp (like at least 160F- 200F).... not 120F. if you cone the piston at 120F then when everything expands at 200F you have a pile of crap.
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Old 08-25-2007, 02:21 PM   #21
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yea, but you want to "cone" the piston near operating temp (like at least 160F- 200F).... not 120F. if you cone the piston at 120F then when everything expands at 200F you have a pile of crap.
As I did mentioned before the it is not needed to get to operating temperature with first tanks, lubrication and low rpm is more important to take care off. After the first tanks then it will be more important to tune the engine slowly to the operating temperature because then the piston will go more to the shape of the cylinder..
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:46 PM   #22
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As I did mentioned before the it is not needed to get to operating temperature with first tanks, lubrication and low rpm is more important to take care off. After the first tanks then it will be more important to tune the engine slowly to the operating temperature because then the piston will go more to the shape of the cylinder..

we agree that we disagree there's more than one way to skin a cat.

running an engine cold is the silliest thing your could possibly recommend to anyone for a break in. it just beats the rod to death and "prematurely" wears in the piston to a cold sleeve- and then when you run it at operating temperature it will be looser than my method and closer to end of life in its sealing capability. I can have tons of lubrication and get any temperature I want during break in with my milled head and some foil tape..... 160F is my minumum break-in temp.

you really need to break in these engines near the temp you will run them at...... even in Hudy's break-in bench it is part of the instructions. Ever read a NovaRossi break-in procedure? It doesn't say to break it in cold.
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:12 PM   #23
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When we break in the Team engines we never let the engine run below 200 degree's during the break in. We will not even start the engine till it has reached 180 degree's. I do not know about the using the airplane fuel for break in I have never tried but I run the same fuel as it is going to run. If the person who is breaking in the engine "preheats' the engine then the amount of lubrication wil be just fine and you do not need to run extra oil, less nitro, all the above. There are 1 million different ways to run the engine in. And I think that the single most important is to allow the engine to get the a rather standard temp. Preheating it before you start and keeping it reasonably hot while doing so. The parts are expanded and there is not a friction issue when cold. Lasts longer, runs faster.
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:27 PM   #24
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When we break in the Team engines we never let the engine run below 200 degree's during the break in. We will not even start the engine till it has reached 180 degree's. I do not know about the using the airplane fuel for break in I have never tried but I run the same fuel as it is going to run. If the person who is breaking in the engine "preheats' the engine then the amount of lubrication wil be just fine and you do not need to run extra oil, less nitro, all the above. There are 1 million different ways to run the engine in. And I think that the single most important is to allow the engine to get the a rather standard temp. Preheating it before you start and keeping it reasonably hot while doing so. The parts are expanded and there is not a friction issue when cold. Lasts longer, runs faster.
ditto that

I preheat to at least 175F because by the time you get the ignitor on it, the temp has dropped a touch. heat is key in breaking in these engines with the tapered sleeve fit.

I break it in with whatever fuel I'm going to run it with.... usually with one extra 0.1mm shim.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:01 AM   #25
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ditto that

I preheat to at least 175F because by the time you get the ignitor on it, the temp has dropped a touch. heat is key in breaking in these engines with the tapered sleeve fit.

I break it in with whatever fuel I'm going to run it with.... usually with one extra 0.1mm shim.
make sure you do the same thing with aac piston and sleeves. also never let them above 180 during break in
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:35 AM   #26
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we agree that we disagree there's more than one way to skin a cat.

160F is my minumum break-in temp.
There is the funpart of all breaking in processes, 99% is not based on what has to happen on material level but of how people think what is right or what great names in this sport are telling to do. As example the are still a lot of people thinking the engine at 1st tank idle will stay cool because you gain no power from it or it will run to hot because you are not driving with it an so no airflow. And if you do it you will see it will be close to operating temperature.
The 160 degrees you mentioned I calculated to Celcius and you are talking about 71 degrees. That is easy to get with any kind of WOT methode.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:49 AM   #27
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i dont do the wot way anymore.
1st tank idle
2nd 1/4 throttle
3rd same
4th same
5th same
6th 1/2
7th on the track rich
8th start to lean and so on and so on and so on

the 1st 3 tanks hair drier on the motor to keep temp up. now i know someone is going to say something bad about that.
my ninja is stupid fast.
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Old 08-26-2007, 01:49 AM   #28
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You are correct regarding the hair dryer thing, IT"S WEAK!! use an Industrial heat gun J/K
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:33 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
There is the funpart of all breaking in processes, 99% is not based on what has to happen on material level but of how people think what is right or what great names in this sport are telling to do. As example the are still a lot of people thinking the engine at 1st tank idle will stay cool because you gain no power from it or it will run to hot because you are not driving with it an so no airflow. And if you do it you will see it will be close to operating temperature.
The 160 degrees you mentioned I calculated to Celcius and you are talking about 71 degrees. That is easy to get with any kind of WOT methode.

I've used the bone stock WOT method from Cyrul and the engine will not see over 120F without some help........ if you follow the directions. At 120F you are just beating the rod the death and prematurely wearing the piston in to a cold sleeve, setting you up for failure when everything gets to operating temp under race tune.


I'm not doing what any "great name" told me to do. I've come up with my own modded WOT method when I'm in an extreme hurry, and my more preferred, trusty bench method outlined above; both with great success.

TK.... my 2000W hairdryer will heat an ice cold engine to 180F in about 1 minute. The industrial guns will ruin o-rings if you are not careful. They are good, but some people get carried away. The nice little 2000W hairdryer can be had for about $12 at any retail chain store.... I don't know about the heat gun?

I'm on vacation for a few day...... fishing. Them damn fish are smarter than all of us put together
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:47 AM   #30
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....slap motor in car......run slightly rich.....then lean as needed after a few tanks.......letting motor idle for break in is a waste of time and fuel..........ic engines need a "load" to be broken in properly......ie. running in car..........heat case with heat gun before firing first time to expand case and liner and return to BDC when motor dies after a run.........
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