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Old 08-06-2007, 01:20 PM   #1
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Default Pocket Scales for Tweak???

I need to get a tweak station of some kind, and I was thinking of ordering 2-4pocket scales for the job. If I had two I would have to do front/rear separately, or with four I should be able to do the entire car all at once. I can get 500g/0.1 scales on ebay for around $20 each.

Anyone have any thought on this, and do you think the 500g's would be enough?

thanks
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:59 PM   #2
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The four scales sounds nice and I considered it myself but I thing it would be more of a PIA than it's worth. It's only advantage over a standard tweak station would be balancing the car left to right and front to back. You can balance the car with the Hudy or the new Irang balance tools. They're cheap. A regular tweak station will be much easier to set up and use on a day to day basis at the track.
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:03 PM   #3
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The four scales sounds nice and I considered it myself but I thing it would be more of a PIA than it's worth. It's only advantage over a standard tweak station would be balancing the car left to right and front to back. You can balance the car with the Hudy or the new Irang balance tools. They're cheap. A regular tweak station will be much easier to set up and use on a day to day basis at the track.
It's probably overkill, but as long as I set it up on a level it setup board it seems like it would be as easy as a normal tweak station, plus it wouldn't cost much more than the Mip tweak station. I'm probably guilty of over-thinking/over-engineering....

The only way to get the Hudy tweak station is with the Ultimate setup and I'm not willing to spend the $300 to get it. I'm not familiar with Irang, where is this available?
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:06 PM   #4
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only get two, it will be more accurate...

the chassis could be leaning to one side, but still give even readings on the scales because the weight may still be centered. instead, use a block to raise one end of the chassis (like you were measuring droop) so that the chassis sits perfectly level, oh, and make sure your tweak board is level too, I use the built in spirit level in my integy board all of the time. then, with the chassis level, put the opposite 2 wheels on the scales so that the scales read the pressure that the wheels place on the chassis, not on the other wheels. if the suspension is very tweaked though, the chassis might sit crooked on the blocks, so make sure the chassis at least sits flat. I'm content with just making sure the roll-bars and droop settings are without tweak, then lifting one end of the chassis up and see which side of the chassis sits lower. the scale system is by far more accurate though and I highly recommend giving it a try if you are serious about getting your car as even and tweak free as possible.

that wasn't a very detailed explanation, if you would like me to explain it a bit better just say, I would be happy help.
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:19 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jamezracer View Post
only get two, it will be more accurate...

the chassis could be leaning to one side, but still give even readings on the scales because the weight may still be centered. instead, use a block to raise one end of the chassis (like you were measuring droop) so that the chassis sits perfectly level, oh, and make sure your tweak board is level too, I use the built in spirit level in my integy board all of the time. then, with the chassis level, put the opposite 2 wheels on the scales so that the scales read the pressure that the wheels place on the chassis, not on the other wheels. if the suspension is very tweaked though, the chassis might sit crooked on the blocks, so make sure the chassis at least sits flat. I'm content with just making sure the roll-bars and droop settings are without tweak, then lifting one end of the chassis up and see which side of the chassis sits lower. the scale system is by far more accurate though and I highly recommend giving it a try if you are serious about getting your car as even and tweak free as possible.

that wasn't a very detailed explanation, if you would like me to explain it a bit better just say, I would be happy help.

Only two would be great Do you use the method seen in this article?http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=2&page=3

thanks for the input guys.
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:39 PM   #6
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Only two would be great Do you use the method seen in this article?http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=2&page=3

thanks for the input guys.
that's a pretty good article, I guess I do use that method after reading it. I used to use an integy tweak board like the one in that article, but stopped as it is just something else to carry to the track. as you can see in the article, you make sure the car is balanced first, as the idea of getting rid of tweak is to get the car flat and if the weight of the car is off, it will push down on the suspension unevenly making it seem as if the car was tweaked, this is why you use the standoffs. if you are getting scales, make sure they can measure the full weight of your car if you wish to make sure you meet weight regulations, I have one that goes up to 3 or 4 Kg which cost about 15$ on ebay, then one which goes up to 300g which was the same price. I use the small one for non-rc stuff mostly, but it is good for measuring out electronics parts or comparing alu/steel/titanium screws. now I can't stop using the bigger scale, esp after I realized that my car was 20g underweight!
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:39 PM   #7
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If I were to get two, would two 1000g be sufficient beings I'm only weighing one end of the car at a time, or should I get two 2k scales?

The 1kg's are very compact and inexpensive vs. the 2kg's from what I'm finding on Ebay.
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamezracer View Post
only get two, it will be more accurate...

the chassis could be leaning to one side, but still give even readings on the scales because the weight may still be centered. instead, use a block to raise one end of the chassis (like you were measuring droop) so that the chassis sits perfectly level, oh, and make sure your tweak board is level too, I use the built in spirit level in my integy board all of the time. then, with the chassis level, put the opposite 2 wheels on the scales so that the scales read the pressure that the wheels place on the chassis, not on the other wheels. if the suspension is very tweaked though, the chassis might sit crooked on the blocks, so make sure the chassis at least sits flat. I'm content with just making sure the roll-bars and droop settings are without tweak, then lifting one end of the chassis up and see which side of the chassis sits lower. the scale system is by far more accurate though and I highly recommend giving it a try if you are serious about getting your car as even and tweak free as possible.

that wasn't a very detailed explanation, if you would like me to explain it a bit better just say, I would be happy help.
I'd be interested in a bit more detail. Is your car balanced left to right 50/50?
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Old 08-07-2007, 10:30 AM   #9
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First you disconnect the dampers and use some setup rims. Place the car on a setup board and setup blocks and the rims on the scales, in this way you can adjust the anti rollbar:

Front:


After chaging:


Rear:


After changing:


Connect the dampers and set the springtension. The base formula is LeftFront+RightRear = RightFront+LeftRear
But the ideal situation is LeftFront = RightFront and LeftRear = RightRear
But if the car is not in balance you can use the formula for the ideal situatio with the same difference

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Old 08-07-2007, 05:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royfan33 View Post
If I were to get two, would two 1000g be sufficient beings I'm only weighing one end of the car at a time, or should I get two 2k scales?

The 1kg's are very compact and inexpensive vs. the 2kg's from what I'm finding on Ebay.
go for the 1kg

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamMan View Post
I'd be interested in a bit more detail. Is your car balanced left to right 50/50?
I have never checked the left/right weight balance as it isn't particularly important. modern cars are designed to be as close as you need out of the box, try putting a 5g weight on one side of your car and see if you can feel the difference :-P what does matter is if the chassis is leaning to the side. therefor, the only way to super accurately (and rly easily) measure the force each corner exerts on the chassis is to directly measure just that. use the blocks to remove one of the ends of the car from the equation, then while the chassis is level, use the scales to measure what force the wheels are exerting. does this help?
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