OS Engine
03-30-2003, 09:40 AM
#1
OS Engine
Hi,
I have a OS TR turbo and I really have problem running the engine.
1) the engine has this so-called midrange needle, is it necessary to adjust it? Or will adjustment of the Top end and idle needle be enough?
2) My engine idle well, Rather rich. When I throttle lightly the engine went well, but when I try to throttle hard,(full) the engine cuts.
3) As I couldn't run the car at full throttle, I ran the car at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, but as I ran the car for a while and brought the car back in, the idle seems to become rather lean. What happen?
4) The egine has perform well before. And many people on the track were impressed by the punch of the engine. Unfortunately, another person has accidently adjusted the needle setting and now it is all... f type. Is there a way to return the setting to factory setting? I tried what the manual recommends, but it is not effective. Please let me know how I can set the engine to perform again. Thank you.
I have a OS TR turbo and I really have problem running the engine.
1) the engine has this so-called midrange needle, is it necessary to adjust it? Or will adjustment of the Top end and idle needle be enough?
2) My engine idle well, Rather rich. When I throttle lightly the engine went well, but when I try to throttle hard,(full) the engine cuts.
3) As I couldn't run the car at full throttle, I ran the car at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, but as I ran the car for a while and brought the car back in, the idle seems to become rather lean. What happen?
4) The egine has perform well before. And many people on the track were impressed by the punch of the engine. Unfortunately, another person has accidently adjusted the needle setting and now it is all... f type. Is there a way to return the setting to factory setting? I tried what the manual recommends, but it is not effective. Please let me know how I can set the engine to perform again. Thank you.
03-30-2003, 10:04 AM
#2
Do not adjust the mid-range
The stock settings I believe are 2-1/2 on the bottom and about 4on top
Dont worry about the low end until you have the top end adjusted 1st.
Ask someone at you're Track to help or goto you're LHS.
The stock settings I believe are 2-1/2 on the bottom and about 4on top
Dont worry about the low end until you have the top end adjusted 1st.
Ask someone at you're Track to help or goto you're LHS.
03-31-2003, 05:41 AM
#3
Hi,
When you say 2 and 1/2 bottom. does it mean 2 and 1/2 from the top edge of the needle?
And what is 4 on top?
When you say 2 and 1/2 bottom. does it mean 2 and 1/2 from the top edge of the needle?
And what is 4 on top?
03-31-2003, 07:15 AM
#5
Originally posted by mckrooz
He means 2 1/2 turns out. Close the needle til it stops, then back it out 2 1/2 turns.
He means 2 1/2 turns out. Close the needle til it stops, then back it out 2 1/2 turns.
ok, I will try that, but that seems to put the 'screw' very deep in. But the user manual recommends only 0.5 mm from the edge
03-31-2003, 07:21 AM
#6
Does it say in the manual? On my CV-R, it says for the low end, you have to make the screw flush, then screw it in 2 turns. It may be the same for you on the low end. The high end has to be set with the needle started at the bottom. Mine calls for 2 turns out.
03-31-2003, 07:37 AM
#7
Originally posted by mckrooz
Does it say in the manual? On my CV-R, it says for the low end, you have to make the screw flush, then screw it in 2 turns. It may be the same for you on the low end. The high end has to be set with the needle started at the bottom. Mine calls for 2 turns out.
Does it say in the manual? On my CV-R, it says for the low end, you have to make the screw flush, then screw it in 2 turns. It may be the same for you on the low end. The high end has to be set with the needle started at the bottom. Mine calls for 2 turns out.
For my case, the low end(metering needle) is supposed to be flush with the edge.
For the mixture control valve or the midrange, it is 1.5 turns from the edge and for the high end needle valve, it is 2 turns from the closed position.
So, my original question was, what could have been a good setting for the midrange needle. When I set it according to what is stated in the manual, the engine will not start.
03-31-2003, 07:47 AM
#8
I set the midrange to exactly what the manual suggested on my .12TR. At first it didn't want to start up but after a bit of fine high and low needs tuning, it finally started to work (and now is a rocket). I've noticed my OS likes a lean setting; I think my low end is about a turn and a half in, and my high end is about a turn and 3/4's out. Also make sure your servo's aren't opening the carb any more than is recommened by OS manual. If you engine is cutting when you give it a little of throttle, then it's probably starving for high end fuel. If it cuts with that "rich" sound where it kind of bogs, you wanna lean out the high end. I would agree with Tennessee that you shouldn't play with the low end needle till you have the high end adjusted correctly. When I started with my OS, I kept it set as the manual suggested. Hope this helps you out.
03-31-2003, 07:49 AM
#9
The midrange needs only adjusts how far the carb is opened when it's "closed". You only want to work with the low end and the high end needles.
03-31-2003, 07:56 AM
#10
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
I set the midrange to exactly what the manual suggested on my .12TR. At first it didn't want to start up but after a bit of fine high and low needs tuning, it finally started to work (and now is a rocket). I've noticed my OS likes a lean setting; I think my low end is about a turn and a half in, and my high end is about a turn and 3/4's out. Also make sure your servo's aren't opening the carb any more than is recommened by OS manual. If you engine is cutting when you give it a little of throttle, then it's probably starving for high end fuel. If it cuts with that "rich" sound where it kind of bogs, you wanna lean out the high end. I would agree with Tennessee that you shouldn't play with the low end needle till you have the high end adjusted correctly. When I started with my OS, I kept it set as the manual suggested. Hope this helps you out.
I set the midrange to exactly what the manual suggested on my .12TR. At first it didn't want to start up but after a bit of fine high and low needs tuning, it finally started to work (and now is a rocket). I've noticed my OS likes a lean setting; I think my low end is about a turn and a half in, and my high end is about a turn and 3/4's out. Also make sure your servo's aren't opening the carb any more than is recommened by OS manual. If you engine is cutting when you give it a little of throttle, then it's probably starving for high end fuel. If it cuts with that "rich" sound where it kind of bogs, you wanna lean out the high end. I would agree with Tennessee that you shouldn't play with the low end needle till you have the high end adjusted correctly. When I started with my OS, I kept it set as the manual suggested. Hope this helps you out.
But What i don't understand about the engine is that it seems to lean itself out, after running for a while. But If I do more than 1/3 throttle, the engine will run fine without cutting.
03-31-2003, 07:57 AM
#11
Originally posted by mave
I kind of agree with you that the OS engine likes a lean setting. Even though my engine cuts when I give it more throttle. It is very easy to restart. As if it is a push button-start engine.
But What i don't understand about the engine is that it seems to lean itself out, after running for a while. But If I do more than 1/3 throttle, the engine will run fine without cutting.
I kind of agree with you that the OS engine likes a lean setting. Even though my engine cuts when I give it more throttle. It is very easy to restart. As if it is a push button-start engine.
But What i don't understand about the engine is that it seems to lean itself out, after running for a while. But If I do more than 1/3 throttle, the engine will run fine without cutting.
03-31-2003, 08:09 AM
#12
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
The midrange needs only adjusts how far the carb is opened when it's "closed". You only want to work with the low end and the high end needles.
The midrange needs only adjusts how far the carb is opened when it's "closed". You only want to work with the low end and the high end needles.
03-31-2003, 08:50 AM
#13
If you take a side angle look @ your OS, you should have 3 needles there. There should be one on top, where the fuel line connects to the motor, you should have one on side below the high needle. This is the needle you need to set "flush" with block and then about 1.5 - 2 turns in. Then you have a needle in the middle, that is sticking out and is small and black. This is the throttle adjustment needle, as you said. You want to set this per the instruction manual (I think it said .5mm or something along those lines). After adjusted, this needle DOES NOT need to be adjusted again. You only need to work with the "high" needle and the "low" needle. Set the "low" needle to what the manual recommends and then work with the high end needle. Once you get your engine running properly, you can start adjusting the low end needle for smoother acceleration and better idling.
Always remember that once your engine has started running, its temperature shouldn't vary much between running on the track and just sitting and idling (my OS runs best in the 240-270 degree F range). I'll explain more about this when you get your engine running decently...
Anyway, if you engine is cutting when the throttle is wide open, you're either starving the engine of fuel or getting too much fuel to it. Does it sound like its bogging when it starts or does it just stop running?
Always remember that once your engine has started running, its temperature shouldn't vary much between running on the track and just sitting and idling (my OS runs best in the 240-270 degree F range). I'll explain more about this when you get your engine running decently...
Anyway, if you engine is cutting when the throttle is wide open, you're either starving the engine of fuel or getting too much fuel to it. Does it sound like its bogging when it starts or does it just stop running?
03-31-2003, 08:56 AM
#14
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
If you take a side angle look @ your OS, you should have 3
.....
...
Anyway, if you engine is cutting when the throttle is wide open, you're either starving the engine of fuel or getting too much fuel to it. Does it sound like its bogging when it starts or does it just stop running?
If you take a side angle look @ your OS, you should have 3
.....
...
Anyway, if you engine is cutting when the throttle is wide open, you're either starving the engine of fuel or getting too much fuel to it. Does it sound like its bogging when it starts or does it just stop running?
I lost one miserable retaining pin.
Will keep you posted
03-31-2003, 09:03 AM
#15
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
.....
Anyway, if you engine is cutting when the throttle is wide open, you're either starving the engine of fuel or getting too much fuel to it. Does it sound like its bogging when it starts or does it just stop running?
.....
Anyway, if you engine is cutting when the throttle is wide open, you're either starving the engine of fuel or getting too much fuel to it. Does it sound like its bogging when it starts or does it just stop running?
about your last question, the engine does not sound like it is bogging when it start. It just start up with a light bump from the starter. It is very easy to start the car
Once started, it does not cut. it keep idling, but when i start running it, it cuts as soon as i gas it more than 1/3 throttle. But if I keep it below that, I can run the full tank without cutting.