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Old 07-10-2007, 09:12 PM   #31
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I must say I like the porting.
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:19 PM   #32
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crank shaft coating(Swiss Nano) is available in GR

no wear out shaft pin.
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:48 PM   #33
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gansei,

You went to Femca 2007 in Indonesia? Which car your driving if I may ask. How much is the 3 port OS engine from you. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:06 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post

crank shaft coating(Swiss Nano) is available in GR

no wear out shaft pin.

the crankshaft looks very clean, smooth and nicely done.

whats the white color you used to create the turbo scope.

Is that any where we can order that crankshaft from you.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:18 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2 View Post
gansei,

You went to Femca 2007 in Indonesia? Which car your driving if I may ask. How much is the 3 port OS engine from you. Thanks
yes, i went to Femca 2007 in Indonesia.

my car is G4S. i ranked 16th in Heat, 21th in Final.

But it was very difficult race for me.. it was my first oversea race

and i could not find proper car setup..


and. i am not GR engine dealer.. only GR driver..

you can buy it in E-bay (start price is 199.99 USD)
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:23 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thamjk View Post
the crankshaft looks very clean, smooth and nicely done.

whats the white color you used to create the turbo scope.

Is that any where we can order that crankshaft from you.
it is transparent silicon.

for buy it... pls contact handpiece by PM

i am not GR employee.. only GR Driver..


GR homepage (english version) is under construction..

http://www.grracing.co.kr (Korea version) is available..
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:48 AM   #37
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this is GR TOP TS12 engine's Driving Movie in last year

http://flvs.daum.net/flvPlayer.swf?vid=cVTDtrRmK7A$

yellow car is GR engine car.

But GR engine have more power in Team Version
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:19 AM   #38
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handpiece,

you got pm
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:30 PM   #39
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Do the engines normally go for $200?
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bozla View Post
Do the engines normally go for $200?
yes.. But GRracing discount OS TZ for public relations.
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:08 PM   #41
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Default 12TZ-5(P) Team MOD + Hard black coated crankshaft


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Old 07-16-2007, 05:10 AM   #42
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Hi ,

I have recevied my engine. Great service. This engine looks like master of piece. What for a break-in did you prefer. Pls let me now? Is this engine % 25 nitro ready ? Should I shim the head?

thnx
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:54 AM   #43
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Break in and Driving fuel => 25% OK!

Head shim

Break in => 0.3mm

More than 30% => 0.3mm

25%~30% => 0.2~0.25mm

20%~25% => 0.1~0.2mm

16%~20% => 0.1mm

Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:54 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handpiece View Post
Break in and Driving fuel => 25% OK!

Head shim

Break in => 0.3mm

More than 30% => 0.3mm

25%~30% => 0.2~0.25mm

20%~25% => 0.1~0.2mm

16%~20% => 0.1mm

Thanks.

@handpiece .Ok. How about break-in. What is the break-in methode for this engine?

@gansei : what for a break in did you prefer
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:34 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIMRI View Post
@handpiece .Ok. How about break-in. What is the break-in methode for this engine?

@gansei : what for a break in did you prefer

1 when starting a new engine follow the set up instructions first! Start the engine and let idle at a moderate speed for two or three minutes. Then shut it
down and let it cool for a few minutes. Be sure the piston is not at the top. Repeat this procedure three or four times.

2 Now run the engine on the track, making sure the engine is rich. You should hear a “four cycle” sound. Be sure to let off the throttle going down the
straightaway once or twice so the engine is not straining in its rich condition. Repeat this procedure for three or four tanks of fuel, letting the engine
cool several minutes between tanks. Also, check the glow plug often. It should look new (shiny wire that is not distorted).

3 You can now start leaning [turn clockwise] the maximum needle a little at a time in one hour increments [imagine the needle like the hour
hand of a clock] checking the glow plug often. [I use a glow igniter with a meter on it] I recommend running a few more tanks a little on
the rich side before “Race tuning” When tuning for maximum performance [Race tune] adjust until engine will reach Good RPM then open
needle 1/8 to 1/4 turn.


4 set the low end or idle:

4.1 After getting top end set close, bring model in, listen to the idle. If it is idling fast then it slows down in a few seconds, it is probably
too RICH on the bottom (minimum spray bar). In that case, make it more lean (turn clockwise ¼ turn), then run another lap and
bring the car in again.

4.2 Repeat this procedure until the idle stays high for at least 10 to 20 seconds; at this point readjust the aircrew so the idle is at a
moderate speed. The wheels should not turn, and the clutch should be fully disengaged.

4.3 If you had to turn the minimum spray bar in more than two or three more turns recheck the slide adjustment! [Picco Torque
carburetor only]

5 you may need to repeat steps 3 and 4 several times to achieve the “perfect tune”
Be patient. Tuning is the hardest part of gas racing, and is the first secret to race winning results. If you are a beginner, it is highly
recommended that you ask your hobby shop or an experienced modeler for help.


Three last tips

1 Be sure engine is warmed up before tuning
2 always tune from rich to lean. When in doubt, richen up the maximum needle (top end)
3 If you have to turn minimum spray bar (low end) in more than three to four turns from flush, it is a indication the slide adjustment is too loose and
needs resetting (Picco Torque carburetor only).
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