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Old 04-25-2003, 10:51 PM   #31
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wet bed

Last edited by DanielSon; 04-09-2007 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 04-25-2003, 11:40 PM   #32
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I am interested in a titanium rod for my motor. If I am spending a lot more on a modded motor why wouldnt I want a stronger rod with a better bushing material and about the same weight? It makes sense to spend a little more to help keep my motor together longer and reduce the number of times I have to buy a new rod. Will it work? Is it better? The real test of anything is on the track in the hands of us... uh... not too smart (at times) racers
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Old 04-26-2003, 09:41 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by rrgt_kid
well that pic doesent look like you ran your motor at normal temp and under normal running coditions. or it was a runaway! by the way is that from a 3.5 motor???

jeremy
This is what happens when you don't keep track of how much fuel has gone through your engine! The rod is supposed to be replaced every 3-4 gallons, but I was having so much fun I forgot. It was an RB WS7 buggy engine, my first big-block, broken-in normally, normal running temps were in the 240-260F range. Not a runaway, but it did temp over 320F a couple of times thanks to an air leak. The leak was located and sealed, but I strongly suspect that the rod lost its temper (sorry, bad pun!) and was weakened. I immediately knew that something was wrong the day I turned it over on the starter box:

*Ting-ting-ting*

Oh s**t.

It is awaiting a new rod, piston and sleeve set, and every tank that goes through the REX P5 that is now in the XR is carefully accounted for, you better believe it!
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Old 04-26-2003, 10:10 PM   #34
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Default oh yea!!

for those of you who are lucky enough to experience real horsepower, will have also experienced a higher failure rate in rods, say compared to over the counter engines which sounds like most of you got.
I cant post picks but i have several rods in at least 3 pieces,
all giving way in different places.
Infact the last rod broke in 2 places before going through the side of the case, made a nice (POP) right infront of the drivers stand heard by many including the guy who said it would blow.
Now when I pulled this engine apart the i found the bush still intact wraped around the pin.
Now if that is not rod failure then could some rocket scientist please tell me what is.
Getting back to the origin of this thread,
if any one knows of any after market suppliers of rods for
PICCO 12s, regardless wether its t1234567890 alloytittyanusum,
it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for those of you who have mentioned some manufactures
and for those of you with the theries please keep them coming but try not to aim them beneath the belt, its informative reading so keep it that way.

Cheers

Alex.K
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Old 04-27-2003, 08:42 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by kickass
for those of you who are lucky enough to experience real horsepower, will have also experienced a higher failure rate in rods, say compared to over the counter engines which sounds like most of you got.
I cant post picks but i have several rods in at least 3 pieces,
all giving way in different places.
Infact the last rod broke in 2 places before going through the side of the case, made a nice (POP) right infront of the drivers stand heard by many including the guy who said it would blow.
Now when I pulled this engine apart the i found the bush still intact wraped around the pin.
Now if that is not rod failure then could some rocket scientist please tell me what is.
Getting back to the origin of this thread,
if any one knows of any after market suppliers of rods for
PICCO 12s, regardless wether its t1234567890 alloytittyanusum,
it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for those of you who have mentioned some manufactures
and for those of you with the theries please keep them coming but try not to aim them beneath the belt, its informative reading so keep it that way.

Cheers

Alex.K
kickass,can you post some picks of these rods so we can get a better understanding of where they're breaking,also are these modded collaris?
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Old 04-28-2003, 03:23 AM   #36
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Default picks??

Sorry JUN cant post picks, dont have a digital camera or scanner or any picks for that matter.
cant afford one cause i go through too many bloody rods.

So can any one out there tell me where i can buy aftermarket rods for my collari ??????????????

"CMON WORLD:!!!
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Old 04-28-2003, 03:26 AM   #37
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Default DANIELSON

DANIELSON I have pmd you mu email if you can send me some info .

Cheers
Alex.k
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Old 04-28-2003, 03:50 AM   #38
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Is the cost of rod replacement realy that much? Ti rods may well be the go in your case Kickass... but for 99% of racers, we dont use our baddest engine at club meets....

Danialson.... Go make your Ti rods.... but before you do.. give RCRage a call.... he used to distribute Dennis's engines and later got into modifications of his own... he has done all the book work on Ti rods.... even offered them.... 95% sure he stopped as they were not cost effective.


Also... you have to have a weak link. Rods are cheeper than cranks.

Or are you suggesting you will also be manufacturing a Ti crank?
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Old 04-28-2003, 05:33 AM   #39
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wouldnt it make sense for a manufactuer to put a brass bushing in because it has less friction and because its easier to replace a conrod then a whole crank shaft due to the crank pin wearing out??
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Old 04-28-2003, 06:37 AM   #40
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It does make more sense. I am not sure on the prices of all motors or Rods and Cranks in America but hypothetically would you rather put in a $20 rod or a $70-$80 crankshaft?
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Old 04-28-2003, 06:42 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
Is the cost of rod replacement realy that much? Ti rods may well be the go in your case Kickass... but for 99% of racers, we dont use our baddest engine at club meets....

Danialson.... Go make your Ti rods.... but before you do.. give RCRage a call.... he used to distribute Dennis's engines and later got into modifications of his own... he has done all the book work on Ti rods.... even offered them.... 95% sure he stopped as they were not cost effective.


Also... you have to have a weak link. Rods are cheeper than cranks.

Or are you suggesting you will also be manufacturing a Ti crank?
I normally only run a standard RB in club meetings and keep my good engines for Championship rounds.

As for Ti rods I dont think they are beneficial for engine use. Why? Ti is not the best conductor of heat. It stores excess heat causing the engine to not function at its full potential. A rod here or there will not make too much difference but when Ti Cranks start appearing then all you will have is a really high revving cooker (good for keeping the hands warm on those colder days) that will detonate after a few months
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Old 04-28-2003, 08:53 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
Is the cost of rod replacement realy that much? Ti rods may well be the go in your case Kickass... but for 99% of racers, we dont use our baddest engine at club meets....

Danialson.... Go make your Ti rods.... but before you do.. give RCRage a call.... he used to distribute Dennis's engines and later got into modifications of his own... he has done all the book work on Ti rods.... even offered them.... 95% sure he stopped as they were not cost effective.


Also... you have to have a weak link. Rods are cheeper than cranks.

Or are you suggesting you will also be manufacturing a Ti crank?
obviously somebody somewhere wants to start it all over the learning and lesson process althought there were somebody did that before.


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Old 04-29-2003, 01:08 AM   #43
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Your generalization about aluminum yeild streangth is not correct. For cheap and weak alluminum you might get a yield streangth that low, but 7068 with a T6511 temper has a yield streangth of 99ksi. Most con rods use 6061 and they have a yeild of 37-41 ksi. 7075 would be a much less expensive alternative to 7068 with a rating of 73-76 ksi. Titanium is not the awnser that everyone is looking for unless you looking to spend some major $'s in R&D. Better bushings and a better aluminum is the awnser. One of the worlds greatest motor builders has said on a number of occasions of how ti rods were tried with no gains in any HP or durability. The only reason why anyone is going through rods left and right is becaus the motor is over revving. Build some more HP lower in the RPM ranges and gear the car up a tooth. Your problem will be solved. Or do what Mark Pavidas did for the sedan world cup and ditch the picco for a motor that will last, al la Nova...

But if your still concentrating on ti, here a some others that I would consider:
Ti-6Al-2Sn-4Zr-6Mo

This to my knowledge, I am a little rusty on areospace materials, is stongest titainum allow that has open market exposure. It has a yeid streanght of about 190 ksi, and an average density of 4.68 g/cm cubed. which works out to about .171 lb/cu.in. which is fairly light for high streangth titanium alloys. You will be hard pressed to find any that is lighter. To my knowledge GE uses the alloy for Turbines and stator housings as well as intake compressor fans and internal turbine compressor blades. It has a melting range of about 3000* f. so I dont think that there is any problem with thermal breakdown in our little motors.

Besides molding costs, why not molded composit connecting rods? They could be twice as light as aluminum and stronger than titanium. Just a though.
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Old 04-29-2003, 06:30 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by JPHRacer
One of the worlds greatest motor builders has said on a number of occasions of how ti rods were tried with no gains in any HP or durability.

JPHRacer,which tuner are you talking about?
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:37 PM   #45
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Dennis Richey.
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