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Old 04-22-2003, 10:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Its just something my dad learned from his years of racing when the AMPS Rapier (first nitro car with fully independent suspension) came on the scene. I have never seen or heard of anyone else using this technique especially around here and nobody knew until now that we did this as we always test in private.

It really helps with set up as you can work on each aspect of the car one step at a time to make sure everything is set up properly. It really works wonders as I can break hard with a one-way while in the corner without the rear end snapping out.
Yeah but then as soon as you're introduced to the wall all the work is for nothing. I just as soon set up the car by the book and adjust from there using the book setup as my base.
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Old 04-22-2003, 10:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Its just something my dad learned from his years of racing when the AMPS Rapier (first nitro car with fully independent suspension) came on the scene. I have never seen or heard of anyone else using this technique especially around here and nobody knew until now that we did this as we always test in private.

It really helps with set up as you can work on each aspect of the car one step at a time to make sure everything is set up properly. It really works wonders as I can break hard with a one-way while in the corner without the rear end snapping out.

Well thank you sir for divulging this! I have felt I've had cars close to perfect on tweak and still can only use the slightest brakes with one-way. I always use one-ways, even on tight tracks, but if only I could brake I could manage passing so much better. I will try this technique when I have the time to break down the mtx.
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Old 04-23-2003, 09:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by RedScorp
Yeah but then as soon as you're introduced to the wall all the work is for nothing. I just as soon set up the car by the book and adjust from there using the book setup as my base.
True, but then again if your mating with the wall you aint racing. We grade our qualifiers so that all the fastest guys are placed together. With this set up we very seldom make contact with a wall and the racing is very clean.

The only time we get any bashing going on is if someone is lucky to place in a final that they shouldnt normally have reached. Besides that, I always keep records of all the dimensions and angles for everything so if I do get a knock that throws the settings I can have the car perfect again within minutes.
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Old 04-23-2003, 09:20 AM   #19
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Having the Chassis square, and the shocks the same length and using a Tweak Station would provide the same result in about 10 minutes instead of 2 months! or am I missing something.

Without Shocks the Suspension will not allow the Car to roll, so Basicly ALL of your suspension settings are for naught except for Toe. All of the NEW Trick set-up Tools eliminate any guess work.

Last edited by popsracer; 04-23-2003 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 04-23-2003, 09:28 AM   #20
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That is the whole point of doing this. The whole concept of using solid rods is to eliminate the problems systematically.

If the shocks are not even you cant set up the pivot balls or toe-in properly making your camber, and toe-in practically useless. So by using solid rods you can perfect the pivotballs so that the car runs straight.

Now you swap the rear rods to shocks and repeat the process and when the car runs/brakes straight again you can be assured the rear shocks are both equal.

Now put on the front shocks and repeat and when the car runs/brakes straight you can be assured they are both equal also.

The final 2 stages are adding the rollbars (rear first and then the front) and repeating the process.

When broke down this way you can be assured that all set ups are proper.
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Old 04-23-2003, 11:26 PM   #21
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Running in engines,
do we idle around or flog the guts off it?
Well the real racers, like in the V8's and F1, they actually have there cars in special rooms, which then turn the motor at what should be the motors highest RPM.

Also if you break a motor in hard and fast, thats the way it will run.
So if u ever buy a truck that has a new motor in it, make it work up hills with about half a load on, but do it in a high gear so it works the motor hard.


But there is a limit to how soon u can rev an engine so hard, normally u just cruise it around slow till the pinch isnt so bad.
Then u can normally get up and over half way.

My V-one S motor, GS15-r is rated 0.64HP, but it flys bcause of the way it was broken in. I putted around for about 2-3 tanks, then started doing burnouts and drag racing my uncles Holden Vt with the V8 in it.
But i left it running a little bit rich, i have never tuned to run for performance, always for life and performance. and it still flogs ass.


Break an engine in the way u want it to run.

If u want it hard and fast, break it in hard and fast.

If you want a panzy car, idle it infront of a fan.

And heres a test, go to a car yard, buy 2 exactly the same cars, brand new, break the engine in slow on one, and the other rev its guts and treat it like a race car.
Then c which one goes quicker.


If you don't believe this, go ask the real racers that drive real cars.
and then u can also ask our own top nitro runners.
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Old 04-26-2003, 11:05 AM   #22
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ok................i wanna use 30% on my sirio .12 outlaw.....do i have to shim it?
also is different brand fule (blue T to trinity monster)
hummmm can i do that without any shims?
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Old 04-26-2003, 11:09 AM   #23
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how do u brake an engine for a all month?
how many tanks is that gonna take?
non stop or what?
ok
let's do the [email protected]#$%^&*& is gonna be about 2880 tanks of fuel to break in an engine properly.
is that right?
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Old 04-26-2003, 11:41 AM   #24
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Default Changing Fuel brands

onroadmaniak;

Really the only worry is tuning. The Engines tuning WILL change with a different Brand and/or % of Nitro. So adjust accordingly.

I'm am not experienced with the Sirio so I couldn't tell you about the Head Shim.
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Old 04-26-2003, 12:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by onroadmaniak
how do u brake an engine for a all month?
how many tanks is that gonna take?
non stop or what?
ok
let's do the [email protected]#$%^&*& is gonna be about 2880 tanks of fuel to break in an engine properly.
is that right?
I definately wouldnt like to own any of your new engines

If it took 2880 tanks to break in an engine I would take up electrics again. With any new engine I have broke in I have been able to average around 15min run times with a 10 minutes between runs.

So if I manage to get a full hour of running each night that would work out at around 3 tanks per night making a total of 90 tanks. But most nights I only get about 1/2hr and at most 2 tanks worth of running (some nights I only get 1 tank through it). So even 60 tanks of fuel is stretching it for my break ins.

Why I take a whole month is because I dont like to screw the needles in to maximum settings in a short space of time.
As far as straightline speed from any of my engines - lets just say I am not worried about too many people passing me from one corner to the next and my engines last a long time too.
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Old 04-26-2003, 02:55 PM   #26
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mode......... do u burn any plugs in this period of break in?
any mess?????
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Old 04-26-2003, 03:20 PM   #27
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Never blew any plugs breaking in any of my engines over a 16yr period. And I have broke in quite a few engines (whether my own or someone elses).
Guess I must be kinda lucky. Have you?

As for mess. No mess ever other than the usual spilt fuel and car park dust that builds up around the car.

I'll answer your next question now to save you asking. I dont get any mess from the pipe either as I dont run shells when breaking in my engines. Helps keep them a lot cooler
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Old 04-26-2003, 04:10 PM   #28
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i've been very lucky with my engines the only way that i will replace one is cause anotherone better came out.......it is wird that u don't burn any plugs, rich engines need hotter plugs right??
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Old 04-26-2003, 04:15 PM   #29
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does anybody know anything about "TORQUE STEER"?
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Old 04-26-2003, 04:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by onroadmaniak
i've been very lucky with my engines the only way that i will replace one is cause anotherone better came out.......it is wird that u don't burn any plugs, rich engines need hotter plugs right??
I understand where you are coming from with the hotter plugs. But here our weather is cold at the best of times all year round and so we are used to running with hotter plugs. I never run anything but OS No3 glow plugs in standard engines and Novarossi plugs in Turbo engines.

The only time I have blown plugs is when I have the engine screaming in a qualifier. For the finals we normally back the main needle out 1/8th turn and trade ultimate performance for reliability.
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