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Old 04-21-2003, 11:20 AM   #1
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Will the AE start box start the stock NTC3 rtr engine? Or do I need to change the fly wheel or lose the pull start thing?
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Old 04-21-2003, 01:57 PM   #2
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No it will not. The RTR motor is a pullstart and has a much larger flywheel. You would have to change the flywheel to the non pullstart flywheel and remove the pullstart. Really quite a pain. I would just leave it as a pullstart or get a non pullstart motor. That would be the easiest.

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Old 04-21-2003, 05:22 PM   #3
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Yu will also have to change to motor mountsto the lowered ones in order to use the bump box properly.
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Old 04-21-2003, 05:50 PM   #4
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the flywheel diameters are different because of the hgt of the motor mounts...short mounts,small flywheel...tall mounts(to allow clearance of the pull starter) large flywheel.....either one can be started with teh box.they both stick out oof the chassis teh same amount...the only thing you want to be carefull of that you don't want to spin the motor the wrong way..you'll break the pullstarter..(cause of the one way bearing)
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:01 PM   #5
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Quote 1

Quote:
No it will not. The RTR motor is a pullstart and has a much larger flywheel. You would have to change the flywheel to the non pullstart flywheel and remove the pullstart. Really quite a pain. I would just leave it as a pullstart or get a non pullstart motor. That would be the easiest.
Quote 2

Quote:
Yu will also have to change to motor mountsto the lowered ones in order to use the bump box properly.
Nitrosaurus

Don't worry about the nay-sayers. I HAVE a Nitro TC3 RTR with the Associated .12 Pull-start SG Crankshaft engine & I use an Associated Starter Box to start it on race day. The pull-start is still attached & it still has the pull-start flywheel & pull-start engine mounts. I will eventually convert it over to a non-pull-start engine as soon as my backordered Associated conversion backplate kit comes in (eliminates a possible souce for an air leak). I MAY go ahead & buy the non-pull-start mounts & flywheel at that time but it is NOT necessary to convert it to the non-pull-start mounts & flywheel to use a starter box. Those parts will just allow the engine to sit lower in the chassis (lowering the engine does give a slight advantage due to a lower CG) The AE starter box works just fine with the RTR pull-start engine.

BTW, converting the motor is not a pain. Just get the non-pull-start backplate kit, cut the pull-start pin on the crank & slap the new plate on (this will require disassembling the engine & removing the crank. It will also require a Dremel tool to do it right). When I pull the engine down to cut the pin on the crank, I also plan on doing a little "Sleeve & Crank work" along with installing a AE/O'Donnell's Team head & an O.S. slide carb as a little experiment (hey the motor was basically free with the car so it gives me a chance for a little "Port & Polish" practice). Can ya say "Sleeper?" Sure ya can.
Hehehehehe

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer )
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Old 04-21-2003, 06:04 PM   #6
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all right GPX!!!!..a man that does a little research......
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Old 04-21-2003, 08:58 PM   #7
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I used to start my rtr with my starter box and i never changed anything... then i removed the pullstart and oneway bearing just to reduce weight and it ran like that... then i used my lower mounts and smaller flywheel and all it did was make it start a bit easier because of the differents in wheel ratios... bigger flywheel fewer engine rotations for each starter rotations so the smaller the wheel the higher the box will rev it...
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Old 04-22-2003, 06:44 AM   #8
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I am not 'naysaying', I was just referring to CRASH's post about changing to the smaller flywheel.

My response was that if he changed to the smaller non-pull start flywheel, he should also change to the lower motor mounts at the same time.

I never did say the pull start setup would not work ...

I should have used 'gooder' wording.
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Old 04-22-2003, 07:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by GP40X

(hey the motor was basically free with the car so it gives me a chance for a little "Port & Polish" practice).
I hate to tell you this but "polishing" only hurts performance of an engine. As they found out back in the 60's when it became popular and people didn't realize the drawbacks, it significantly reduces the turbulance within the motor. When you smooth something out like that, you take away the turbulance essentially reducing the air/fuel mixture causing the motor to run worse than if you had left it alone.
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Old 04-22-2003, 05:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by RedScorp

I hate to tell you this but "polishing" only hurts performance of an engine. As they found out back in the 60's when it became popular and people didn't realize the drawbacks, it significantly reduces the turbulance within the motor. When you smooth something out like that, you take away the turbulance essentially reducing the air/fuel mixture causing the motor to run worse than if you had left it alone.
RedScorp,

"Port & Polish" is a generic term that I picked up back in the days when I was still building Hot Rods & 1:1 racing engines (yes, that does date me). I have port matched the intake ports and pocket ported many a Chevy small block head valve pocket in my day & you are right. You dont want the intake runners too smooth because the lack of turbulance in the intake ports would actually allow the atomized fuel to form larger droplets & "drop-out" of the airflow stream. I did find that polishing the exhaust some helped get the spent air-fuel mixture out better but you also have to take the header design into consideration.

When I cut the sleeve & the case for the intakes, it will be more of a port match & trying to direct the flow into the cylinder, Any "Polish" work will be mainly deburing & softening edges. The only serious polishing will be to the exhaust manifold to help get the hot gasses out (That's also the cheapest part to replace if I screw up. ) Now back to the starter box discussion.

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer)
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Old 04-22-2003, 05:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by GP40X
RedScorp,

"Port & Polish" is a generic term that I picked up back in the days when I was still building Hot Rods & 1:1 racing engines (yes, that does date me). I have port matched the intake ports and pocket ported many a Chevy small block head valve pocket in my day & you are right. You dont want the intake runners too smooth because the lack of turbulance in the intake ports would actually allow the atomized fuel to form larger droplets & "drop-out" of the airflow stream. I did find that polishing the exhaust some helped get the spent air-fuel mixture out better but you also have to take the header design into consideration.

When I cut the sleeve & the case for the intakes, it will be more of a port match & trying to direct the flow into the cylinder, Any "Polish" work will be mainly deburing & softening edges. The only serious polishing will be to the exhaust manifold to help get the hot gasses out (That's also the cheapest part to replace if I screw up. ) Now back to the starter box discussion.

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer)


still wish you had your Tri- Power GTO,don't ya.....
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Old 04-22-2003, 07:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry

still wish you had your Tri- Power GTO,don't ya.....
No, I actually want my "Harem" back:

70 Pontiac GTO "Judge" Ram-Air 4 & a 4 speed (blown up late one night in a little demonstration of speed, OUCH that hurt) Fell in love, got married & never fixed it (sold to someone that it made their eyes light up when they first saw it so it went to a good home).

70 Buick GranSport 455 Stage 1 (with all the Kenny-Bell goodies I added including the switch-pitch stater torque converter for the Turbo 400). I sent her to car heaven in 1984 after she made a HARD left turn at the 180 foot mark when the left rear axle snapped & that one let me spend some time in the hospital & the guy in the left lane wet his pants when I took the front end off his car too (I was in the lead by a fender & about half a door when the axle let go & wound up puting us both in the guardrail. She rolled 5 & 3/4 times. We tore up about 140 feet of very stout guardrail). Wife kind of put her foot down after that one (I still have back problems from this one & the hospital bill was a little steep at the time)

78 Chevrolet Z-28 with lots of Gustard & Herb Adams suspension parts. (had to sell it for marital bliss & I quote my better half here "It starts too fast, it stops too fast, the exhaust is too loud, it rides so rough every time I hit a bump, I have to go pee"

Oh to be 21 & single with LOTS of free money again. Insurance was cheap & I could keep three cars & a pickup (to haul my tools when I changed jobs turning wrenches) happy.

My last real project car was a 85 Monte Carlo SS (sold after I became a GrandFather )

Now my need for speed is satisfied by a Nitro TC3. Not a poor second but just different. I also don't have to spend time in the hospital when I roll it DOH

Bill (NItro TC3 RTR Racer)
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Old 04-22-2003, 07:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by GP40X
No, I actually want my "Harem" back:

70 Pontiac GTO "Judge" Ram-Air 4 & a 4 speed (blown up late one night in a little demonstration of speed, OUCH that hurt) Fell in love, got married & never fixed it (sold to someone that it made their eyes light up when they first saw it so it went to a good home).

70 Buick GranSport 455 Stage 1 (with all the Kenny-Bell goodies I added including the switch-pitch stater torque converter for the Turbo 400). I sent her to car heaven in 1984 after she made a HARD left turn at the 180 foot mark when the left rear axle snapped & that one let me spend some time in the hospital & the guy in the left lane wet his pants when I took the front end off his car too (I was in the lead by a fender & about half a door when the axle let go & wound up puting us both in the guardrail. She rolled 5 & 3/4 times. We tore up about 140 feet of very stout guardrail). Wife kind of put her foot down after that one (I still have back problems from this one & the hospital bill was a little steep at the time)

78 Chevrolet Z-28 with lots of Gustard & Herb Adams suspension parts. (had to sell it for marital bliss & I quote my better half here "It starts too fast, it stops too fast, the exhaust is too loud, it rides so rough every time I hit a bump, I have to go pee"

Oh to be 21 & single with LOTS of free money again. Insurance was cheap & I could keep three cars & a pickup (to haul my tools when I changed jobs turning wrenches) happy.

My last real project car was a 85 Monte Carlo SS (sold after I became a GrandFather )

Now my need for speed is satisfied by a Nitro TC3. Not a poor second but just different. I also don't have to spend time in the hospital when I roll it DOH

Bill (NItro TC3 RTR Racer)


you don't have to take it to a chassis fabricator every time you want to change running gear either...
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Old 04-28-2003, 11:28 PM   #14
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You can use it on the NTC3 RTR and it will work with out changing anything, but you will have a small narrow contact point with the Pull Start flywheel. And do keep and I on the wear of the flywheel.

Hey Harry, did you make that race yet.....Guess who this is...
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Old 04-29-2003, 05:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Donn
You can use it on the NTC3 RTR and it will work with out changing anything, but you will have a small narrow contact point with the Pull Start flywheel. And do keep and I on the wear of the flywheel.

Hey Harry, did you make that race yet.....Guess who this is...
big don..this weekend...welcome aboard....

make sure you hit the TC3 nitro forum also...
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