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Old 06-13-2007, 08:57 PM   #1
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Default Mugen Ninja mr12

I need help folks. I've broken in several motors without fault. I just picked up a new Ninja .12/pipe/header combo from Speedshop and started breaking in today. Let me start by saying this motor was VERY tight from the box....more than my last Rex or Novarossi. I used a heat gun, but had a very hard time getting it running. I finally got it to idle through a tank....but it constantly wanted to stop at TDC. After making it through the tank, I thought all was fine. Idle seemed okay, etc. However, the flywheel now feels spongy. Really spongy. Almost like the conrod has rubber bushings?! If you get the piston to stick, near TDC, you can move the flywheel about one hour or more in each direction, without the piston moving, and it feels like a spring while turning. Like rubber. Are the conrod bushings done??? Already?? I've just never had a motor feel like that. If this is the way it is supposed to feel, fill me in...maybe I've just never noticed
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Old 06-13-2007, 09:48 PM   #2
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Tighten flywheel nut
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:16 PM   #3
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Default It's not the nut

It's not the flywheel nut. I'm afraid to disassemble the motor, because I don't want to get stuck with it if the manufacturer will take it back...if it is in fact toasted.
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:53 PM   #4
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Default nevermind

Wow...sorry guys. Looks like it must have been my imagination...or just the way I was working with it. I took out the motor and everything is square....looks right. Sorry to waste your time. I've just never had a motor this tight from the manufacturer....maybe I was just anticepating something breaking...
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Old 06-14-2007, 01:00 AM   #5
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Have a look over on the Engines thread the is quite a bit of discussion on running them in.
Yep ours was still a little tight after 4 litres probably didn't get it warm enough during run in.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:48 AM   #6
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Default I will check it out

I will check that out. Thanks for the advice. I've never had such a problem with a motor getting stuck at TDC like this. I've always had Rex's and Rossi's. They were so easy to run-in. Sure they were tight....but nothing like this. Also, this thing was EXTREMELY rich from the factory. Spewing puddles of fuel/oil. Had to lean it out about 6 to 8 hours to get it to even run at all. Still spewing smoke and oil...but not as bad. On first light up, this was spilling so much oil....that not even smoke was coming out. Just pure goop.
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:14 PM   #7
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my 1st 2 tanks where difficult to get the motor to start but after playing with the settings it was fine.
my motor still has alot of pinch in it and it takes some time for the car to go in to 2nd gear and warm up.
the thing has so much compression that it feels spongy when you turn the fly wheel,
when the piston gos just above the x port you feel it right away.iv never had this with other motors before.
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Old 06-14-2007, 05:19 PM   #8
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I am having problems with mine too. But my problem is different----- ITS JUST TOO FAST ...... LOL.... No seriously It runs mint at like 310 but when richened up to run about 260 it is ok but not the performance of the 360 temps. I wish I could figure out the optimum temp to run this thing at but I guess I might go back to 360 as long as I see no physical damage after a race or after a qualifier or 2.

Glad I chose the engine to be honest it is a great power plant and well worth the cost of admission.......
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Old 06-14-2007, 07:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcrunchone View Post
I am having problems with mine too. But my problem is different----- ITS JUST TOO FAST ...... LOL.... No seriously It runs mint at like 310 but when richened up to run about 260 it is ok but not the performance of the 360 temps. I wish I could figure out the optimum temp to run this thing at but I guess I might go back to 360 as long as I see no physical damage after a race or after a qualifier or 2.

Glad I chose the engine to be honest it is a great power plant and well worth the cost of admission.......

Whoa 360? Just make sure its smoking and maybe try playing with the low-end or clutch settings , thats way to hot if you ask me. But I know nothing of this motor...
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Old 06-14-2007, 08:59 PM   #10
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Careful where you take the temp on the Ninja the heat sink is quite efficent and large so unless you are getting the temp on the button it will be off. Also the button is probably a bit more open than most other motors so you may be able to get more correct temp readings. Personally I don't use a guage
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:43 AM   #11
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dont aim for a temp
just run to feel good and have smoke.
and ya its to damm fast like we are complaining
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:20 PM   #12
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The strange thing is that I brought it back down to about 310 and it is not only blowing smoke but it is spitting out a bit of oil and the car is no where close to over heating and the car has performance like you would not believe. I am not one big on TEMPS as they are very false and misleading when using it to tune.

I have had engines run like 285-300 while other search for power in the ranges of 220-250 and always ask me how the same engine can out perform another by so much of a difference. I have used it as a reference but never to really try and tune the engine, it can and will lead you down the wrong path.

I am happy with the engines performance at 310 at the moment and as long as I am not losing power and can pull with the rest of the pack I am not going to worry much about it unless the engine performance suffers or wear when I pull it apart.
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Old 06-15-2007, 04:34 PM   #13
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kcrunch,

I had that happen before too, though not that high. The fix was on the low end. My low was way too rich and had to lean it out and adj the gap accordingly. Hope that helps, though not on this engine
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:23 PM   #14
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Performance is what I am tuning for. Not really tuning to temps anymore, just use it because I have it.
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