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Old 01-14-2002, 08:07 PM   #1216
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


You have your suspension too soft and you should have harder shore in the rear. try 42/42 F/R. gold springs all around. If you are using the new front sway bar, set it to softest positon and use gold in the rear.

As for camber link. use lower/inner and upper/hub. 55 or 60WT shock oil.

Hope this help
I saw your car flipping over yesterday and you can also try lowering your ride height. Remember those Foams are pretty fat if they aren't trued, so you might have too much ride height. Try lowering your car. As for me at DELTA I run 40 front 35's rear, but I have 50 Wt. oil all around, ball and cup rollbar up front with softest setting and gold rear rollbars. I think I have black springs up front and silver in the rear (I forgot), but I have about 4 mm ride height all around, and have no rolling problems and car corners very well.
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Old 01-14-2002, 08:19 PM   #1217
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After an awful day at the track where I broke my steering wheel on my radio, fried a servo, and didn't get to race the main (at least I posted my best # laps in the 5 min qual's for nitro rubber ever), finally put together an all Kyosho LSD (front and rear) V-ONE R, thanks to Jonathan supplying the gears for the LSD for the front of the car (I currently have an LSD in the rear of the car). Was so excited I had to take it out in front of my house for a test run, and the car corners even better than before! Basically if all wheel drive real size cars like the Subara Impreza WRX or Nissan Skyline GT-R can have front and rear LSD's, then 1/10th scale size touring cars which have all wheel drive should theoretically behave the same way. Can't wait to try it at the track and see who it handles out there!

Thanks Jonathan for the LSD gears for my front diff...by the way can you bring that other bottle of LSD oil when I see you again? Also do you have the 5x8.5 mm washers and the P5 O rings LSD kit came with? If you have them can you bring them so I can have both a front regular diff and a front LSD diff without having to break them down? I think each diff can be useful in certain applications.

Does anyone have any experience with having the LSD in both the front and the rear, or have seen anyone else do it?
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Old 01-14-2002, 09:49 PM   #1218
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Well hopefully by the next race on the 27th I will try most of the stuff you guys mentioned, I should know this stuff dealing with 1 to 1 cars I can't beleive my body took a shat in 1 day maybe I will ductape it to the chassis next time

Art thanks for bringing the radio so we could here the game
I was pitting behind you

Jonothan its always a pleasure getting spanked by you not to mention eric and dan as well maybe I can somehow find the almighty force to get me to drive a little faster and alot smoother untill then LOOK out
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Old 01-15-2002, 05:55 PM   #1219
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Default Flipping over...

.... sux a-lot!! Yes, I did some traction rolling , and it was exactly (ugh!) like the last time I drove the car at that track. Got some ideas, though, on how to solve. Art, you got another 2143? Ok, I was telling you that story about burned up 2143's. To convince yourself, do some failure analysis on the burned up one. After you take it apart, you will see that the entire circuit board is left to flop around wherever it wants. I want to think it's not the motor that made the smoke, but the FETs. Maybe there's some way to "harden" (like a "Milspec hardened" laptop) to prevent future failures. Like, move the board completely out of the servo case? Do you use the rubber mounts? That might be all it takes.

Oh yes, congratulations on beating your personal best. Are sure the track layout is/was the same? Not doubting, but it makes a difference if it was.

One last thing, go easy on that new radio wheel. It's not a left and right switch!!

Last edited by Tee; 01-15-2002 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 01-15-2002, 06:04 PM   #1220
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Default Re: Flipping over...

Quote:
Originally posted by Tee
.... sux a-lot!! Art, you got another 2143? Ok, I was telling you that story about burned up 2143's. To convince yourself, do some failure analysis on the burned up one. After you take it apart, you will see that the entire circuit board is left to flop around wherever it wants. I want to think it's not the motor that made the smoke, but the FETs. Maybe there's some way to "harden" (like a "Milspec hardened" laptop) to prevent future failures. Like, move the board completely out of the servo case? Do you use the rubber mounts? That might be all it takes.

Oh yes, congratulations on beating your personal best. Are sure the track layout is/was the same? Not doubting, but it makes a difference if it was.
Yes I got another 2143. I just like the servo, plus it has to match the 2143 I already use for throttle. But now that the transmitter is fixed, I shouldn't have that problem with the servo anymore.

The track setup was the same as last week. Last week my best for the 5 min Qualifier was 18 laps 5:12 i think. This past Sunday it was 19 Laps 5 something. By the way check out Jonathan's NTC3. I think I told you he was selling it (not sure why though). If you like, why don't you look into getting a V-ONE R? hehehehe
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Old 01-15-2002, 06:08 PM   #1221
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NO V-1-R's!!. I think Kyosho is a ripoff (in the USA). Ya, I reallize Eric Vasutin put the hurt on York (!) with a V-1-R, but someone said it was the driver.

Did you see how weak York's JP motor was compared to Dansby's? Man!!
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Old 01-15-2002, 06:15 PM   #1222
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Default Re: Re: Flipping over...

Quote:
Originally posted by adelmundo


By the way check out Jonathan's NTC3. I think I told you he was selling it (not sure why though).
I thought Jonathan was trying to tell everybody how good is the NTC3?? so he goes back to MTX2? or V1R now?
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Old 01-15-2002, 07:22 PM   #1223
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heyalignmentguy:
One thing you may check also is your droop setting at your present ride height. If your track has a ton of traction, and it sounds like it does, get rid of most of that arm drop and you're car will respond quicker in transitional steering and stay flatter in the corners which may help with the body/traction roll problem. If it's not adjusted, you'll be amazed at what a difference it makes when you dial that in. Keep in mind that everytime you change ride height you may need to adjust the droop accordingly.

TambokGT:
Good seeing you on Sunday, been missing you all since you've been sick... try to be there early on Sunday, and let's get the programs rolling. 1/8th was a blast with Rick, can't wait to see more guys out there with us.

got_speed:
I haven't got the transponder thing working yet either, it's a new system and I was kind of bummed when I found out that I had to power it too. I'll be tinkering with that also in the next few weeks. Pain in the butt!
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Old 01-15-2002, 07:53 PM   #1224
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Quoted from TSN.

He was talking about 1/8 racing but this would also apply to 1/10 scale basically except we use high shore.

By: Ralph Burch (US)
Created: 18-05-01 TALK-BACK (7)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How we go about choosing tires for a main event:

Qualifying
Most tracks we race at, we normally run 35 durometer tires front and rear for qualifying. The car seems to be most balanced with this combination. We never run more than a 5 point spread on the durometer reading. If you find that you’re having to run more than a 5-point difference, then there is something else wrong with the balance of the car.




The Mains
When we choose tires for the main event , we usually pick tires that are a couple of points harder on the durometer reading for the outside, so as the main event goes along, the tire wear stays relatively equal. Also, we might stagger the tires 0.5mm to compensate for tire wear during the main event. This helps make the car easier to drive and track straighter on the straightaway during a main event.

As far as choosing a tire size, we normally will measure tire wear during qualifying to see how much tire wear we get in a 5 or 10 minute qualifier (depending on where we’re racing) and make a calculation based on that information. In most cases, tire wear is usually not as bad during a main event because the track usually has more traction because of all the other main events run before the A-main. When calculating the size of the tires, we usually try and have the car come back with at least 2mm more than what we need so that the car doesn’t try to bottom out.

I hope this little bit of information will help you out for your next Main event. Good luck, and good racing!
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Old 01-15-2002, 08:19 PM   #1225
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Manticore:
Great advice. I'm a little new to foam tires so that's a very interesting quote... thanks!
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Old 01-15-2002, 10:53 PM   #1226
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Dang it now I need to go to the track wish they had night practiceing
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Old 01-15-2002, 11:11 PM   #1227
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Manticor I just recieved a PM from Sydewynder he says that the RR is nowear to be found and that Kyosho took some time off for the new years holiday do you know where he might be able to locate one or maybe wich shop makes up the parts for the conversion the help is appreciated
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Old 01-15-2002, 11:39 PM   #1228
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Damn Art.

just cuz i said " i'm gonna kick your ass " . doesn't mean I mean it. I'm kidding bro. You know I love you. meathead!!

Moon

Ain't got no love for the ROOKIES!! Nah! I'm not selling it. When I yelled out " I'm selling this p.o.s " It was taken out of context. I actually like the car very much. Just a couple of issues I am fighting. Torque steer...Yeah. and no my car is not tweeked. Maybe it should be... Another problem is the lack of drag in the drive train. While it does offer eye popping aceleration, it does little for front to rear weight transfer. Having some push in mid corner. It's will take some time, but I'll get it all worked out. And then I'll sell it

HAG.

I willing to put money on the ride height thing. BTW. His name is Dansby. gotta know who is giving it to ya man.

Tee.

Sup? V1rs are nice dude... I got an extra one I can sell you. You are right about York's JP though. And yeah Dansby's mugen was sicccckkk. 54 oz. @ 50k rpms. and a polished titantium floatie. Dude's a freak!!!! Seeya at rams..
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Old 01-15-2002, 11:53 PM   #1229
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jonathan
Damn Art.

just cuz i said " i'm gonna kick your ass " . doesn't mean I mean it. I'm kidding bro. You know I love you. meathead!!

Moon

Ain't got no love for the ROOKIES!! Nah! I'm not selling it. When I yelled out " I'm selling this p.o.s " It was taken out of context. I actually like the car very much. Just a couple of issues I am fighting. Torque steer...Yeah. and no my car is not tweeked. Maybe it should be... Another problem is the lack of drag in the drive train. While it does offer eye popping aceleration, it does little for front to rear weight transfer. Having some push in mid corner. It's will take some time, but I'll get it all worked out. And then I'll sell it

HAG.

I willing to put money on the ride height thing. BTW. His name is Dansby. gotta know who is giving it to ya man.

Tee.

Sup? V1rs are nice dude... I got an extra one I can sell you. You are right about York's JP though. And yeah Dansby's mugen was sicccckkk. 54 oz. @ 50k rpms. and a polished titantium floatie. Dude's a freak!!!! Seeya at rams..
when you talk about torque steer, it reminds me about my Tamiya TXT-1 !
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Old 01-15-2002, 11:56 PM   #1230
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Quote:
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
Manticor I just recieved a PM from Sydewynder he says that the RR is nowear to be found and that Kyosho took some time off for the new years holiday do you know where he might be able to locate one or maybe wich shop makes up the parts for the conversion the help is appreciated
Yes HAM, all sold out here for the RR! not sure if the conversion kit is still available here as I cant see any spare parts form RR here either. I think the RR spare parts were emptied for people are trying to convert their R into RR.

Mr. Fok called me up this morning and I asked him to place deposit for the RR when stock comes in again and then have the shop to ship them back.
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