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Old 11-08-2004, 10:09 PM   #12121
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Quote:
Originally posted by ralliartlanevov
i just got a v1r and i upgraded my clutch to centax clutch. i recently purchased a project zen sts d5 engine. i was wondering if this engine fits the v 1r. im a newbe in centax clutch so can anyone give me advice about this
if your engine is an SG shaft, that will surely fit
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Old 11-09-2004, 09:36 AM   #12122
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Quote:
Originally posted by adamkerrnz
i just need to set up my mixture at the track and im ready to roll...
how hot is too hot for an OS .12TR? it seems that my engine gets rather hot after about 7 minutes.
I'm running the same OS engine trmp should stay around 240-268 and that with a hard run... The great thing about this engine is once you set up your carb. u can forget about it....
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Old 11-09-2004, 01:32 PM   #12123
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I LOVE MY OS
lol, i can even keep up with the rossi's in my racing class with my os .12tr
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Old 11-15-2004, 04:43 PM   #12124
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Does anyone know where I can find a hollow 2-speed shaft. I need one for my V-One RRR. I already have a hollow middle shaft and the weight decrease is substantial so I would like to do the same with the 2-speed shaft.

Thanks
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Old 12-05-2004, 05:21 PM   #12125
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No passion to go through previous 404 pages,

My V1RR Evo weight with touring body + fuel = 1890 g. Away to heavy. Is anybody has a part /action list on how to reduce the weight to below 1800 ?
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Old 12-05-2004, 09:30 PM   #12126
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Drain the fuel . . .

Seriously though, we only had Ti main and front shafts, Shimo chassis and CF deck. The car,with tyres & shell (no fuel or transponder) weighed about 1780 or thereabouts if I recall.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:11 PM   #12127
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big bump....

I'm not updating this thread to talk about the new RRR, but the RR.

Anyway I just wanted to give a little update of how my car is coming along.

This past sunday I went to the track, waited till everybody got there and waited till the track was warmed up and I started running my car. The accelaration was poor, so we switched the gearing from 48/18, 44/22 to 48/16, 44/20 the accelaration got a lot better but it was still lagging and on the straight everybody was still smoking me, I felt like I was driving my old traxxas engine. The handling was crappy too, i adjusted the springs and it got a lot better. When I was finishing up my last tank the 1st gear pinion fell off, but I didn't know that it fell off because I was in second gear and when I was slowing down after the straight my engine started revving like crazy. So I tried to get the car to come to me but all it did was rev. I immediatly stopped pressing the throttle because I didn't want to do more damage. When I got to the car the thrust bearing assembly was barely hanging from the engine shaft, and the 1st gear pinion was nowhere to be seen. I tightened the allen screw by hand where the thrust bearing assembly is and I put my RR into my car and went to look for the pinion on the track. After about 10 min walking the track we found the pinion, it was close to where i picked up my car.

Today i started working on the car and I wanted to remove the pinions in order to switch it on a different clutchbell and I can't get them off because i don't have the pinion removal tool and I called a couple of hobby shops that usually carry them and all of them are out of stock. I took off the clutchbell and no wonder my accelaration was crappy and the car was driving ms.daizy on the straight, one of the bearings is seized. So now I have to buy a new bearing. I also took off the front to see why my steering was sloppy, it turns out some of the components were loose so I tightened everything up.

Now I'm going to wait till one of the hobby shops gets the pinion removal tool and at the same time I'll pick up some bearings. Usually my car is very fast on the straight and hangs with the big boys, I can't say the same thing about the corners because I haven't mastered that yet.
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Old 12-24-2004, 03:44 PM   #12128
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Ball bearings

Hey guys, quick query...

I pulled my car down, scoped out the condition of all ball bearings, and noticed how much grit was on the outside, and wondered how much was on the inside.

I soaked them in metho, sprayed with motor spray, and then re-oilled with light bearing oil.

After a chat with my mate, he reckons that i now need to keep up the maintenance of the bearings, which i can understand.

I've checked out some prices on RC Mushroom for new bearings, and an contemplating buying some replacement ones.

What do you guys think about the rubber sealled? Are they worth the extra, or should i just go with the stockies again? Should i have cleaned the stock ones in the first place, or just wiped them over?

Many thanks in advance...
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Old 12-24-2004, 07:21 PM   #12129
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I'd go with the boca bearing set. They make a set for Kyosho cars. Ceramic bearings are the best but they are too expensive. Get like the green kind or whatever they are called
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Old 12-24-2004, 11:39 PM   #12130
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HELLO ALL, MERRY CHRISTMAS.

I have a rr I would like to sell. It has been ran for one season
and has a lot of spares and hop ups. It comes with a Hard Core
Titanium chassis + stock chassis, all new plastic with only one race, cvd's+ spares and parts, 2 lw middle shafts + stock, 2 lw 2nd speed shafts + stock, lw hinge pins, 19t alm. brake pulley, 2 front one way, 2 front gear diffs, rear gear diff, 2 solid rear axles (1 K Factory, 1 Kyosho Hollow), Kawahara Neg. Diff, 2 Fuel tanks (1 K Factory lcg, 1 Kyosho), Alm. wheel hex, Alm. pulleys + all stock with opt. Fantom side pulleys, Alm. brake bar, 2 FW05 fly wheel + lcg engine mt., 2 stock fly wheels, 1st pinion 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. 2nd pinion 19, 20, 21, 22, and also a spare clutch bell. I also have a RB x-12 Rody 3pt, and centex clutch to go with it, + a mother load of spare parts.

Please pm with any questions.

Thanks Tenderfoot
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Old 12-25-2004, 07:22 AM   #12131
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Default CVDS

could i get a part #for front cvd on the v1r 1thks
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Old 12-25-2004, 01:38 PM   #12132
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Hello, i own a Kyosho V-one-RR evolution and im having rear end grip problems. i am using 40 shore foam tyres all round. my shocks are on the lower hole on the tower and the upper hole on the arm. also could you point me towards a shock oil weight and springs to use on the rear?

The track i run on is not extremely grippy but it is a fairly tight track for gas cars.

Thankyou for your help, merry christmas and a happy new year
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Old 12-25-2004, 07:09 PM   #12133
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I used to run 37 rear and 40 front all the time, and the rear end would slip most of the times, especially when I'm 3/4 throttle in a turn about to shift to second gear. Today i switched to 40 shore all around and I gave the car more toe in in the rear. I went from 1.5-2.0 to about 2.5 and i drive with 40 shore on stock setting and the back doesn't slide out, we even leaned the motor and the back was sliding a bit but not as much as before with 35-37 shore foams.
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Old 12-25-2004, 10:02 PM   #12134
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Default sway bars

try tweaking your sway bars if your rear bar is not adjustable you can stiffen the front and it will give the appearance that the back end is grippier
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Old 12-26-2004, 09:40 AM   #12135
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already did that, the car is set up right.
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