R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-05-2004, 02:37 PM   #12061
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jihernandez
I got a Sirio S12-TUP Engine..............................
This is the first time I will be breaking in an Engine.................
Can anyone assist me on the proper breaking-in and tuning of my Sirio S12-TUP?.............................
I've ran 3 tanks already while it just idle's (free wheeling).
I've ran 3 tanks already while freewheeling but I am applying 1/4-1/2 throttle. I was trying to put it on the ground this morning so that I can already make it move slowly around the track but once I put it down, engine concks out. Do I turn in more the idle? If I do, the wheels start moving faster so if I put it down, it will move on its own.

Please advice. Thanks.
This are some bulletins regarding Sirio .12 engines.....hope it helps

AFM

Bulletin #1
When tuning your Sirio carb DO NOT adjust the mid-range needle. This is set from the factory on a flow meter to help calibrate the other two needles and should not be touched unless you really have a grasp on carburetor tuning. The mid-range needle can be found underneath the high-speed needle on the end of the carb opposite the low-speed needle.

Bulletin #3
Sirio .12 (General Base Carburetor Settings)
High Speed - 5.5 turns
Low Speed - 3-1/2 (Generally this should be flush with the end of the slide)
Mid Range - Flush then one turn out.

Bulletin #6
We recommend the use of the following plugs
- Sirio .12: (standard plug) Novarossi C7S or C8S
- Sirio .12 (turbo plug) Sirio S001720127

Bulletin #7
Crank pin on a new stock .12 engine has 4.428mm.
The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. if you're not able to check it, I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrication and the right carburetion keeps your engine running well for long time.

Bulletin #8
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2

1.- One (1) 125cc tank in the bench at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) with very rich setting of HSN (High Speed Needle) avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK

While breaking-in engine try to keep temperature around 90C, not more not less.
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 02:45 PM   #12062
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

Quote:
While breaking-in engine try to keep temperature around 90C, not more not less.

190-200F 210 is good also

my NRS3 broke in at 200 most of the time and 190 some
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 11:39 PM   #12063
Tech Regular
 
jihernandez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Metro Manila, Philippines
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by afm
This are some bulletins regarding Sirio .12 engines.....hope it helps

AFM

Bulletin #1
When tuning your Sirio carb DO NOT adjust the mid-range needle. This is set from the factory on a flow meter to help calibrate the other two needles and should not be touched unless you really have a grasp on carburetor tuning. The mid-range needle can be found underneath the high-speed needle on the end of the carb opposite the low-speed needle.

Bulletin #3
Sirio .12 (General Base Carburetor Settings)
High Speed - 5.5 turns
Low Speed - 3-1/2 (Generally this should be flush with the end of the slide)
Mid Range - Flush then one turn out.

Bulletin #6
We recommend the use of the following plugs
- Sirio .12: (standard plug) Novarossi C7S or C8S
- Sirio .12 (turbo plug) Sirio S001720127

Bulletin #7
Crank pin on a new stock .12 engine has 4.428mm.
The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. if you're not able to check it, I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrication and the right carburetion keeps your engine running well for long time.

Bulletin #8
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2

1.- One (1) 125cc tank in the bench at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) with very rich setting of HSN (High Speed Needle) avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK

While breaking-in engine try to keep temperature around 90C, not more not less.
Thanks so much for the assistance guys. Really appreciate it.

However, I don't think my Sirio is the EVO2 type. I think this is the 1st. It has a black heatsinc head.

Moreover, I don't see any midrange needle.

It only has the HSN, the low-end at the opposite side and the idle needle. The place you mentioned where the mid-range will be found is just a silver thing with a hex screw head. I reckon this is only for closing and opening the carb.

Also, I still have yet to put the car down to run around the tracks coz when I put it down, the engine dies. While my car is still on top of the starter box and it freewheels, whenever I press the brakes in full, the engine dies.

I tried turning in the idle. Now when I am braking, it doesn't die but the idle goes down. Once I release the brakes, idle goes up again.

Also, the wheels are moving while it is on the bench. Do I touch the low end needle?
jihernandez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 06:11 AM   #12064
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Re: BrainTeased

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
where did you get that sweet avatar man? I can concentrate on the posts! send me one
haha! one of my gf sent it to me! i've been trying to find them as well doing searches etc.. and told her im looking for an avatar and 2 mins later she sent me that avatar. i prefer nitropimp's avatar anyday! the one doing the bump dance!
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:24 AM   #12065
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

Quote:
haha! one of my gf sent it to me! i've been trying to find them as well doing searches etc.. and told her im looking for an avatar and 2 mins later she sent me that avatar. i prefer nitropimp's avatar anyday! the one doing the bump dance!
haham yeah, his avatar is cool.. well tell one of you gf to make me one also .. PLEEEASE LOL
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:25 AM   #12066
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jihernandez
Thanks so much for the assistance guys. Really appreciate it.

However, I don't think my Sirio is the EVO2 type. I think this is the 1st. It has a black heatsinc head.

Moreover, I don't see any midrange needle.

It only has the HSN, the low-end at the opposite side and the idle needle. The place you mentioned where the mid-range will be found is just a silver thing with a hex screw head. I reckon this is only for closing and opening the carb.

Also, I still have yet to put the car down to run around the tracks coz when I put it down, the engine dies. While my car is still on top of the starter box and it freewheels, whenever I press the brakes in full, the engine dies.

I tried turning in the idle. Now when I am braking, it doesn't die but the idle goes down. Once I release the brakes, idle goes up again.

Also, the wheels are moving while it is on the bench. Do I touch the low end needle?

It's OK, those carb settings for the Evo 2 will work the same, and you don't have to worry about the mid range needle , which is fixed....but let me warn you...some of those old style carbs had air leaking problems...if you find later when racing that you do, just change the carb for a Nova based engine carb...don't waste your time trying to fix it.

About your car dying when hitting the brakes, or when put on the track, and wheels moving while on the bench, indicates me that your clutch is engaging to early, killing the engine. You need to check that it is well built and free spinning until the engine reaches a higher rpm.

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:51 AM   #12067
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 396
Default

It probably means that the servo in controling idle speed not the throttle stop on the carb. Make sure that the engine idles the same speed with the radio on or off, that way you know it is hitting the idle speed screw.
Ted Flack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:59 PM   #12068
Tech Regular
 
jihernandez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Metro Manila, Philippines
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by afm
It's OK, those carb settings for the Evo 2 will work the same, and you don't have to worry about the mid range needle , which is fixed....but let me warn you...some of those old style carbs had air leaking problems...if you find later when racing that you do, just change the carb for a Nova based engine carb...don't waste your time trying to fix it.

About your car dying when hitting the brakes, or when put on the track, and wheels moving while on the bench, indicates me that your clutch is engaging to early, killing the engine. You need to check that it is well built and free spinning until the engine reaches a higher rpm.

AFM
Oh my I hope that air leak will not happen to me.

Noted with thanks on the clutch. Looks like that would be the problem. Our local club tracks is very technical and twitchy. That's why when I used a OS CV engine only, I set up my clutch to engage early to compensate the weakness of the engine vis-a-vis RB and other high-power engines.

Will rebuild and oil it and will tighten to ensure that it does not engage early. Will let you know of the results. Again, thanks to all for the help.

BTW, you are talking about the clutch that controls 1st gear and 2nd gear right (spur gears)? not the one in the clutch bell (pinions)? Still have stock clutch and have ordered centax but for some reason, it has yet to arrive from Hongkong.
jihernandez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 10:08 PM   #12069
Tech Regular
 
jihernandez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Metro Manila, Philippines
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Ted Flack
It probably means that the servo in controling idle speed not the throttle stop on the carb. Make sure that the engine idles the same speed with the radio on or off, that way you know it is hitting the idle speed screw.
Yup the idle speed is the same when the radio is on/off.
Initially, I thought that when I hit the brakes (thus pushing back the carb), it closes the carb. I checked though. The carb opening is the same when idling and when braking.

Will try the suggestion of checking the clutch (might be engaging too early).

Thanks.
jihernandez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 10:38 PM   #12070
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jihernandez
Oh my I hope that air leak will not happen to me.

Noted with thanks on the clutch. Looks like that would be the problem. Our local club tracks is very technical and twitchy. That's why when I used a OS CV engine only, I set up my clutch to engage early to compensate the weakness of the engine vis-a-vis RB and other high-power engines.

Will rebuild and oil it and will tighten to ensure that it does not engage early. Will let you know of the results. Again, thanks to all for the help.

BTW, you are talking about the clutch that controls 1st gear and 2nd gear right (spur gears)? not the one in the clutch bell (pinions)? Still have stock clutch and have ordered centax but for some reason, it has yet to arrive from Hongkong.
I'm talking about the engine clutch, the one that fits the pinions.

The gearbox clutch for second speed engagement won't make the engine die not matter where it's set. First your engine clutch has to engage before any power is transmitted to gearbox, so definetely it's your engine clutch which is engaging to early.

Engine has to rev freely quiet a bit before the clutch engages.

AFM
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 10:44 PM   #12071
Tech Regular
 
jihernandez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Metro Manila, Philippines
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by afm
I'm talking about the engine clutch, the one that fits the pinions.

The gearbox clutch for second speed engagement won't make the engine die not matter where it's set. First your engine clutch has to engage before any power is transmitted to gearbox, so definetely it's your engine clutch which is engaging to early.

Engine has to rev freely quiet a bit before the clutch engages.

AFM
Oh thanks for the clarification. The only option I have then is to clean it. As earlier mentioned, my engine clutch is not yet centax. It is only the clutch shoe with springs around it. How do I adjust it then if this is the case (no adjustment)?
jihernandez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2004, 03:24 AM   #12072
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
haham yeah, his avatar is cool.. well tell one of you gf to make me one also .. PLEEEASE LOL
lol nooo silly! my friend didnt make it her self she got it from online as well. she collects sexy female pics... strange but true!
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2004, 04:23 AM   #12073
Tech Regular
 
pramac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 319
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default Clutch Adjsutment

jihernandez, to make your clutch engage later you have a couple of options.

1. Kyosho make a spring to go around the shoes that is stronger that the stock one.

2. You can drill holes in the clutch shoes to lighten them, this means that the engine will need to rev higher before the shoes can move outwards and engage the clutch bell.
pramac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2004, 06:26 AM   #12074
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

Quote:
lol nooo silly! my friend didnt make it her self she got it from online as well. she collects sexy female pics... strange but true!
ohhh oops ! well have her send me some

good luck with you car
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2004, 07:10 AM   #12075
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
ohhh oops ! well have her send me some

good luck with you car
haha ill see what shes got she mostly has pictures only. i never ask them but she shows me on msn through her msn avatar.
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kyosho VoneR Roller $120 Tag R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 08-06-2003 07:22 PM
kyosho VoneR w/ nova, pipe $200 Tag R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 07-25-2003 03:09 AM
Kyosho VoneR Macky R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 07-31-2002 09:04 AM
Brand new Kyosho VoneR kit $230 Tag R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 10-22-2001 02:12 PM
NIB Kyosho VoneR $250 Tag R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 10-21-2001 06:39 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:30 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net