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Old 09-29-2004, 11:08 AM   #12046
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Quote:
Originally posted by Luckyman4
Hi,

I'm new to this thread and have a question. I have a Trinity Reflex NT which I'm told is a V One R clone ... I'm looking for a rear BALL diff ... anybody know who makes one and/or where I can buy one?
The G4 has was based off some of the V-one's specs. You could try their thread and ask if the new G4 ball diff will fit the V-one/Reflex. I believe the diff pulleys have the same teeth.
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:35 AM   #12047
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Default Re: set-up for v1rr

Quote:
Originally posted by japong
newbie,

looking for a set-up and manual for v1rr... can't browse all the replies in the thread because it is already too long.. would like also to ask tips about v1rr on how to improve it...

Tnx in advance!!
Japong,

For parts lists, exploded views and manuals, go to:
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download...e_index-e.html

For data settings, go to:
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download...g/index-e.html

When in doubt, always try the manufactures sites.

To improve the V-one RR, use the Special Belts. I haven't replaced one yet. I used to use the cool looking aluminum pulleys, but they wore out to fast and cut up the belts. The stock plastic ones last forever and they spool up faster too. Quicker off the line. If you have the dough, get the RR Evo conversion kit to lower the center of gravity, it's lighter and converts you over from the 1.0 gears to .8 gears. If you're not running a lola body, get the 3-Racing rear shock mounts to lighten the rear. Also, Titanium pillow balls with delrin cap screws, and a AAA five cell Rx pack will take off lots of weight too.

The lastest and greatest hop-ups are composite parts and the new RRR front and rear hubs. Awesome turning on-power. Use the front wheel axles in the back to eliminate the 2mm spacers.

I would like to own a new 3R, but I may just wait for the next edition since I'm really happy with my Evo's handling.
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:41 AM   #12048
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
The G4 has was based off some of the V-one's specs. You could try their thread and ask if the new G4 ball diff will fit the V-one/Reflex. I believe the diff pulleys have the same teeth.
kidDynomite,

Thanks for the tip! That's a possibility if the out drives are the same overall width and the OD of the out drives are the same. I'm thinking I'm going to need to get all the measurements off of a stock rear gear diff and then compare those numbers to those of a G4 rear ball diff. Finding a G4 rear ball diff to measure will be the hardest thing for me ... thanks again. -John

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Old 10-01-2004, 12:36 AM   #12049
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Smile Re: Re: set-up for v1rr

Tnx a lot kidDynomite..

I'm just starting in this hobby thats why i'm asking tips for the experience guy here... I chose v1rr coz through my research and question with some of my friends.. they told me that v1rr is beginner friendly and its DURABLE..

by the way, my v1rr has some hop-ups like 4mm chassi, carbon fiber upper deck, kawahara things.. sori, don't know what is it.. I'll just post some pics so you can see it..

Tnx man, it helps me a lot..
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Old 10-02-2004, 11:20 PM   #12050
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I'm looking for a good set up too. I have the V-one RR not evolution. I went to the Kyosho site but get some Japanese conversion error and the pages show up blank as a PDF. I really need help, the back end is pretty squirly. I'm thinking of going softer springs, but it already seems kind of soft. A set up would help.
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:22 AM   #12051
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Quote:
Originally posted by edseb
I'm looking for a good set up too. I have the V-one RR not evolution. I went to the Kyosho site but get some Japanese conversion error and the pages show up blank as a PDF. I really need help, the back end is pretty squirly. I'm thinking of going softer springs, but it already seems kind of soft. A set up would help.
l just use the stock set up what is came on the setup sheet and then run that then just change Little things out a time thats what i did.
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:25 AM   #12052
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
can someone post pics of your cars? RRR
here it is...
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File Type: jpg img_5590small.jpg (86.8 KB, 143 views)
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Old 10-03-2004, 12:33 AM   #12053
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here's another
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Old 10-03-2004, 09:53 PM   #12054
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I don't even have the stock set up. I never got a manual so I'm not sure where to start. Help? Set up sheet anyone?
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Old 10-03-2004, 10:37 PM   #12055
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thanks,

very nice car and body ! congrats !
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Old 10-04-2004, 02:27 AM   #12056
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Quote:
Originally posted by doki_doki
i agree with you bro..os engines are the easiest to tune of them all. as you go italian made engines, they are a lot needles to tingker with. if you loose your count, then you are in trouble. my advise, try to learn to tune engines starting with os engines. good luck
Speaking of tuning OS vs Italian Engines, I am one of those who already shifted to Italian. I was using OS CV before but since the compression already got tired of compressing , I got a Sirio S12-TUP Engine.

This was the first time I will be breaking in an Engine. My OS before was 2nd-hand.

I was surprised to find that the high-end needle was opened 6 turns (factory setting). However, since I read somewhere that to break-in the engine, i should close the high-end and open it 3 turns. Good thing my friend doki_doki told me that it might be too lean for he was running his RB Engine before at 4.5.

Can anyone assist me on the proper breaking-in and tuning of my Sirio S12-TUP?

I've ran 3 tanks already while it just idle's (free wheeling).
I've ran 3 tanks already while freewheeling but I am applying 1/4-1/2 throttle. I was trying to put it on the ground this morning so that I can already make it move slowly around the track but once I put it down, engine concks out. Do I turn in more the idle? If I do, the wheels start moving faster so if I put it down, it will move on its own.

Please advice. Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2004, 07:11 AM   #12057
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Default Tunning

.. as you lean it out you need to also adjust (back out) the iddle screw.. as you lean the mix the car will tend to rev a little higher. Also make sure your clutch is not prematurely engaging this will cause the car to die when it touches the ground.. my 2 cents good luck
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Old 10-05-2004, 03:04 AM   #12058
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
.. as you lean it out you need to also adjust (back out) the iddle screw.. as you lean the mix the car will tend to rev a little higher. Also make sure your clutch is not prematurely engaging this will cause the car to die when it touches the ground.. my 2 cents good luck
Thats what happened to my car the clutch wasnt tight enough yet i still managed to do 4 laps every heat and 10 laps in the final but didnt get to finish any of the heats and final
What i also noticed is that after say 4 laps the car seems to loose ALOT of response in throttle like as if something was holding it back. Is this the clutches fault or the engine getting leaner due to a possible air leak (a problem im trying to rectify with no spare time until the weekend) sorry to go way off topic haha. but since your talking about clutches though i might pop the question in.
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Old 10-05-2004, 01:50 PM   #12059
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Quote:
What i also noticed is that after say 4 laps the car seems to loose ALOT of response in throttle like as if something was holding it back. Is this the clutches fault or the engine getting leaner
it could be either or... sometimes your clutch get so hot that is just doesnt grab.. check your engine temp after a few laps or when the simptoms appear.

make sure you have the right amount of end pay and that everything is fine. - keep in mind that a clutch that doesnt grab will also cause the engine to run hot... (right?) - I had this problem with my S710 =( untill I changed the clutch shoe and fixed the problem.


someone else take it up a notch ! - and if the car pi--ess you off , just get a Mugen haha
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Old 10-05-2004, 01:51 PM   #12060
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where did you get that sweet avatar man? I can concentrate on the posts! send me one
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