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Old 09-13-2004, 06:39 AM   #11986
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Default fuel tank RRR

Besure not to have tighten screws to tight. Tank should have side to side play once installed. if to tight vibration will cause tank to get hairline crack
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Old 09-13-2004, 11:06 AM   #11987
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Default Re: fuel tank RRR

Quote:
Originally posted by spdmkr
Besure not to have tighten screws to tight. Tank should have side to side play once installed. if to tight vibration will cause tank to get hairline crack
You could be right, but I don't think that's why they cracked. 2 of the 3 guys are expert drivers and all 3 had years of experience racing. I have also never had a problem with my FW05R fuel tank nor have I heard problems with the Evolva fuel tank. 3 for 3 is just too much of a coincidence don't you think?
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:55 PM   #11988
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Default 3R Assembling problem

I just started building my 3R today. I got up page 9 already and found 2 problems . First, the right front bulkhead's lower hinge pin hole does not align straight causing the lower arm stuck. Is there anything I can do to make it better? So far I put some grease in the hole but it still binds. Second, I m confuse about the front upper arm hinge bush (the A-B-B-A thing) The bush does not have any indication or lettering indicating which is what. I tried to match the bush but I see the hinge pin does not go horizontal when you see it from the side. I m stuck for now,so pls anybody help me on this as I would like to proceed with my assembling.

Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2004, 02:06 PM   #11989
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Default Re: 3R Assembling problem

Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
Second, I m confuse about the front upper arm hinge bush (the A-B-B-A thing)
Thanks! [/B]
There are just 2 different hinge bushes. A and B. If line them up together you see that you can flip them around resulting in 4 different options. (A) lower and (A) upper etc. Team Kyosho uses the B bush with the hole lower ie closer to the chassis. Just be sure to mount them all the same way. In regards to your hinge pin dilema I can't say without going home and checking the manual. I am sure someone here will give you a hand.
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:49 PM   #11990
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom G
Absolutely correct. The fronts should be 4mm smaller than the rears. This equalizes the front and rear ratios and in most cases, a significant improvement in steering, handling and control can be seen, especially by those that didn't have it set-up that this way.
back to this what if you have a low size tyer like 50mm all round do you still take 4 mm off the front
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:40 PM   #11991
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Wow, 50mm!

I'm not used to seeing tires that can get trued down that much, so I can't answer that question.

By the way, I made a correction, the RR GT kit suggests 4.5mm smaller tires in the front to equalize the front and rear wheel rotation.

Good luck
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:45 PM   #11992
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Dameetz:

I had the same problem on my rrr. I actually found that all of the arms where a little tight. the lower being very tight. I used a 3mm drill bit and carefully ran it through the hing pin holes on the arms all the way through so that the bit was going through both holes at the same time.... This lined them up and they are free now without extra play. be carefull and go slow. do a little bit and then reassemble and check, do again if you need to. There was also a little binding from the flashing on the arms and I filed that off. Something to check anyway.
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:45 PM   #11993
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Default tyres

hi all.
i see you are discussing tyres and split.
ive found the best angle of attack is to set your car up so as the front and rear tyres wear the same..either with or without split..ive found using the same compund tyre with the same springs fron and rear does help heaps in maintaining an even tyre wear.
i use the RRR, RR-evo and the fw.. they work out the same when i set up..the evo tends to chew rears faster than fronts though..but. in a long race , its hard..thats when practice and writing tyre wear down..i start a 1/2 hour final with the outer tyres usually 1 to 2 mm different as to the inside..
its a pig to start but finnishes well. i dont like the over drive..should be able to set the car up without using over-drive..i use the 27 tooth on the evo, 24 tooth on the RRR and 37gear front and rear on the fw.
have spoken to josh cyrul and the parts on his car,fw-05r,(* the front top arm holder and the stronger rear camber link will be available very soon as a one piece parts tree. basically its the same configurement as the kawaharra front..but cheaper and stronger, i hope).
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:02 PM   #11994
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Default Suspension Binding on the RRR

Faced the same problem too, asked the forum and did the same thing. Now its free as a bird.

You'll also notice some slop after installing the top A-arms. Thanks to Boner, you can solve this by adding a 0.5mm shim at the front of the arm so as not to disturb the caster settings.

Further Dameetz, do you have the settings sheet, this 4page supplement that comes together with the manual and sticker sheets In it, it states that the stock settings for the arms position is using "B" with the hole flipped to show its highest point. Note this is applicable to the Rear lower arm position too.
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Old 09-14-2004, 01:02 AM   #11995
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Heh guys. I just got a V-One rr and raced it last weekend for the first time. Overall not bad, but that floating back end like a 1/8th pan car. I heard a aftermarket company converts the car to standard shock tower with body mounts, but who makes it and where can I buy it? Sorry, I'm sure this has been asked before, but couldn't find anything in the last few pages.
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Old 09-14-2004, 01:34 AM   #11996
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Quote:
Originally posted by edseb
Heh guys. I just got a V-One rr and raced it last weekend for the first time. Overall not bad, but that floating back end like a 1/8th pan car. I heard a aftermarket company converts the car to standard shock tower with body mounts, but who makes it and where can I buy it? Sorry, I'm sure this has been asked before, but couldn't find anything in the last few pages.
try towerhobbies and look under the trinty reflex, the rear shock tower will work, you will need a few other things as well to convert it over. body post, shock tower to bulk head mount, turnbuckle ends. looking at mabe $30.00 to do it all. but what do you not like about the floating rear?
NT2107 for the tower and mount
NT2044 for the body posts

Last edited by drfritz; 09-14-2004 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 09-14-2004, 04:40 AM   #11997
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Default Tank

Maybe so, but I can only speak from my experiences. D Day had same problem when he put his RRR together and since has not had a problem. Check it out.
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Old 09-14-2004, 04:47 AM   #11998
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Default Re: tyres

Quote:
Originally posted by mikecatts
hi all.
i see you are discussing tyres and split.
ive found the best angle of attack is to set your car up so as the front and rear tyres wear the same..either with or without split..ive found using the same compund tyre with the same springs fron and rear does help heaps in maintaining an even tyre wear.
i use the RRR, RR-evo and the fw.. they work out the same when i set up..the evo tends to chew rears faster than fronts though..but. in a long race , its hard..thats when practice and writing tyre wear down..i start a 1/2 hour final with the outer tyres usually 1 to 2 mm different as to the inside..
its a pig to start but finnishes well. i dont like the over drive..should be able to set the car up without using over-drive..i use the 27 tooth on the evo, 24 tooth on the RRR and 37gear front and rear on the fw.
have spoken to josh cyrul and the parts on his car,fw-05r,(* the front top arm holder and the stronger rear camber link will be available very soon as a one piece parts tree. basically its the same configurement as the kawaharra front..but cheaper and stronger, i hope).
hey when you mentioned stronger rear camber link will they be including new rear uprights as well?
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Old 09-14-2004, 05:51 AM   #11999
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Default Re: tyres

Quote:
Originally posted by mikecatts
hi all.
i see you are discussing tyres and split.
ive found the best angle of attack is to set your car up so as the front and rear tyres wear the same..either with or without split..ive found using the same compund tyre with the same springs fron and rear does help heaps in maintaining an even tyre wear.
i use the RRR, RR-evo and the fw.. they work out the same when i set up..the evo tends to chew rears faster than fronts though..but. in a long race , its hard..thats when practice and writing tyre wear down..i start a 1/2 hour final with the outer tyres usually 1 to 2 mm different as to the inside..
its a pig to start but finnishes well. i dont like the over drive..should be able to set the car up without using over-drive..i use the 27 tooth on the evo, 24 tooth on the RRR and 37gear front and rear on the fw.
have spoken to josh cyrul and the parts on his car,fw-05r,(* the front top arm holder and the stronger rear camber link will be available very soon as a one piece parts tree. basically its the same configurement as the kawaharra front..but cheaper and stronger, i hope).
Mikey I still have not broken my Kawahara front conversion yet destroyed the body at one race meeting. The upper deck won't be cheap.
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Old 09-14-2004, 08:14 AM   #12000
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Default 3R front diff assembly

Thanks guys for giving me tips regarding suspension arm binding problem. I m building my 3R using front diff, do you guys put the front pulley to the case together with the pulley rim( the rim that supposed to be glued to the pulley if using front oneway)? I look at it if I put the rim to the pulley, the pulley it self will have a gap at the screw holes. So I build mine without the rim. Now I got another problem, when I put the diff set in the bulkhead, it seems that the diff is not wide enough, there is a lot of lateral play about 2mm. I can see the belt adjuster moves with the bearing. Anybody who has build the diff for the 3R, pls share me your experience.

Thanks!!
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