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Old 08-31-2004, 01:23 PM   #11911
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
Work. Hard work gets you tracktime and a nice ride for going to the track. Aren't you off to college soon?

I stopped the hobby for college and four years after that. Once you make your way to success, your next kit or engine is as easy as, "I feel like pizza tonight!".

Or you could try to find yourself a sugar mama.

Trust me, once you get to college, become a lady's man ... that will get your mind of racing for a while.

We'll still be here, we'll be a lot faster than you, but we'll still be here.
i'm already in my second year of college. I'm trying to find work, but no luck so far. I stopped the hobby all through high school because i got my HPI nitro mini when I was in 8th grade.

What makes you say you're faster. I got a brand new synthesized radio, brand new starter box, brand new engine that rarely hits 200F and is lean like hell. My RR has the optional gearing and some lightweight aluminum parts to keep the weight off. If you want when I'm in IL i can meet you and race you and we will see who is faster, J/k But still i come to IL every couple of years, maybe we will meet.

I'm still here, It's just that I will get little track time in the future.
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Old 08-31-2004, 10:59 PM   #11912
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Default Re: One way!!

Quote:
Originally posted by Mauler
I'm sure some of u out there had this problem before. I juz got the VoneR recently and boy, I was impressed with the whole layout in general. Juz one small problem, wen I brake along the straights, the car swerves very suddenly to one side! Could it be the one way I'm using?
For all the gurus out there, please offer a solution...Or shall I change back to the old trusty diff...
Does changing the exponential on my controller help?

Thanks to all!
Happy racing!
i had the same problem where the rear of the car would always inter change with the front when breaking, since i'm used to driving front diff and hard breaking is no problem. what is your rear diff oil? when i changed to one-way, i changed my rear diff oil to 50k. driving one-way will limit your hard breaking habits, i learned to drive with very little breaking. lessen your breaking power through your radio's servo travel limiter so whenever you need quick breaking, your rear will not fishtail to the front.

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Old 09-01-2004, 12:32 AM   #11913
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
If you want when I'm in IL i can meet you and race you and we will see who is faster, J/k But still i come to IL every couple of years, maybe we will meet.

I'm still here, It's just that I will get little track time in the future.
That's cool, bro! Make sure you come when it's warm out. Nitro season only lasts about 7 months here. Then it's back to electric, which I'm look forward too.

Did you ever think of working at your LHS part time? The guys that work at ours get a pretty good discount ... Then you can hook us all up.
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:53 AM   #11914
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
That's cool, bro! Make sure you come when it's warm out. Nitro season only lasts about 7 months here. Then it's back to electric, which I'm look forward too.

Did you ever think of working at your LHS part time? The guys that work at ours get a pretty good discount ... Then you can hook us all up.
I apllied to lots of places. even 2 hobby shops.
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Old 09-01-2004, 09:48 PM   #11915
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Default VoneR

My VoneR works much better with front diff but comming on straight away you cant nail it till your straight or it goes ape
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Old 09-01-2004, 10:07 PM   #11916
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Default Re: VoneR

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Originally posted by TeeCeeRacer
My VoneR works much better with front diff but comming on straight away you cant nail it till your straight or it goes ape
TCR, what are your settings?
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:07 PM   #11917
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Default Re: Re: VoneR

Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
TCR, what are your settings?
A one way car will always be faster through the corners than a front diff car. I never realy believed this at our track, till our last two day. ( www.amainraceway.com) I have always ran a front diff at this track, no if ands or butts to it. But we had a very fast mugan driver come and run with us, he's local but does alot of world and national races, any way Dave was running a one way and was kicking our a$$e$ through the corners. not so much entring or exit, but mid corner was the place that he was making up so much time. if you look at the track, it not what you would call a big flowing track, but dave sure made it work, I stuck one in the evo and did run faster lap times but needed to do some changes to the car to make it alittle easier to drive. I was running the race and racing and never had the time to fool with the car, so I ended up running the 30 min main with the front diff, took second, 8 lapps down To say if you look at my car now, theres a one way in it and I'm going to make it dang thing work. IF you want to know what the lapps times were, Dave was running low 17and high 16, most of the other fast guys along with my self low 18 and a few high 17. and no I was not give up a thing to him on the straights, but come those corners it was no race at all.

Last edited by drfritz; 09-02-2004 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 09-02-2004, 01:56 PM   #11918
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom G
That tab is supposed to help you eyeball the suspension to check for tweak.

Rather, it's angle should be parallel to the bottom suspension arm when tightened.

Sorry for the bad description.
Tom G,
Is this done on a set-up station / board? With the wheels off the ground? Could you elaborate further about how this works.I've had a few car with these tabs and no real understanding of function and or purpose.
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Old 09-02-2004, 02:52 PM   #11919
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Quote:
Is this done on a set-up station / board? With the wheels off the ground? Could you elaborate further about how this works.I've had a few car with these tabs and no real understanding of function and or purpose. [/B]
Once you instal the front end roll bars, re-ceheck your tweak. The once your suspension is tweak-free, the tabs should line up, parallel to the bottom suspension arm. What this does is literally provide you an eyeball gauge to show you when your tweak settings have changed [thus, your car has become tweaked].

The Hudy set-up book, incidentally, it is downloadable at teamxray.com, explains it really good detail.

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Old 09-03-2004, 12:19 AM   #11920
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
Tom G,
Is this done on a set-up station / board? With the wheels off the ground? Could you elaborate further about how this works.I've had a few car with these tabs and no real understanding of function and or purpose.
The tabbed bushes have an ecentric hole for the mounting bolt.
When mounted, the front roll bar arms directly connect the left lower arm to the right lower arm.
Unless everything is absolutely spot on, you are likely to have one arm higher than the other.
These ecentric bushes permit you (by turning just the bush) to establish dead equal droop on both sides of the front suspension.
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Old 09-03-2004, 12:50 AM   #11921
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
These ecentric bushes permit you (by turning just the bush) to establish dead equal droop on both sides of the front suspension.
what i don't understand is why kyosho put the tab on both sides. one side should had been suffice.
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:11 AM   #11922
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Default Re: VoneR

Quote:
Originally posted by TeeCeeRacer
My VoneR works much better with front diff but comming on straight away you cant nail it till your straight or it goes ape
Fit the MTX-3 rear hubs. It clears this problem up. You can nail it half way out of a corner.

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Old 09-03-2004, 01:13 AM   #11923
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Default Taylor-Racing on tabbed bushes

Thanks for clearing that up for the gang. I'm sure my explanations, or directions for that matter, came nowhere close!

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Old 09-03-2004, 08:11 AM   #11924
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Quote:
Originally posted by Data
what i don't understand is why kyosho put the tab on both sides. one side should had been suffice.
Yes, that's exactly right - Kyosho have them on both sides and we only need one.
The MTX-3 uses only one but some aftermarket alloy arms have two.

I'll add further to the stupidity of it all:
After you've fiddled with either one or both bush's (depending on what you have) to get the droop dead even, any change to either front droop screw necessarily now affects both lower arms - and not all that evenly, either.

What we really need for this situation is one central droop screw for the front suspension.
Maybe that'll be on the V-one RRRRRR.
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Old 09-03-2004, 08:24 AM   #11925
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Smile Chassis setup with foam tires

Hello, I just joined RC Tech!

I was a regular at RC Car Action forum/V-one, but the traffic there is dead and no one writes any more...

My challenge is how should I setup my chassis for foam tires?
With rubber tires, I usually setup once and forget since the rubber tire's diameter reduction is minimal. If I setup for new foam tires, rear chassis bottom will drag as rear tires wear down. Of couse I can re-setup the rear end to compensate for tire wear but what I found out is just using shock collars and droop screws don't do a good job after a certain point.
After some amount of rear tire's diameter reduction, I could use a new set but....I'm stingy (gotta save a few bucks ).


Or, is there good rubber tires for V-1-RR? I tried some of my electric sedan's tires but they didn't hold up very well.... They got shredded within several minutes.

Thanks!
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