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Old 08-30-2004, 05:47 AM   #11896
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The front axles rotate faster than the rear, you then make the front smaller so both front and rear tyes roll the same distance per engine revolution, if the front tyres travel a greater distance than the rear, then the car is overdriven.
I'm sure there is a rollout formula posted somewhere.
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Old 08-30-2004, 05:56 AM   #11897
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjl
The front axles rotate faster than the rear, you then make the front smaller so both front and rear tyes roll the same distance per engine revolution, if the front tyres travel a greater distance than the rear, then the car is overdriven.
I'm sure there is a rollout formula posted somewhere.
Thanks rob *has a better understanding of why some cars use overdrive in their driveline setup now.*
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Old 08-30-2004, 07:37 AM   #11898
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Default RRR

Hello boner

You have a PM.
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Old 08-30-2004, 09:21 AM   #11899
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I have 25t pulley on right now, is equalized or is it overdriven?

I also have a 27t pulley but it's not on the car.
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Old 08-30-2004, 02:32 PM   #11900
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
I have 25t pulley on right now, is equalized or is it overdriven?

I also have a 27t pulley but it's not on the car.
I got the formula somewhere around here...gimme soem time and I'l shoot it over to ya or just post it.

Say 8/9pm Central time.

^5
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Old 08-30-2004, 02:35 PM   #11901
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom G
I got the formula somewhere around here...gimme soem time and I'l shoot it over to ya or just post it.

Say 8/9pm Central time.

^5
take your time, i'm out the hobby for a while.
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Old 08-30-2004, 02:44 PM   #11902
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Thumbs up Rollout Calculations; drive, overdrive, gear, etc., etc., ...

Here's the link to an article [figured it was faster and anyone can save/rint the article out, about 4 pages with a cheat-style chart with everything you need].

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/fastmath.asp
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Old 08-30-2004, 02:46 PM   #11903
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Tom, Got the "stuff" today. Thanks a bunch. I left you + feedback as well. And my RR project in now complete ... well almost. I still need brake pads, a few more outside wheel bearings, and pins for the hexes. But otherwise, she's looking pretty good.

Hey C888, why you out, bud?
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Old 08-30-2004, 04:27 PM   #11904
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
Tom, Got the "stuff" today. Thanks a bunch. I left you + feedback as well. And my RR project in now complete ... well almost. I still need brake pads, a few more outside wheel bearings, and pins for the hexes. But otherwise, she's looking pretty good.

Hey C888, why you out, bud?
money. Money let's you get track time and money gets you to the track(transportation).
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Old 08-30-2004, 05:13 PM   #11905
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
Tom, Got the "stuff" today. Thanks a bunch. I left you + feedback as well. And my RR project in now complete ... well almost. I still need brake pads, a few more outside wheel bearings, and pins for the hexes. But otherwise, she's looking pretty good.

Hey C888, why you out, bud?
Good deal, glad you got it!

^5
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Old 08-30-2004, 06:09 PM   #11906
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Hi guys,

with regards to the slop on the top a-arms of the RRR, and to borrow the Boner's idea of shimming to get rid of the slop, i know i had said that i wanted to shim the front and back by 0.2mm.

But when i looked at the RRR data sheet, realised that we should only shim the front to get the stock settings.

Upon measuring the slop again, i had about 0.5 mm worth of slop.
So am happy to report for the RRR users who want very negligible slop, use a 0.5mm washer at the front of the arm, to attain "proper" stock castor settings.

Last edited by thescum; 09-13-2004 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 08-30-2004, 06:53 PM   #11907
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
money. Money let's you get track time and money gets you to the track(transportation).
Work. Hard work gets you tracktime and a nice ride for going to the track. Aren't you off to college soon?

I stopped the hobby for college and four years after that. Once you make your way to success, your next kit or engine is as easy as, "I feel like pizza tonight!".

Or you could try to find yourself a sugar mama.

Trust me, once you get to college, become a lady's man ... that will get your mind of racing for a while.

We'll still be here, we'll be a lot faster than you, but we'll still be here.
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Old 08-30-2004, 08:36 PM   #11908
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Quote:
Originally posted by B4
In the standard RR/EVO setup it is actually a 4mm split. If you run the 26 tooth front pulley it is a 2mm split. The V-One-R used no split as it had a 27 tooth pulley.

If you get the 26 tooth pulley from Kyosho it has a chart to tell you the splits for each pulley size and the characteristics of each size.
While on the topic of ratios and drive trains, I looked at my "bible" looking for the split. It is 4.5mm smaller tires in front to make a 1:1 ratio on the RR kit.

That .5mm may attempt to make up the rear-tire wear factor difference or it may truly be a 1:1 ratio equalization. Sorry for the bum scoop confirmation [I won't feel .5mm difference when I plow around that corner ].

^5
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Old 08-31-2004, 05:26 AM   #11909
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Default Re: Rollout Calculations; drive, overdrive, gear, etc., etc., ...

Quote:
Originally posted by Tom G
Here's the link to an article [figured it was faster and anyone can save/rint the article out, about 4 pages with a cheat-style chart with everything you need].

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/fastmath.asp
^5 's Tom !
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Old 08-31-2004, 05:52 AM   #11910
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http://www.ziggy12345.plus.com/Cars/V-1-RR%20MPH.xls

Drive calculator
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