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Old 07-29-2004, 01:08 PM   #11416
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Default Front Spool

kd, thanks for the gearing info. As for engine tuning, I'll work on it and get back to you. I think I know what the deal is now.

For making the one-way into a spool:

Before doing this, make sure to use some nitro spray to get all oil or grease off the outdrives and the inside of the tube. This is going to be permanant so do it if you're sure you're ready too.

1) pull the outdrives out. Cut two flat spots on opposite sides of each out drive. cut them so that there the entire length of the inner shaft. I used a dremmel with a carbon cutting disk going up and down the shaft. This only took about 10-15 per outdrive.

2) With a drill press, drive two 1.5mm or 2mm hole through the one-way housing. Try to make sure you get it between the one-way bearings because I drilled into one of them and it was a beee-ach to finish. About 1hr and 3 bits to get through it. Do this to each side, one opposite the other to keep its rotation balanced.

3) Tap the holes to fit small set screws. Something that will sit flush to the tube. You could use a regular screw and grind off the heads later.

4) Now make a batch of JB Weld...the 24hr stuff, and put some into the tube with a thin hanger type wire or old allen wrench. Stuff a little in there and smear it around the inside walls. Put the outdrives back in slowly and then start rotating them to get them into the bearings. make sure you keep the set screw in place but not locked down so the JB doesnt ooze out the holes. Do this a few times to make sure there is enought JB on the bearings.

Now put a little bit more JB so that there's enough to fill in where the flatspots are on the drive.

5) Insert the outdrive slowly, paying attention to where your flatspots are. Keep them inline with the setscrews. There should be some over flow of JB that you can clean off with a clean rag. I actually sculped it to cover some of the outter part of the outdrive.

6) Turn your set screw all the way in until it bottoms out. This is for insurance that the outdrive won't spin with all the pressure that will be loaded on it.

Let the JB Weld sit for 24hrs to cure. With two flat spots on the each outdrive, it should make for a good lockdown when solidified.

I've been racing it for a month now and it has not budged loose yet. I was worried about wear and tear on the drive-train but my Kyosho Special Belts have held up great. The white lettering is still on them.

An alternative to the set screws is to drill all the way throught the tube and outdrive and use a spring steel pin to hold them in place. But I had a flimmsey Dremmel drill press and some week bits. The outdrives are hardened steel along with the inner bearings. So if you can do it this way. You'll have an even stronger spool.

Braking is now an advantage for me since I can do it last second to place my car on the inner line of a turn. If you run into trouble deep into a turn, you can tap the break without losing the rear end. Keep the rear diff loose to help with the turning in speed.

Sorry for keeping this long. I didn't want to miss any details just in case you want to try this.
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:32 PM   #11417
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i am very confused, can you possibly include pics after every sentense, because i got an extra front one way I can tweak on.
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:35 PM   #11418
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c888, sorry my man! I wish I shot pix while assembling it. I'll try to post up illustrations for you later.
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:56 PM   #11419
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Default Re: Front Spool

Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
kd, thanks for the gearing info. As for engine tuning, I'll work on it and get back to you. I think I know what the deal is now.

For making the one-way into a spool:

Before doing this, make sure to use some nitro spray to get all oil or grease off the outdrives and the inside of the tube. This is going to be permanant so do it if you're sure you're ready too.

1) pull the outdrives out. Cut two flat spots on opposite sides of each out drive. cut them so that there the entire length of the inner shaft. I used a dremmel with a carbon cutting disk going up and down the shaft. This only took about 10-15 per outdrive.

2) With a drill press, drive two 1.5mm or 2mm hole through the one-way housing. Try to make sure you get it between the one-way bearings because I drilled into one of them and it was a beee-ach to finish. About 1hr and 3 bits to get through it. Do this to each side, one opposite the other to keep its rotation balanced.

3) Tap the holes to fit small set screws. Something that will sit flush to the tube. You could use a regular screw and grind off the heads later.

4) Now make a batch of JB Weld...the 24hr stuff, and put some into the tube with a thin hanger type wire or old allen wrench. Stuff a little in there and smear it around the inside walls. Put the outdrives back in slowly and then start rotating them to get them into the bearings. make sure you keep the set screw in place but not locked down so the JB doesnt ooze out the holes. Do this a few times to make sure there is enought JB on the bearings.

Now put a little bit more JB so that there's enough to fill in where the flatspots are on the drive.

5) Insert the outdrive slowly, paying attention to where your flatspots are. Keep them inline with the setscrews. There should be some over flow of JB that you can clean off with a clean rag. I actually sculped it to cover some of the outter part of the outdrive.

6) Turn your set screw all the way in until it bottoms out. This is for insurance that the outdrive won't spin with all the pressure that will be loaded on it.

Let the JB Weld sit for 24hrs to cure. With two flat spots on the each outdrive, it should make for a good lockdown when solidified.

I've been racing it for a month now and it has not budged loose yet. I was worried about wear and tear on the drive-train but my Kyosho Special Belts have held up great. The white lettering is still on them.

An alternative to the set screws is to drill all the way throught the tube and outdrive and use a spring steel pin to hold them in place. But I had a flimmsey Dremmel drill press and some week bits. The outdrives are hardened steel along with the inner bearings. So if you can do it this way. You'll have an even stronger spool.

Braking is now an advantage for me since I can do it last second to place my car on the inner line of a turn. If you run into trouble deep into a turn, you can tap the break without losing the rear end. Keep the rear diff loose to help with the turning in speed.

Sorry for keeping this long. I didn't want to miss any details just in case you want to try this.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:57 PM   #11420
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thanks
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Old 07-29-2004, 03:28 PM   #11421
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Default Turn Your One-Way into a Locked Spool

Hey c888 and KewD! Here's an illustration I did to help you make sense of my how it all goes together. Let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 07-29-2004, 03:36 PM   #11422
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Default Turn Your One-Way into a Locked Spool

Try this one. The last one was too hard to read.
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:14 PM   #11423
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Default NTC3 Tank Mod on Evo

c888, I cut the upper tank slot bigger for the new TC3 RTR tank (longer & lower than Factory Team tank) and I custom mounted it to allow a flat AAA pack which is supported by and upside down Serpent 950 battery holder. It's mounted to the three screw holes on the bottom of the tank and pushed forward for foward traction. The back hole of the tank also holds the AMB securely.
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:17 PM   #11424
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Default NTC3 Tank Mod on Evo

hopefully this gives a better view of how the bottom of the tank is arranged. I'll take everything off and shoot pix so you can see how it all gets mounted to the top plate.
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:20 PM   #11425
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Default Switch mod

I got nailed in the side while I was taking a right hander on the inside turn and my switch got nicked pretty bad... so I dremelled out the steering servo holder to allow my switch to nest and the wires all get neatly routed through the back. Even the servo wire comes around throught the support through a new hole to keep it from tangling with the servo arm.
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:23 PM   #11426
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Default NTC3 Tank Mod on Evo

heres a better shot of the bottom layout.
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Old 07-29-2004, 07:17 PM   #11427
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nice set up you got there. I got a custom receiver box where it's covered on every side.

I won't do any more mods in the future because it looks like my RB v12 is damaged, looks like a faulty outer bearing or cracked case. Hopefully it's the bearing because I'm on a budget and I went over it a couple of times already. It's not even fully broken in, it got like 20-25 tanks through it.
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Old 07-29-2004, 08:02 PM   #11428
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c888, what's your engine doing? Hope it's not too serious.

Do you have a pic of your RX cover? I know it's probably classified. E-me it if you want.
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:46 PM   #11429
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see what i did was when my hitec reciever didn't fit in the RR receiver box I cut the insides out and I placed my receiver in there. Then I covered it with the HPI receiver cover, only i slid it on from the bottom. Plus i alighned it so I can switch channels anytime.

The receiver cover from HPI is rubber and comes in black and etc. I don't have a digital camera but i always find a way to post pics
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:12 PM   #11430
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oh, it's cool bro! I actually have that same one under my mugen receiver guard. I even bought an extra HPI cover today at my LHS ... planning on getting an FW-05R and I like the fit of the cover around the Novak synthesized.
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