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Old 07-29-2004, 10:01 AM   #11401
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hey c888! No, adding more weight to the car just makes it slower. I converted my RR to an Evo last year and the AAA pack that I put on is actually lighter than the regular batteries. Plus I have them flat on the bottom of the chassis ... pushed forward to the front pulley.

I bought the car on eBay with all the bling-bling stuff on it. Kawahara Neg-Diff, aluminum pullies and other parts ... and people were running laps around me. I then stripped it down and used the plastic pulleys to lower the rotating mass. I even dremelled a bunch of stock plastic parts to cut weight. I took off the original RR floating rear body post/pod and put a graphite shock tower kit. Just the titanium screws took off lots of weight too.

You want to trim the fat to blast out of turns and cut better corners. That's where most races are won. And whatever fat needs to stay on the car...slam it as low as possible.

As far as lowering the car. If you're running on a track that's bumpy, you're ride height might need to be a little high. Use a light weight oil, like 40 - 45wt all around. I modified orange Serpant springs to fit my shocks. The set up gives it a very neutral feel and it turns on a dime without breaking loose.

For foams, I usually run 40shore all around. Longer wear. Sometimes I'll go 37shore in the rear if the track manager is short on sugar water.

Let me know how it goes, hope this all helps.
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:03 AM   #11402
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: running one-way

Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Thanks for the tip! but do you think with 30,000 at the front will make the car loose traction easier? the level of traction at my track is low. i've ran 30,000 fronts and 10,000 rear on my VoneS and i had to put quite abit of toe in and negative camber at the rear to obtain good rear traction and this was with foams.
Thanks on this info Kewdawg
Sounds like your too thick/heavy in the rear(Remember: the more traction, the track has - The thicker the diff oil should be). Try 7,000 wt. or 5,000 wt. diff oil.
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:08 AM   #11403
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
guys my RR oversteers like crazy. After the sweeper if i let go off the gas it makes the turn good, but on the other turns it oversteers like crazy and cars go by me. Also if i brake the car understeers like crazy, any ideas?
How about giving us your set-up information, so we can help you figure it out?
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:16 AM   #11404
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kid I have plenty of aluminum pullies but i never put them on the car, because they are heavier.

Also I have an aluminum main shaft, aluminum middle shaft, aluminum 1st gear adapter, and aluminum wheel adapters, and titanium turnbuckles. Also i have lightweight aluminum motor mounts. Not one piece is eye candy, they are all functional. My car should weigh maybe 20-25 grams less than the stock one. I already took off the plastic transponder holder, it's weight and I don't need to use it now.

I'll work some more on taking the weight off, that is my current set up. As I said before I plan to change the glow plug and the clutch spring as soon as the motor breaks in, that should give me more punch.

Also I'm using 18/22 pinions instead of 16/20

what you think of my set up?
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:18 AM   #11405
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
How about giving us your set-up information, so we can help you figure it out?
I don't own a ride height gauge or a set up station, i want to know what my set up is too
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:40 AM   #11406
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c888_Yeah, that's the ticket. I have the aluminum shafts too. I'm kinda peeved about the front aluminum pulley shaft from 3racing for the RR Evo. Since the clip groves and the pulley pin holes are slightly offset from the RRs shaft, they took their original RR shaft and groved it and added another hole. That extra hole is to close to the original hole and in the final Main, it snapped. I finished the race with rear wheel drive only.

I'm still trying to get the hollow shaft from kyosho. I'm sure it'll be more reliable. I guess you never know unless you try it. But if you can learn from others...take it from me... don't use the 3racing alum.shaft for the RR Evo if it's just a makeover from the RR.

As far as your pinion choices. I'm using the new .8 gears. The stock ones that came with the evo conversion.

Does any one have a good gearing setup for a track with a 200ft straight with 13+ tight and a few high speed turns?

The first gear kicks but, but the top end seems a bit weak.
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:46 AM   #11407
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I actually have the 3racing main aluminum shaft, the middle shift is from another company. I have the RR evo gears, but they will just slow me down, 56, 61 isn't exactly fast unless you got a torquey motor with 45k+rpm

My kyosho shaft wouldn't come off, i broke the bearing and because of that I had to stick some crappy bearing in there so my car could work. In the near future i want to invest is some really good bearings, got any ideas?
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Old 07-29-2004, 10:54 AM   #11408
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I'm using Boca sealed bearings. Not the ceramic ones. I got them for a good deal from their booth at the Chicago Hobby Expo last yr. They work great after they're broken in. My car flamed out coming out of a turn in a qualifier, and I got it to coast about 40ft. to my pit guy. He was quite impressed with them. Ordered them the next day for his Reflex.
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:01 AM   #11409
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
c888_Yeah, that's the ticket. I have the aluminum shafts too. I'm kinda peeved about the front aluminum pulley shaft from 3racing for the RR Evo. Since the clip groves and the pulley pin holes are slightly offset from the RRs shaft, they took their original RR shaft and groved it and added another hole. That extra hole is to close to the original hole and in the final Main, it snapped. I finished the race with rear wheel drive only.

I'm still trying to get the hollow shaft from kyosho. I'm sure it'll be more reliable. I guess you never know unless you try it. But if you can learn from others...take it from me... don't use the 3racing alum.shaft for the RR Evo if it's just a makeover from the RR.

As far as your pinion choices. I'm using the new .8 gears. The stock ones that came with the evo conversion.

Does any one have a good gearing setup for a track with a 200ft straight with 13+ tight and a few high speed turns?
200 ft. is really long, for a straight. Try adjusting your two-speed, to shift later. If, that doesn't help, try dropping a tooth on the two speed spur gears.

The first gear kicks but, but the top end seems a bit weak.
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:04 AM   #11410
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Hey c888, I got a new RB engine and a couple of the guys who run it at my track say they run it at about 250 degrees strong in about 75-85 degree dry weather.

The same day, after it's break in, I was running it around 280+. Once it hit over 300. It's a bat outta hell, but I'm what you normally run yours at.

I richened it an 1/8 and it brought it down. But if I run half throttle for more than 10sec. it dies out. I'm still trying to learn engine tuning. Got any advice?
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:12 AM   #11411
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kewdawg! Dat's kew, man! Thanks for the tip.

Droppin a tooth on the spurs... does that raise or lower the gear ratio?

I've spent all season nailing the cars handling characteristics, and now that I got a new motor from the wifey, I want to figure out gearing.
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:13 AM   #11412
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
I don't own a ride height gauge or a set up station, i want to know what my set up is too
Well... that's the first thing. Get your car set-up. Start with the box set-up. Have someone set the car up or better yet, buy yourself some set-up tools and get to wrenchin'! You can't possible expect a car that's not properly set-up to work well at speeds of 40 - 60mph(not mention 20mhp thru a turn).
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:15 AM   #11413
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
kewdawg! Dat's kew, man! Thanks for the tip.

Droppin a tooth on the spurs... does that raise or lower the gear ratio?

I've spent all season nailing the cars handling characteristics, and now that I got a new motor from the wifey, I want to figure out gearing.
Lowers the ratio (more top-end). How about some detailed info. on how to make that spool, out of the one-way?
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Old 07-29-2004, 11:34 AM   #11414
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Default Re: Rody V12 5port

Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
Hey c888, I got a new RB engine and a couple of the guys who run it at my track say they run it at about 250 degrees strong in about 75-85 degree dry weather.

The same day, after it's break in, I was running it around 280+. Once it hit over 300. It's a bat outta hell, but I'm what you normally run yours at.

I richened it an 1/8 and it brought it down. But if I run half throttle for more than 10sec. it dies out. I'm still trying to learn engine tuning. Got any advice?
No two engines have the same optimal setting. Some engines run better at 230 degrees and other run better at 290 degrees. It's said, the optimum range for nitro engines, is between 220 and 260 degrees. I believe this is a "safe" range. Your engine may not proform properly at any temperature in that range. Your engine should make a nice ploom of smoke and not bog down (struggle to accelerate). You should not be running an engine that spitting a lot of fuel or flaming out regularly.
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Old 07-29-2004, 12:11 PM   #11415
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sorry kid, i'm not the one tuning my engine, i'm getting help on it by experts.
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