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Old 07-16-2004, 01:02 AM   #11326
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
I did just that! Maybe, i'll try the 3mm machine screws. Can you use the o-ring that comes with the aluminum diff, on the stock diff? If, so, what's the part number?
kewdawg,

If your going to use 3mm machine screws, make sure you drill out the holes to 2.5mm otherwise the plastic distorts and may make the leaking worse.

I don't think you can use that "O" ring with a standard diff and you shouldn't need to.
We use "Stag" non hardening gasket goo - that brown stuff. I found the oxygen safe silicone tends to disolve somewhat in the diff oil but the acetic cure stuff might me OK.

Also, don't overfill the diff - just covering the cross shafts is fine.

For the parking-lot track, start with the box set-up. It's pretty good.
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:36 AM   #11327
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Originally posted by roadrage
well im sure he wants to no when in america
actually if you could name the sites, that should do... hopefully ones that do international distribution... thanks
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:30 AM   #11328
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Quote:
Originally posted by boner
Joop: look at your manual on the optional part listed at the back, you can see list of the spring listed. Silver - soft, black - medium, gold - hard. Than there are other springs that are color coded, these spring are over lap the original 3 spring choices. They offer more fine tuning thru spring.

Doki: V1RR manual suggested 25teeth pulley (over drive) with 1 way.
BONER: i'm using the stock front differentials for my v-one r. is it advisable to use the 25T with the regular diff up front??? or is it better to just stick with the standard 27T pulley??? also, if i decide to use the 25T pulley, do i need a special belt for that or will the stock belt work??? thanks...

Last edited by doki_doki; 07-16-2004 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:43 AM   #11329
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
kewdawg,

If your going to use 3mm machine screws, make sure you drill out the holes to 2.5mm otherwise the plastic distorts and may make the leaking worse.

I don't think you can use that "O" ring with a standard diff and you shouldn't need to.
We use "Stag" non hardening gasket goo - that brown stuff. I found the oxygen safe silicone tends to disolve somewhat in the diff oil but the acetic cure stuff might me OK.

Also, don't overfill the diff - just covering the cross shafts is fine.

For the parking-lot track, start with the box set-up. It's pretty good.
Is there a brand name for the brown "gasket goo"? What foams would you recommend for the box set-up? Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:09 AM   #11330
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Quote:
Originally posted by kewdawg
Is there a brand name for the brown "gasket goo"? What foams would you recommend for the box set-up? Thanks for the info.
"Stag" is the brand name.
Permatex also makes one that is similar.

It's impossible to help with the foams without knowing your track and the conditions etc.
What do others generally run there?
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:13 AM   #11331
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hey pplz
is it true u can convert a v one s into a RR
thanks
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:14 AM   #11332
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hey
i also need the part no for the v one R clutch and V one RR clutch
thanks heaps
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:36 PM   #11333
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Default v-one s to v-one rr

Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey pplz
is it true u can convert a v one s into a RR
thanks
bro... it's not possible to convert a v-one s into an rr. what i know is that you can conver your v-one r into an rr. the v-one s has a totally different layout on the pulley system... also, the chassis is totally different from the v-one rr.
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:39 PM   #11334
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Default v-one s to v-one rr

Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey pplz
is it true u can convert a v one s into a RR
thanks
and also, the two-speed mechanism of the v-one s is totally different from the v-one rr...
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:51 PM   #11335
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
"Stag" is the brand name.
Permatex also makes one that is similar.

It's impossible to help with the foams without knowing your track and the conditions etc.
What do others generally run there?
As I mentioned in an earlier post: a large, smooth asphalt, parking lot track w/ medium traction/bite. No parking lines, either! I generally run (26mm) 42 or 40 shore up front and (30mm) 37 shore in the rear. Either TRC, FAST TIRES, HPI, and tried but thought they were too soft, the stock POWERS TIRES - 35 shore, front(26mm) / rear(30mm).
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:52 PM   #11336
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Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey
i also need the part no for the v one R clutch and V one RR clutch
thanks heaps
V1RR clutch: VZ090
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:58 PM   #11337
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Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey
i also need the part no for the v one R clutch and V one RR clutch
thanks heaps
Speaking of the clutch... Has anyone experienced the Centax clutch sticking and staying engaged? If, so, How do you remedy this problem? It was built per the manual but stays engaged during run, when off-throttle. I've disassembled and checked the internals with no sign of trouble, more than once.
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Old 07-16-2004, 03:09 PM   #11338
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it's possible you have the idle stop open too wide. Also check the spring retainer nut make sure it didn't backed out.
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Old 07-16-2004, 03:30 PM   #11339
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Quote:
Originally posted by boner
it's possible you have the idle stop open too wide. Also check the spring retainer nut make sure it didn't backed out.
Nope, checked them. The clutch is clearly locked up, to the point, where when sitting on the starter box and the brake is engaged, the engine shuts off. It seems to happen once the clutch heats up from the engine.
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Old 07-16-2004, 03:40 PM   #11340
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Are you guys doing anything different / extra, when you built the Centax clutch?
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